When in room ... and from Hotel Le Continental, Bordeaux.

Keys to the cities

A Bordeaux bolthole for $120 a night? A riverside retreat in Lisbon for the same? Here's our guide to some of Europe's best-value hotels and guesthouses this season.

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Italy, Rome, city skyline

Arrivederci, tourist traps

From eating with locals to bypassing the Colosseum crowds, Isobel King learns a thing or two about conquering Rome.

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Campo Cestino cemetery, Rome.

Beauty at death's door

Famous figures of history lie in one of the Eternal City's most remarkable cemeteries, writes Desmond O'Grady.

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Maestro ... head chef Gianfranco Vissani.

Hearts on a plate

Susan Chenery discovers the consuming passions of the restaurateurs at Casa Vissani and Il Falconiere.

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Irish budget airline Ryanair CEO Michael O'Leary

Flight test: Ryanair

Europe's most popular airline is also among its most hated. How does it measure up?

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Crowds at St Mark's Square.

In quiet contemplation

The crowds that pack the major museums are growing bigger all the time. Nick Trend finds out how to avoid them.

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