Maestro ... head chef Gianfranco Vissani.

Hearts on a plate

Susan Chenery discovers the consuming passions of the restaurateurs at Casa Vissani and Il Falconiere.

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Irish budget airline Ryanair CEO Michael O'Leary

Flight test: Ryanair

Europe's most popular airline is also among its most hated. How does it measure up?

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Crowds at St Mark's Square.

In quiet contemplation

The crowds that pack the major museums are growing bigger all the time. Nick Trend finds out how to avoid them.

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Gelato at Giolitti in Rome, Italy.

Food file: Rome

In a city of churches, Ute Junker finds plenty of culinary temples at which to worship.

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Happy trio ... the writer with her mother and husband at Burano.

And mother makes three

What happens when a seventysomething eschews escorted touring for an independent jaunt with family? Some might predict disaster. Dayle Green finds out.

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rome italy

Wild man of Rome

Desmond O'Grady views some of Caravaggio's finest paintings in the city where the artist worked and brawled.

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