This was published 2 years ago
Saffire Freycinet, Tasmania, review: Casual, exceptional luxury
By Jim Darby
The Freycinet Peninsula on Tasmania's east coast has the state's most-visited national park. Saffire blends easily into this landscape.Credit: George Apostolidis
THE PLACE
Entrances matter, particularly at a luxury lodge. Wander through the front doors of Saffire (more accurately be guided - you will be welcomed before you can even wander far from your car) and there, beyond a wall of glass, are the Hazards, the dinosaur's tail of a mountain range in the distance across the water. It's a view that rarely leaves you during your stay and it's one that's rarely ever the same; the sea might be moving this way or that and the pink-hued granite rock of the mountains is a subtle light show depending on the angle of the sun or moon and the cover of the clouds. The granite has bits of feldspar in it and it's the oxidation of the iron in this that gives the colour. Who ever said travel was not an education?
THE LOCATION
Room with a view - a Signature Suite at Saffire Freycinet.
The Freycinet Peninsula on Tasmania's east coast has the state's most-visited national park, with good reason. There's a sublime combination of beaches and bush; of rough seas and sheltered bays; of mountain peaks and trails to climb them. Saffire blends easily into this landscape, with buildings that look as though they've grown from the low coastal bush. Access is simple from Hobart or Launceston (just over two hours' drive from either airport, but there is also a helicopter-shuttle option and Saffire has a dedicated lounge at Hobart Airport).
THE SPACE
Back to the entrance, for it really is something, taking you through the lounge and as though on a jetty, to a viewing point up close to the windows and that massive landscape. Here you're under the highest part of the roof of the main building, shaped from the outside like a stingray. Below is the restaurant and another lounge. Before you know it you'll find yourself with a glass of Tasmanian sparkling wine or other preferred beverage in your hand.
THE ROOM
We're in a Signature Suite, with a private courtyard at the entrance and a split level inside to capture that Hazards-and-water view. The bathroom is vast, with a walk-in shower for two and a separate bath area that also catches the view. A small deck runs off the main room and there's a lounge area below the oversized king bed. There are tea and coffee making facilities, but pick up the phone and coffee will come if you wish. The mini bar is stocked with wine and spirits of your preference and it is effectively bottomless as these drinks and treats are included, so again, if you're running short, pick up the phone and it'll be there quick smart. There are two other grades of accommodation, the slightly smaller Luxury Suites and considerably larger Private Pavilions that come with a plunge pool.
THE FOOD
The food is exceptional - fine dining but without the fuss. Tasmanian-born executive chef Paddy Prenter leads a team of 12 chefs. The menu changes daily, accounting for the seasons and the available produce. For the kitchen, there's a big difference between high-end dining at a restaurant and at a luxury lodge, with more emphasis at the latter on catering to dietary requirements and individual preferences. "We don't say 'no' here and that's a challenge and it keeps the chefs on their toes, but that's why it's such a great place for chefs to work - it forces you to be creative," Prenter says.
He buys local and Tasmanian wherever possible. There's pork from Long Name Farm, oysters and mussels from nearby Freycinet Marine Farm and mushrooms from the Good Four Miles up the coast at Four Mile Creek. He'll go beyond to satisfy demand though - spanner crab from Fraser Island and prawns from Mooloolaba for example. Dinner is a la carte or a degustation menu or a combination if you wish. Lunch can be lighter. Burrata with onion and tomato jam, then a seafood mezze and John Dory for main. Breakfast is as you like it, but eggs, cold smoked ocean trout and crispy capers is a hard-to-beat combination. The wine list shows a lot of thought and shines with Tasmanian varieties; there's also an extensive list of "off-package" wines available for purchase.
STEPPING OUT
The rooms and shared areas are so good, motivation isn't high to step out at all; hence the only slight sigh of disappointment when the weather caused the cancellation of our Wineglass Bay cruise. Resort activities (most included, some at extra cost) range from the cruises to an outing with the beekeeper; donning waders and hitting the shallow waters for oysters fresh from the shell; kayaking and bird watching; guided walks to see Wineglass and other bays; and Connection to Country which reveals the local Indigenous past. There's also a spa onsite for health, beauty and wellness treatments. Guests can visit Tasmanian devils at an enclosure within the grounds where a small number of these remarkable marsupials are kept, part of a program that has Saffire supporting research into their wellbeing.
THE VERDICT
Is casual luxury a thing? Here the staff, the service, the rooms, the food and the wine are all delivered with such understated quality and in such a sophisticated but relaxed way, you can't help but feel rejuvenated. And did I mention the landscape and view?
ESSENTIALS
Suites from $2500 a night, all inclusive (meals, drinks and most activities). Saffire Freycinet, 2352 Coles Bay Road, Coles Bay, Tasmania, 7215. Phone: (03) 6256 7888, see saffire-freycinet.com.au
HIGHLIGHT
There are so many, but the combination here of food, wine and service is extraordinary.
LOWLIGHT
Leaving
Jim Darby was a guest of Saffire.
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