Savannah vs Charlestown: Southern belle sister city smackdown

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This was published 8 years ago

Savannah vs Charlestown: Southern belle sister city smackdown

By Julie Miller
Tombstones in the fog at historic Bonaventure Cemetery in Savannah, Georgia.

Tombstones in the fog at historic Bonaventure Cemetery in Savannah, Georgia.Credit: Alamy

Two grand dames sit side by side on America's south-east Atlantic coast: one is refined, graceful, a touch of class; the other is wild and precocious, the so-called "slutty little sister" who revels in her wayward reputation.

As different as they are in character, comparisons between the towns of Charleston in South Carolina and Savannah in Georgia are inevitable; both are exceptionally attractive, steeped in history and awash with Southern charm and hospitality. Located just 160 kilometres apart, they usually fall into the same travel itinerary, with visitors invariably forming an opinion about which town they prefer.

"I'm going back to Charleston, where there's still a little grace and civility left in the world," said Rhett Butler, after telling Scarlett O'Hara he didn't "give a damn" in Gone with the Wind. These qualities are still apparent in this balmy, harbourside city, and it's easy to be entranced by Charleston's skyline of steeples, wide cobblestone streets and pastel-hued houses nestled behind wrought-iron fences.

Gullah woman weaving sweetgrass baskets at the Historic Charleston City Market.

Gullah woman weaving sweetgrass baskets at the Historic Charleston City Market.Credit: Alamy

On a walking tour of its historic downtown, I learn about Charleston's genesis as a centre of religious tolerance,its growth due to the slave-based rice and cotton trade, and of its role in the Civil War, during which it was bombarded by Union forces for 587 days straight – the longest siege in American history.

Slipping into post-war oblivion ironically proved to be the city's long-term saviour: barely touched by economic and industrial progress in the late 19th century, Charleston preserved its residential character, an attribute that ultimately saw its reincarnation as a tourism hotspot that consistently rakes in awards such as "America's Best City", the "Top US Travel Destination" and "Friendliest City in the US".

One of Charleston's most recent incarnations is as a foodie's paradise, eschewing the South's penchant for fried comfort food in favour of an innovative, fresh and modern twist on Low Country cuisine. Locally sourced seafood features heavily on menus, while traditional dishes such as collard greens, roasted okra and grits are given a fresh interpretation by highly acclaimed young chefs.

I must admit it seems odd – and a little naughty – imbibing in public, but it certainly contributes to the rebellious spirit that forms an essential part of Savannah's soul.

For a snapshot of Charleston's bustling nightlife, I head to Upper King Street, where cool new restaurant/bars such as 492, Republic and The Macintosh sit alongside classic venues such as Halls Chop House, whose Sunday gospel brunch attracts an eclectic crowd.

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In terms of aesthetics and cuisine, there's no doubting that Charleston delivers in spades; but as soon as I drive into Savannah's leafy historic district, I fall hard and fast for her verdant, elegant beauty. Quite possibly the prettiest city I've ever seen, its cobblestone streets are linked by 22 town squares flanked by grand antebellum mansions, yards resplendent with blooming magnolias and sprawling live oaks dripping with Spanish moss.

Spared from destruction during the Civil War and presented as a Christmas gift to President Lincoln in 1864, Savannah is a time capsule of its glory days, a Gothic wonderland oozing tall tales and true from its passion-fuelled history. But as I wander past fountains and statues towards its pirate-themed port, it soon becomes apparent that Savannah is more than the sum of its past: this is very much a contemporary town, with a quirky edge and a vibrant arts scene, thanks largely to the presence of Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD).

The Mercer House is an example of traditional residential architecture in Savannah.

The Mercer House is an example of traditional residential architecture in Savannah.Credit: Alamy

The college's youthful, artistic sensibility filters through to a plethora of galleries, antique shops, designer boutiques and hip restaurants scattered throughout the historic district; I even discover an Aussie-style cafe called The Collins Quarter (owned by an ex-pat from Melbourne), serving smashed avo on toast and real flat whites – a menu transforming the way Savannah locals approach breakfast.

But it's Savannah's attitude towards stiffer beverages that really fuels its free-spirited vibe. This is one of just a handful of towns in the United States that allows drinking on the streets, with to-go cups encouraging visitors to "sip as you stroll".

"We like to stay hydrated in this town," a bartender tells me as she hands me a large plastic cup, filled to its salted brim with a potent margarita. I must admit it seems odd – and a little naughty – imbibing in public, but it certainly contributes to the rebellious spirit that forms an essential part of Savannah's soul.

Jepson Centre for the Arts.

Jepson Centre for the Arts.Credit: Alamy

"The first question people in Savannah ask you is, 'What would you like to drink?' Miss Harty, a character in Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil states. "Savannah's always been wet," she said, "even when the rest of Georgia was dry. During Prohibition, filling stations on Abercorn Street sold whiskey out of gas pumps!"

Simply called "the book" by locals, this bestseller written in 1994 by John Berendt is an intriguing true-crime murder story that celebrates Savannah's eccentricities. Made into a Hollywood movie starring John Cusack and Kevin Spacey in 1997, it has become the seminal travelogue for the city, with tourists flocking to sites featured in the dark and twisted tale.

With my own copy of "the book" in hand, I make a pilgrimage to Bonaventure Cemetery, scene of voodoo rituals and the original setting for the Bird Girl statue featured on the cover (now housed in the Jepson Centre for the Arts in Savannah). With its riverside setting, canopy of live oaks and ornate headstones, this must rate as one of the most beautiful graveyards in the world, a tranquil and evocative abode for otherworldly presences that linger here.

The Savannah College of Art and Design in Atlanta, Georgia.

The Savannah College of Art and Design in Atlanta, Georgia.Credit: Alamy

Then again, paranormal activity is nothing unusual in this town. Named America's Most Haunted City by the American Institute of Parapsychology, spooks are big business in Savannah, with ghost tours – ranging from gimmicky jaunts in a hearse to serious investigations – the most popular evening attraction for visitors.

Clutching a to-go cup of beer for dutch courage, I join a Blue Orb Uncensored Zombie Tour – a name referencing the Shadow People, Hags and Shape Shifters associated with voodoo culture of the Low Country. Most of the stories told during this two-hour walking tour, however, focus on Savannah's colonial past, with tales of murder and mayhem recounted in a fun and entertaining manner.

Under the canopy of massive oaks on Monterey Square, we pause outside the infamous Mercer-Williams house, where the flamboyant antiques dealer Jim Williams (played by Kevin Spacey in Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil) shot his assistant, Danny Hansford, after a lovers' tiff; while my spine tingles as our guide tells the story of restive spirits that inhabit 432 Abercorn, a crumbling mansion built on an ancient burial ground.

Our tour finishes on the dot of midnight; and as if on cue, a huge clap of thunder and dramatic sheet lightning illuminates nearby Colonial Park Cemetery – final resting place for about 9000 of Savannah's dearly departed, including Revolutionary War heroes and victims of murder, suicide and Yellow Fever … many of whom it's said were buried alive.

TRIP NOTES

MORE INFORMATION

travelsouthusa.org

GETTING THERE

United Airlines flies to Los Angeles and San Francisco from Sydney and Melbourne, with domestic transfers to Savannah/Hilton Head airport. See united.com.

GETTING AROUND

Charleston and Savannah are a comfortable two-hour drive apart. For car hire, see driveaway.com.au.

STAYING THERE

In Charleston, the Embassy Suites Historic District is located in a converted military college and boasts a convenient central location. See embassysuites3.hilton.com.

In Savannah, Azalea Inn is a charming B&B offering a superior breakfast and friendly service. See azaleainn.com.

Julie Miller was a guest of United Airlines, Travel South USA and DriveAway Holidays.

FIVE MORE MUST-SEE ATTRACTIONS

CHARLESTON CITY MARKET

This National Historic Landmark dating back to 1804 is an arcade of market stalls selling quirky handmade souvenirs such as sweetgrass baskets.

MAGNOLIA PLANTATION

Despite its dark history of slavery, this grand estate on the outskirts of Charleston features magnificent gardens, including a moody swamp boardwalk.

JEPSON CENTRE

This bright and airy modern art museum in Savannah houses the famous Bird Girl statue and ever-changing exhibitions of local and international art.

HILTON HEAD

This island on the southernmost tip of South Carolina is where the well-heeled go on holiday, with spiffy gated communities, 24 golf courses and beautiful white-sand beaches.

BEAUFORT

An exquisite historic coastal town halfway between Charleston and Savannah featuring magnificent antebellum houses.

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