Super domes . . . the rugged landscape of the Bungle Bungles.Credit: Tourism WA
I saw Jesus twice in the Kimberley. Once, his image appeared sculpted in a large termite mound; the second time he was a log (with a burnt piece at the top) standing on the side of a dusty red track at the northern end of the Bungle Bungle. Buddha was there too, along with Chinese pagodas and King Kong. Alas, no Fay Wray.
If you look hard enough in the Kimberley, you can see many things; there are more landscapes than there are hanging in the Louvre. The sculptures, courtesy of Mother Nature and the termites, take myriad shapes and the Aboriginal rock art stirs the emotions. It's hard to know which way to look in what must be one of the world's largest galleries of art.
The hardest thing to come to grips with, however, is the temperature in Broome. It's eight degrees when I leave Melbourne and mid-30s when I reach what seems to be the cheery g'day capital of the world. Even a girl riding a horse on the footpath outside the Cable Beach Club Resort offers a chirpy greeting.
The resort is the perfect oasis to acclimatise, in a luxury to which I am unaccustomed, before hitting the road in a four-wheel-drive at six the next morning. The road out of Broome is lined with a sea of spear and cane grasses, punctuated by bags of bones masquerading as cattle, wattles, gums and, of course, red dust. Driver-guide Ed suggests we're here at the right time. "The Kimberley is not the ideal place for a shaky relationship, coming into the wet season. The late-afternoon cloud build-up and the resultant humidity means everyone gets more than a bit crabby," he says.
Our timing is right. It's my first organised tour and I approach it with some trepidation but we are 17 disparate people in a comfortable four-wheel-drive and we get on famously.
The first sign of life comes at the Willare Roadhouse, near the Fitzroy River. It's a dusty place with a helicopter sitting near the fuel bowsers.
In a land where "strewth" is used without affectation, one of my life's great sightseeing and history lessons begins. Here are some highlights.
The hard cell
The first stop is the infamous prison boab tree, near Myall's bore and not far from Derby. The 1500-year-old tree - now fenced to deter even more idiots from carving initials or "I love mum" into it - is almost 15 metres around and was used in the late 1800s as an overnight holding cell for up to 12 Aboriginal prisoners on their way to trial in Derby.
Gorgeous gorges
The first is Windjana Gorge, a breathtaking 3.5-kilometre-long ravine flanked by sheer walls - some supporting vegetation with no apparent foothold - stained spectacularly red, yellow, orange and black by millions of years of weather extremes. The river gives way to sandy expanses, although it runs wildly during the big wet. There is still water enough to sustain healthy fish and freshwater crocodile populations.
South of Windjana Gorge is Tunnel Creek, a 750-metre-long cave often filled knee-deep with water, and for three years in the late 1800s, home to Pigeon, a fugitive Aboriginal wanted for shooting a policeman. Wading into the water, with just a torch, knowing there are freshwater crocs about and waves of bats above, heightens the experience among the stalactites.
It's an easy, green, satisfying walk into Bell Gorge. The satisfaction hits new heights when you see the water above the falls and beyond. This is the Kimberley wow factor plus one.
It's difficult to describe a gorge as intimate, but in the case of Galvans Gorge, it seems appropriate. Again, the walk in is easy and we're presented with a vista of a majestic boab tree standing watch over the gentle waterfall that keeps the gorge topped up.
Wandjina Aboriginal rock paintings near the water's edge are an emotional cultural bonus. At the King Edward River and surrounds, the landscape takes yet another form. The highly polished rocks near the falls are buffed like the finest mahogany and nearby are the Aboriginal Wandjina and Gwion rock art galleries.
On the road
Unlike the wildlife, which has stayed mostly out of sight (I see one dingo - and nothing from the coat of arms), four of us walk the historic Gibb River Road in the afternoon heat. (OK, it was just a 20-minute stroll back to camp.) It's a special moment. Earlier we crossed the Napier Range and a rock formation called Queen Victoria's Head. It looks just so, although Ed reckons "you can look into any number of rock formations and nine out of 10 look like Rolf Harris".
Heading for a fall
Walking to the Mitchell Falls is a mighty big challenge. For those so inclined there is an optional chopper ride. It's a three-hour stroll with the temperature soaring well into the 40s, stopping at Little Merten Falls, Big Merten Falls and Aboriginal rock art galleries. Swimming above the falls helps but all discomfort is forgotten when we're choppered out. Spectacular.
Bungle Bungles
Rising like a huge string of beehive domes from Purnululu National Park, the Bungles are World Heritage-listed but still cop a fearful beating during the wet season. Layers of black lichen and bright orange silica stripped of its outer protective covering run in almost straight lines across the range, explains Richie, the guide for this part of the trip, as he leads us through the maze of domes into the almost acoustically perfect surrounds of Cathedral Gorge. Cooling our heels in the chilled water at the end of the gorge prepares the feet for a tough walk into Echidna Chasm at the northern end of the Bungles. The chasm's walls, a palette of oranges and reds, get steeper, until they become almost arm's width.
Did I say tough? Seven of us drank 27 litres of water on the walk here and to Mitchell Falls. The flights with Alligator Airways in and out of the Bungles afford views of the enormous Lake Argyle, which holds many times the volume of Sydney Harbour; the not-quite-so-huge Argyle diamond mine; and the Carr Boyd Ranges, which have 600 waterfalls on the go during the wet. Oh, and flying over Bow River (a huge bonus for Cold Chisel fans) is impressive.
Camping out
I stay at four sites: Imintji Wilderness Camp, Marunbabidi Wilderness Camp, Ungolan Wilderness Lodge and Bungle Bungle Wilderness Lodge. Each takes the camping experience to a new level, with off-ground tents, comfortable beds with fresh linen, doonas and lighting. Tents at Ungolan, which has just had a $1 million upgrade, and Bungle Bungle have classy ensuites.
It's difficult to know what impresses most. Is it the company doing everything possible to be environmentally friendly and aware? Is it the friendliness and capability of guides and staff? Is it the comfort factor? Is it the food? Is it that the camps collect ring-pulls from cans and send them to the Broome hospital to be melted and used to make prosthetics?
Actually, it's all those things and more. Richie is a great example. After a day explaining the joys of the Bungle Bungles, he heads straight for the kitchen to whip up a sauce for the evening meal. He's a driver-guide, qualified chef, carpenter and, as they say in the Kimberley, a bloody good bloke.
There is, I believe, a common response from anyone who visits the Kimberley for the first time. On the way home, the return trip planning has already started. I know mine has. And as Jesus is out there, then there's every chance Fay Wray is, too.
FAST FACTS
Getting there
Virgin Blue flies to Broome via Perth for $360 ex-Sydney and $330 ex-Melbourne. Qantas flies via Perth for $461 ex-Sydney and $437 ex-Melbourne. (Fares are one way including tax.)
The author travelled on part of APT's 13-day Kimberley Complete four-wheel-drive tour for small groups (up to 20 people). The price is $5895, twin share, including all sightseeing, park fees, cruises, some meals, permits and accommodation. For more information, see kimberleywilderness.com.au.
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