Sermons on the mount

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This was published 11 years ago

Sermons on the mount

Natural high... Jeondeungsa in Incheon is thought to be the oldest temple in Korea.

Natural high... Jeondeungsa in Incheon is thought to be the oldest temple in Korea.Credit: Getty Images

Barbara Zitwer discovers Korean culture through a national temple-stay program.

I discovered Templestay in South Korea quite by accident. I was in Seoul on business and, jet-lagged on my first night, found myself watching the hotel television channel at 3am. I was mesmerised by an "infomercial" on something called Templestay, featuring a good-looking Western couple wandering around ancient temples in the mountains. The voice-over was particularly soothing. I thought "what's Templestay and how can I get there?"

It turns out Templestay was devised by the Korean Cultural Office as a way for foreigners coming to the 2002 FIFA World Cup to gain experience and knowledge of Korean culture and Buddhism. Programs are offered at more than 50 temples in various parts of the country, so whichever temple you visit, you will find similar programs: a four-hour program for a one-day visit; an overnight visit or a week-long stay, from about 46,000 won ($40) a night. Crucially, the temples also offer translators.

A Buddhist temple's drinking fountain and ladles.

A Buddhist temple's drinking fountain and ladles.Credit: Getty Images

I chose the Jeondeungsa Temple in Incheon, reputedly the oldest temple in Korea and located in a fortress said to have been built by three sons of the legendary founder of the first Korean kingdom of Gojoseon as a shrine to their ancestors. The 1700-year-old temple is just 90 minutes by car from Seoul, on Mount Jeongjoksan.

Jeondeungsa comprises 10 wooden buildings of various architectural styles, from the first dynasty to the middle of the Joseon dynasty. Colourful and perfectly preserved delicate carvings and 800-year-old paintings decorate each building. But though the temple does feel like a museum, it isn't just an ancient treasure - it houses a thriving, working Buddhist temple, complete with internet connection and a drink-vending machine.

I'm the only guest. Most temples provide uniforms for visitors, so I dutifully put on a large quilted pink vest and purple balloon-style temple pants. After dropping my bags in my traditional Korean-style room - with mattress on the heated floor, and parchment windows - I wander around the grounds with my camera. I'm appreciating the solitude when a man's voice calls out: "Would you like me to take your picture?" Behind me is a Korean who has come to pray at the temple.

Everything is so clean: from the mountain air to the spring water that flows from stone fountains. And this, combined with some vigorous hiking and meditation, contributes to the best night's sleep I have had since I was a child.

Each temple has a chanting ceremony at 4am, meditation during the day, a tea ceremony and conversation with a monk, community work, hiking and participation in evening prayers. You can do as much or as little as you like. Even though there is electricity, it's a good idea to leave communication devices turned off. The point of getting away, after all, is to get away.

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I'm determined to hear the early-morning service, and ask my translator to make sure I'm awake in time. I sit in the small, quiet temple and observe two monks bowing and chanting and three lay workers performing the 108-deep-bow ceremony that takes place after the service. I make an attempt myself but I'm only able to perform a few deep bows.

"I felt like a hippo trying to dance Swan Lake," I lament to the young translator sitting next to me. "I must be getting old."

"It is very difficult to do the deep bows; one must practise for many years," she assures me. "My knees still hurt me, too." I watched an elderly woman bow with such ease and rhythm and I realised there was hope for me.

Later, I'm invited to take tea with a monk, just the two of us and the translator. At one point, I get upset as I talk about my husband's successful liver transplant about 18 months before, and how stressful it had been. The monk doesn't miss a beat. Before hearing my translated words he changes the topic and says emphatically, "We're happy now." I'm wasting precious moments of the present. "Yes, of course!" I reply. "We are very happy now." I think of that conversation often and it helps me every day now I'm home.

There's another benefit of my temple stay. One of the temple rules is that you must eat everything on your plate and wash it up yourself. I have a constant battle to lose or maintain my weight, and to my delight the vegetarian temple food is not only sufficient but I lost 2.5 kilograms without thinking about or counting calories. I return from my Korean temple stay a happier, more relaxed and a slimmer version of my former self.

Telegraph

FAST FACTS

Getting there

Korean Air has a fare to Seoul from Sydney and Melbourne (about 11hr non-stop) for about $1370 low-season return including tax; see koreanair.com. Asiana Airlines flies non-stop from Sydney only with similar fares; see flyasiana.com. From Seoul's Sinchon bus terminal, take a bus to Jeondeungsa Temple on Ganghwa Island (1hr, 10min). Or hire a taxi for about 90,000 won ($78) from the centre of Seoul. South Korea has first- and second-class taxis. There is no real difference in comfort; second-class taxis are half the price.

Staying there

Temple stays cost about 46,000won-73,000won a night, including meals. You can visit any Buddhist monastery for free without staying. The temples provide bedding and uniforms but bring extra clothes, toiletries and hiking boots, especially if you visit in autumn or winter. Children are allowed and there are programs for families. See templestay.com.

Mihwangsa Temple is at the southern tip of South Korea and is almost 1300 years old. The Buddhist paintings date from 1342 and are hung outside the temple hall for outdoor ceremonies. The magnificent Dadohae Sea and the West Sea are visible from the gardens and the sunsets over the water make this temple a spectacular location.

Seonunsa: According to legend, the most famous calligraphers of the Joseon Dynasty painted some of their best illustrated books in this temple.

Golgulsa is an awe-inspiring temple, with its 3.6-metre stone Buddha sculptures dug into a 30-metre limestone cliff. The image of Buddha is seen from the highest spot on the rock face and the temple is in a cave.

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