Setouchi region, Japan, travel guide and things to do: Japan at its finest

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Setouchi region, Japan, travel guide and things to do: Japan at its finest

By Lucy Dayman
The Hill of Hope (Kosanji Museum), Onomichi.

The Hill of Hope (Kosanji Museum), Onomichi.

This is sponsored content for the Japan National Tourism Organization

After living in Japan for five years, and having the privilege of being able to travel for work, the question of "where in Japan should I visit," is one I hear a lot, but to answer it only gets more difficult over time.

There's one truism about life in Japan; the more you explore this deeply cultural, and staggeringly diverse country, the more you realise you don't know. That said, of course I do have some favourites, places that make excellent return destinations and those that surprise and delight first timers. So, if you're feeling adventurous, my advice is forget the crowded streets of Tokyo, the tourist traffic of Kyoto, and the bright lights of Osaka; the Setouchi Region is – in my humble opinion – Japan at its finest.

Located further west of Osaka, along the coast of the Seto Inland Sea, Setouchi is comprised of seven prefectures of Japan, seven mini-states essentially each with their own culture, attractions, history and charm. The name may sound familiar as it's also home to the nation's most internationally famous locations, the 'art islands' of Naoshima, Teshima, and Shodoshima, and the globally acclaimed modern art festival, the Setouchi Triennale. Spend a little time here, and you'll realise just why this region was added to National Geographic's 'cool list' and New York Times' best places to go.

On a recent trip to the area I had the challenging joy of trying to fit five days, and five very different destinations, all within Setouchi, into one feature, for you, which you're reading now. It's a challenge that both stretches one's limits as a writer while simultaneously not quite doing the region justice. That said, to not try is to ultimately fail, so let's go take a trek through some of the region's best known and unknown locations to get a loose overview of just what you're in for.

Onomichi: Where young entrepreneurship and traditionalism collide

I started in Onomichi, the starting point for the Shimanami Kaido, a spectacular, 70+ kilometre highway and cycling route hybrid road that connects mainland Japan to its neighbouring island of Shikoku via Imabari city in Ehime.

Having visited once before, I knew that the town lives up to its 'cool' reputation. Young entrepreneurial types have been trickling into the coastal town, setting up small businesses and trying projects that – to be frank – would be a financial gamble in a bigger city. But here, it's paying off. Made to order spectacle shops, ultra-niche select stores, and trendy upstarts cafes like Hibi Coffee and Hotel LOG, take up residence between the 25 temples that dot the hill leading up to Senkoji Park. An air of laid back cool and small-town sleepiness melts into the salty air of Onomichi, and it's intoxicating.

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The best way to see the area is to grab a rental bike - Shimanami Cycle is an easy choice - and get pedalling along the Shimanami Kaido. If you want something a little more upmarket, pop by the bike-centric U2 Hotel for a Giant-brand cycle and fuel up at the on-site restaurant and cafe. The route is easy to navigate, with blue strips along the road to guide you, and stop by amusement park-immersive sculpture museum hybrid Kosanji Temple, and the Scandinavian-cool Soil hostel and cafe, on Ikuchijima Island, beyond that I don't want to try and dictate too much of your journey because each rider finds their own charm on this very unique route.

Tomonoura: The inspiration behind Ghibli's Ponyo

Day two is a day trip to Tomonoura, a cozy port town with 4,000 people and quite possibly twice as many cats and – what I quickly came to realise – a strange but proud Wolverine love affair and the charm so strong it captured the imagination of Studio Ghibli head Hiyato Miyazaki. Pointing to a rather regular-looking house on a hill, my guide told me it was here at this very spot 'probably' that Miyazaki spawned 'Ponyo' (2008), a tale of the goldfish who escapes the ocean's grasp.

The town was also the backdrop for the aforementioned 2013 Hugh Jackman blockbuster, in which the town played the role of 'Nagasaki city,' as it turns out, Tomonoura is a more picturesque Nagasaki than the original.

Walking through the city centre – for lack of a better term – I can practically read this history of Tomonoura through its architecture. The streets are lined with charming wooden houses, some residences, some small businesses, cafes, and the occasional brewery slinging the proudly local "homeishu", an almost Chinese-style medicinal liquor made from a potent blend of shochu (distilled Japanese spirit) and 16 types of herbs. Said to promote longevity, it's surprisingly delicious and I've been told is best enjoyed with a little milk or yogurt.

Tomonoura is the type of place you can visit with no plan. Come with just a willingness to walk, fondness of cats, and quaint views, and you won't leave disappointed. One last tip, if you're in town when Fukuzenji Temple is open to the public, don't miss the chance to soak up the views of Bentenjima Island and Sensuijima Island from the temple's tatami mat-lined verandah. It's the most famous view in the city known for the best views. Enough said.

Manabeshima: Real island life, Japan style

When it comes to the Setouchi area, Manabeshima – population 300 or so – is the dark horse of the pack. It doesn't have the slick art facilities of Teshima, the culinary diversity of Shodoshima, the young upstarts of Onomichi or the Hollywood touch of Tomonura. It has a lot of 'not much,' no main attractions, except a junk-heap run by friendly cats and some pretty impressive but derelict buildings nestled between quaint fishing houses. But it's this lack of anything in particular that I think makes it so special.

From what I've seen since moving to Japan, sometimes travellers to Japan can be a little overindulged when it comes to attractions, 'must-dos, must-see, must eats' and the like, but to enjoy Japan is to just live in it. That's why an activity palate cleanser like Manabeshima does the trick. A 40-minute high speed, or 70-minute regular speed boat ride from Okayama prefecture, the island garnered some global attention after 2015 when French artist Florent Chavouet published a book about his summer on the island titled "Manabeshima Island Japan: One Island, Two Months, One Minicar, Sixty Crabs, Eighty Bites and Fifty Shots of Shochu."

Given the lack of 'things', it attracts creative types, like Manabe-san, who I met by chance on the island, holding a mini-press conference of sorts for the unveiling of a sculpture he created in collaboration with the island's three middle school students. Originally from Kyoto, Manabe-san previously taught at Kanazawa College of Art (Kanazawa Bijutsu Kōgei Daigaku). A man who shares no ancestry with the island, but yes, the same name and who fell in love with the island's charm and moved here in May last year to make art, teach art and he told me, "represent local culture and history."

Lunch at a place like this has to be seafood, and there's just one place to go – probably quite literally – Ryoka (漁火) lodge, a guest house, bar, restaurant hybrid run by the recently turned, 90-year-old ex-fisherman Yamashita-san and his wife. Bookable by phone reservation only (three days in advance), Ryoka serves up a grand multi-course rustic style degustation of sashimi, tempura, still squirming octopus, salt-baked fish, fish nanban-zuke, and oysters, and more, a feast that elsewhere would easily go for ¥15,000 ($180) per person, just ¥5,000 ($62), making it worth the journey alone.

Shodoshima: Olives, soy sauce, salt, and eclectic art collectors

If you want an insider's tip, here's mine: Shodoshima is in a prime position to be the next island hot spot for those folks who have done the main 'art islands' (Teshima and Naoshima and the like). The second-largest island on the Seto Inland Sea, and one of the Setouchi Triennale art festival venues, its oliver-friendly Mediterranean climate and clear passion for all things culinary, provide just another thread on the already rich tapestry of charms.

As a hiker, I feel a hunger in my legs and my soul as I look out onto Kankakei Gorge. The landscape of Shodoshima is incredibly diverse, thanks to the volcanic soil. Roughly three layers deep with a softness to it, the soil has sculpted geologically unique views, best admired from the Kankakei Gorge (accessible via ropeway), it's a destination often listed as one of Japan's "three most beautiful" valleys. Another popular viewpoint is Angel Road, where you can walk to the tiny Yoshima island at low tide, where according to local legend, your wish will come true if you cross holding hands with an important person.

It's the people though that made Shodoshima shine, from the friendly local taxi drivers, like the one I had who went out of her way to introduce me to her favourite soft-serve ice cream shop (I have a Japanese soft serve habit), and the makers at Yamaroku Shoyu (soy sauce), who on a whim will happily take time out of their busy day to personally tour you through their brewery. The latter is also featured in the 'Salt' episode of Netflix's hit food series "Salt, Fat, Acid Heat."

However, there's one man who deserves to be nominated, if not the mayor of Shodoshima, at least the island's official spokesperson, Jun Ishii, founder and owner of GEORGES gallery + KOHIRA café, which he built inside his grandparents' 90+-year-old home. Mr Ishii's soon to be unveiled (March 2022) collection of new works, situated in a soy sauce brewery-turned gallery, is a collection that literally has to be seen to be believed, but to whet your appetite, let's just say names like Takashi Murakami, Sam Francis, and Jasper Johns all take up residence here. A tip: plan a visit here asap, before it gets too big. That's not hyperbole.Teshima: Contemporary art, heartbeat collections and nature worshipWhat's somewhat ironic about this list of islands and port cities is the ones less known, the ones with seemingly fewer attractions, are the ones you feel most inspired to share. Telling folks about them seems like neat little secrets you want to 'gift' just the select few you know will appreciate. That said, let's talk about Teshima; it's the perhaps less famous sibling to Naoshima, but the most famous on this list, and an island with an art legacy worth boasting about.

Teshima sits between Naoshima and Shodoshima and is home to a selection of immersive art experiences showcasing both local and international creators. The island's centrepiece is The Teshima Art Museum, the creation of Tokyo-born architect Ryue Nishizawa; it's a shell-shaped dome submerged in the grassy hill-scape. To explain it too much would be like it's like trying to retell a comedian's perfectly timed joke and completely butchering the art. No phones allowed; put the devices away, empty your mind and cleanse your soul.

After, I take the 20 or so minute stroll down the hill to Les Archives du Coeur, the art-science experiment crafted by French artist Christian Boltanski. A collection of heartbeats, Les Archives du Coeur is an artwork that not only immerses the viewer but takes from them, offering guests the chance to contribute their own heartbeat to the collection, if you so desire, personally I'm happy to leave no trace when I die, so don't take up the offer.

A definite full day trip, the island also features other more traditional art galleries like Yokoo House, a collaboration between artist Tadanori Yokoo and architect Yuko Nagayama. However, if you can, grab a rental bike – available at the port – and go hunting for some of the island's more elusive delights, like the La forêt des murmures, and outdoor sculptures scattered throughout the compact landscape. It's a choose your own art adventure.

How to get to the Setouchi region

Setouchi's main transport hubs are Okayama, Hiroshima, and Kobe on Japan's main island Honshu, meaning that reaching there requires a little planning but you have a lot of options. There's a shinkansen (bullet train) line Between Osaka and Hiroshima, and Express trains run to Takamatsu from Okayama. Also, domestic airlines fly into Takamatsu from Tokyo's Narita, Haneda Airports as well as Naha in Okinawa. From Takamatsu, you can catch one of the multiple ferries that service Naoshima, Teshima, Shodoshima and the other major Setouchi art islands.

The writer travelled as a guest of the Japan National Tourism Organization.

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