Shanti Residence, Bali review: Retreat to serenity

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This was published 10 years ago

Shanti Residence, Bali review: Retreat to serenity

Pool at night at Shanti Residence, Bali.

Pool at night at Shanti Residence, Bali.

With unspoilt views of the turquoise sea and secluded, luxurious quarters, Isobel King finds Bali's Shanti Residence an ideal retreat for the weary soul.

The chattering ceased and a stunned silence descended as we stepped through the big wooden doors into the sanctuary of the Shanti Residence, a Balinese private villa sitting high above the Nusa Dua coastline. After the hot, traffic-choked drive down from Denpasar, it was like emerging onto the holodeck in Star Trek.

We filed through the covered walkways linking two large pavilions that had undoubtedly seen some spirited partying in their time. The stacking glass doors were folded back to take full advantage of lush terraced gardens, mature trees and a central infinity pool that melted into the ocean and horizon beyond.

One of the resident chefs in the kitchen at Shanti Residence, Bali.

One of the resident chefs in the kitchen at Shanti Residence, Bali.

Frangipani trees jutted through cut-outs in the pool decking, providing shade for the sun lounges strategically placed for the best views, dropping the odd fragrant petal into the pool for good measure.

The nearest neighbour here is a world away, with a valley of dense green between us. It was a sight to behold, set against a piercing blue sky and a stillness disturbed by the odd, lingering "wow". There was talk of the various celebrities who had stayed here with their families, and wealthy Asian businessmen who liked to whisk away their mistresses for a weekend of luxurious privacy. Partying, gentle seduction, lavish family holidays ... you didn't need a fertile imagination to picture all the scenes a place such as this would have played host to over the years. Not surprisingly, it's also a favourite for film crews.

The five-bedroom villa was built by Singapore-based property developer Kumar Manchharam as the kind of idyllic retreat he enjoys escaping to. Manchharam was our dinner host that night and as guests assembled for sunset drinks around the pool, waited on by beautifully attired villa staff, I could easily imagine the scene he was describing. For his 60th birthday, he'd flown in special guests from around the world for celebrations that lasted three days. An excerpt I later read in The Bali Times about the occasion, noted: "Endless entertainment came from [Indonesian] superband Marlyn and Friends suspended on a floating stage over the pool ... A three-tiered podium birthday cake with miniature Go-Go Girls on dancing poles helped blow-out the celebrations as fireworks flared and shot into the night skies unveiling a blazing number 60." I gather it was quite some shebang.

The whole retreat, shielded from prying eyes by sheer virtue of its seclusion, feels purpose-built for luxury getaways. Most of Manchharam's guests stayed locally, while a lucky handful experienced the five accommodation suites that fan out from the villa's central entertaining area.

A linked walkway takes you through to the main suite, Ambhara, which is the size of a city apartment and has panoramic ocean views and an expansive plunge pool.

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In the rear gardens, on the other side of the lounge and dining pavilions, are the remaining four suites, each with their own unique charm.

The junior suite, Aastha, is like a small house, with separate lounge, outside spa and day bed. On plumped-up cushions, you're elevated just enough to get a commanding view of the entire residence, gardens and ocean beyond. It was a good vantage point in the late afternoon from which to watch the villa staff prepare for the evening festivities, milling busily around, chatting and laughing with genuine joy. I'm guessing it must be a pretty nice place to work.

A separate building houses the garden suite, Abian, with its huge bathroom, walk-in wardrobe and private garden and pool. Upstairs are the two ocean rooms, Akansha and Ananta, with balconies to the ocean.

All of Shanti's living quarters are pretty special, although I imagine the upstairs rooms might be relegated to the kids in a family scenario. The other three suites are in a class of their own and you really couldn't pick between them.

Manchharam and his Balinese architect, Popo Danes, have created a completely self-contained world, which is obviously a big part of the allure for guests. There's a gym and spa, where you can book a massage; a massive "home theatre" room complete with a library of DVDs and games; and free wireless broadband throughout. There is nothing token about the pool: it's big enough to get in some serious laps, but modest enough for an intimate pool party. You have your own chef and butlers (12, no less), as well as a chauffeur.

If you do feel the need to venture out for a change of scenery there are plenty of high-brow options nearby, including the Grand Hyatt, Conrad, the Westin and the St Regis. Nusa Dua is five-star territory. Shanti is also within minutes of secluded Geger Beach.

Ours was a flying visit, but enough to experience the wonder of a truly beautiful place. They say Ubud is the spiritual heart of Bali, but a week at this villa would do wonders for my inner peace.

Who knew?

The world's most exclusive beach is St Tropez's Pampelonne Beach, home to 27 private beach clubs charging $40-$100 a day to sit on a sun lounge.

Trip notes

Where

The Shanti Residence is located at Jalan Gunung Payung, Banjar Sawangan, Nusa Dua, about a one-hour drive south of Bali's capital, Denpasar.

Getting there

Garuda Airlines flies daily from Melbourne and Sydney to Denpasar.

How much

Prices start from $415 a suite a night in low season (April 1-July 15; September 1-December 19; January 5, 2014- March 31). The entire Shanti Residence can be rented for $1880 a night in low season. Prices include daily breakfast, airport transfers and evening canapes. Other meals by arrangement. shantiresidencesandresorts.com/tsr.

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