By Clara Iaccarino
Lapping water, the clink of wine glasses and laughter all around leave Clara Iaccarino in a state of island bliss.
PHIL COLLINS must be able to see us. Either that or his timing is impeccable. As Collins sings Another Day in Paradise,
Jonathon the waiter slips around our waterfront table, topping up our glasses. There's a breeze blowing in from Havannah Bay so there's no bonfire tonight, just a handful of hurricane lanterns lighting the scene.
Beneath the table I slip off my sandals to feel the sand between my toes. We're just metres from the ocean, enjoying a signature dinner on the beach at The Havannah and Vanuatu is at her balmy and starlit best. In short, as Collins chimes, "it's just another day in paradise".
Even though he must travel more than 100 metres from the bar to refill our glasses, Jonathon is at our elbow before the last drop is ever drained. He's no longer wearing the over-sized hibiscus he had tucked behind his ear when he greeted us earlier this afternoon on the glass-bottomed jetty but his wall-to-wall grin has not subsided.
If you're looking for proof the Ni-Vanuatu are the happiest people on Earth, Jonathon is a worthy ambassador. In fact the entire staff of The Havannah, from the housekeepers to the bartenders and beaming receptionist, are "happy island" representatives. Gentle and smiling, the people of Vanuatu have a soothing air. Laughter echoes across the islands.
It is this light, airy manner that lulls you into a state of Vanuatu calm upon landing. That and, of course, the unavoidable pace of island time. Throughout the Pacific Islands, island time is a noted phenomenon and rather than be frustrated by the slower pace, it is one to embrace.
In Vanuatu, island time kicks in the minute we step from the Air Vanuatu staircase to the tune of Madonna's Holiday, giggling as our soundtrack synchronises. The tiny Port Vila airport is sleepy and quaint. As we await our connecting flight to Espiritu Santo, we ring a bell for service at the bar, noting how the loping folks in transit share a common and infectious languidness. When we clear immigration, customs and quarantine - two desks within metres of each other manned by the same officers - in Espiritu Santo, we emerge into a twilight glow.
The sun is setting over the palm trees and we make our way to the small port bound for Bokissa Private Island Resort.
The joy of arriving in paradise by night is discovering the real beauty as day breaks. On Bokissa Island, while the accommodation is a little outdated and motel style, each bungalow is just moments from the ocean's edge and when you're perched on white sand and aqua blue, there's no reason to spend too much time indoors.
With the stars sprinkling across the sky, I lie on my sunbed listening to the ocean lap and retreat. The sand glows bright white in the evening and the phosphorescence flickers. Before I can fall asleep I stumble into bed dreaming of an early morning swim.
I'm up and at 'em before 7am as I vowed, diving into the clear ocean even before the sun has made its way over to our side of the island.
If we didn't have a day of kayaking to conquer, it would be a difficult task to coax me from this idyllic scene. It's near impossible to imagine I packed the bikini I am wearing while sporting a thick, woollen scarf.
At Bokissa Private Island Resort, meals are included (drinks are additional) and, much like the accommodation, simplicity reigns.
But there are no complaints when we're dished up lobster mornay for dinner and fresh banana jam on homemade bread for breakfast.
After brekkie we jet off for a day on the Malo River where we kayak to the blue hole and end the day with a beach barbecue and a local Tusker beer. We're joined by a lovely couple from the Gold Coast who sum up the Bokissa experience most accurately dubbing it "three-star accommodation in a six-star location". A swift renovation would soon have Bokissa boosting its accommodation rating but what you can't change and wouldn't want to is the pristine island environment. Set on 175 acres of tropical rainforest, Bokissa is a private island owned by Australians Jan and Dave Cort.
There's an element of Castaway at play but at its heart Bokissa is a stripped-back paradise that engulfs you in its island spell.
Commonly recognised as a prime honeymoon destination, Vanuatu and its abundance of Australian tourism operators are actively attempting to broaden the stereotype.
Still very much a hot spot for romance, our Vanuatu nights were dotted with 'mooners and at Sunset Bungalows Resort in Port Vila we enjoyed a waterside dinner alongside a table of newly-weds, betrothed in the resort's outdoor chapel the day before.
We didn't have an opportunity to scuba dive but judging from the surface coral we glimpsed around Bokissa Island and off Hapi Tok Beach, it's easy to imagine a wealth of underwater jewels.
Vanuatu's capital Port Vila is an interesting hub caught somewhere between rapid development and the potholes and dirt roads of the "V factor" island time.
The harbour front is dotted with cafes, Mama's Markets for trinkets, clothing and hand-woven baskets and a bustling food market overflowing with coconuts and colourful island fruits.
The women rule the stalls in their bright prints, hiding their grins as they barter. Many travel long distances to sell their produce at the market and they won't return home until everything is sold.
But the best purchase you can make is from the supermarket where rich, brown Tanna Island Coffee is sold either ground or as raw beans. With an earthy tang, it's a lasting Vanuatu memento: simple, soothing and not entirely perfect.
The writer was a guest of Travel Representation Services and Air Vanuatu.
Trip notes
Getting there
Air Vanuatu flies from Sydney to Port Vila from $555 return and to Espiritu Santo from $637 return. See airvanuatu.com.
Staying there
Bokissa Private Island Resort An island oasis with basic accommodation and pristine waters. From $400 a bungalow a night, all meals included. bokissa.com.
The Havannah Vanuatu's newest and slickest five-star luxury resort. The rooms are modern and sleek and the beachside dining is a must-do. From $527 a villa a night. thehavannah.com.
Sunset Bungalows Resort Contemporary Melanesian-style lagoon-side bungalows. From $240 a bungalow a night.
With delicious restaurant Bungalow:Ate. sunsetbungalows.vu.
Moorings Hotel Port Vila's answer to affordable accommodation of the glampacker variety, complete with a pub-style bistro and a nightclub popular with the locals. From $120 a night. mooringsvanuatu.com.
Tranquillity Resort An island getaway with a basic eco-tourism heart. From $34 for dormitory accommodation or $112 for twin share a night. Meal package for breakfast, lunch and dinner is $48 per person. www.southpacdivecruise.com.vu.
More information
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