Six of the Best: Bangkok's nostalgia hotels

THE SIAM

Shanghai retro on the banks of the Chao Phraya. The Siam (pronounced See-ahm rather than Sigh-am) is the brainchild of Thai pop star-actor, Kriss Sukosol Clapp (whose family just happened to have a suitable plot of prime riverfront land). This svelte, new, 39-room retreat featuring Bangkok's most spacious suites was designed by the ever-inventive Bill Bensley, whose Thai-Chinese, period decor — black and white tiles, endless Oriental curios, even a diving helmet — is so eclectic you want to hang out in every area, including the bathrooms. The low-key Siam glam extends to several renovated, century-old Ayutthaya teak houses, with Jim Thomson provenance, that accommodate the Chon ("Spoon") restaurant plus a dress circle view of the great river. The aptly named Opium Spa offers an almost religious experience. Siam Suite from $400. See thesiamhotel.com.

CABOCHON HOTEL

There's more homage to wicked between-wars Shanghai at the serene and stylish Cabochon Hotel tucked away well down Soi 45 Sukhumvit. Designed by Taiwan's Eugene Yeh, it has just four suites and four studios. Period references abound: the wickerwork, teak flooring, light-switches and bedsteads should delight Sino-nostalgics, along with free Wi-Fi, cable vision and VoIP phones. Linger in the intimate Joy Luck Club's library-lounge-bar, then wander down the hall to the Thai Lao Yeh restaurant where the food philosophy is "authentic local", as is the decor, with tiffin carriers, abacuses and marble-top tables. Twin studio from $136. See cabochonhotel.com.

CHAKRABONGSE VILLAS

This Thai-Italianate pocket palace built by the river in 1908 by HRH Prince Chakrabongse echoes with family lore of romance and elopement. Bump into the owner, Narisa — the prince's granddaughter — and you might hear the details. She has turned her domain of tropical gardens and teak pavilions into a zone magically removed from the touristic mayhem of Maharat Road just outside. There are six suites, ranging from a bonsai 12 square metres to the Chinese Suite's generous 155 square metres. Narisa's informed Thai taste comes through in the themed decor of every room. With a sunset snifter in your hand, gaze across the river to Wat Arun temple and enjoy an aristocratic outlook. Superior room from $162. See chakrabongsevillas.com.

MANDARIN ORIENTAL

This iconic pile perched regally on the riverfront remains simply "The Oriental" to generations of travellers whether they have stayed here or not. It opened in 1876 and its heart is still the venerable Authors' Wing, where the ghosts of former literary guests such as Maugham, Coward, Conrad, Greene and Jung Chang type silently on in elaborate, named suites. Notwithstanding its own moniker, the 393-room Mandarin Oriental is too pukka to chase faux Orientalism, offering instead its own tradition of finesse, from the dress code-conscious lobby to the palmy gardens and riverfront dining. Afternoon tea in the lounge, cocktails and jazz in the Bamboo Bar and your butler looking after the details is what it's all about. Superior room from $400. See mandarinoriental/bangkok.

SHANGHAI MANSION HOTEL