ZUM MARTIN SEPP
The last stop on the #38 tram is the village of Grinzing, within the Wienerwald (Vienna Woods), which has been professionally picturesque since its foundation in the 11th century. Surrounded by tiny vineyards, its main street is lined with heurigers, typical Austrian restaurants including Zum Martin Sepp. Expect plenty of porky goodness and seasonal classics such as chanterelle goulash off the menu, or cruise the buffet, overflowing with smoked hams, creamy potato salads and pickled vegetables. The family grows its own grapes, and you're in Austria so order the Martin family's Gruner Veltliner to wash it all down. Cobenzlgasse 34, 1190 Vienna. See www.zummartinsepp.at
LEO'S WIENER WURSSTELSTAND
From sausage stand to schnitzel, these are the eats you can't miss in Vienna.Credit: Belinda Jackson
Vienna's first sausage stand, which opened in 1928, shows no sign of waning. The classic order is a thick sausage served with a slab of rye bread and hillocks of zingy horseradish cream and ketchup. The Big Mama is its allegedly legendary cheese krainer sausage. This being Austria, it also serves Jagermeister shots, spirits, wine and 13 different beers, as well as cigarettes to complete the party. You'll find the counter crowded with chancellors and chancers at any time of the night: the stand closes at 4am every morning, bar Mondays, when it closes at 2am. Doblinger Gurtel 2/Corner Nussdorfer Strasse, 1190 Vienna. See wuerstelstandleo.at
TRZESNIEWSKI
Sitting down to a plate of open sandwiches and a pfiff of Achterl beer (125ml) is just so Viennese, and Trzesniewski has been dishing it up for more than a century. The 24 sandwiches are striped with rich egg salad, herring, mushroom, salami or tuna: the recipes are secret, and at E1.20 each, are an economic grab-on-the-go option for busy locals. The simple fare is served in spartan, yet photoworthy surrounds, with speck mit ei (bacon and egg) the bestseller of its 4.5 million sandwiches sold annually. Polish cook Franciszek Trzesniewski started the sandwich bars in 1902 and there are now nine in the city. Drop in to the original at Dorotheergasse in the city's centre to test their modest motto: "unaussprechlich gut" – unpronounceably good. Dorotheergasse 1, 1010, Vienna. See speckmitei.at
MICHAELERPLATZ
Set on Vienna's dress circle, Michaelerplatz, you can't get more central than Cafe Griensteidl. Open from 8am till 11.30pm, it's got the obligatory wood panelling, aged waiters, white tablecloths and bistro chairs of a classic cafe. A noted haunt for writers and artists in bygone days, Griensteidl maintains its traditional Viennese cafe etiquette: no music, banquette seating and newspapers on boards. It also serves up the Austrian classic dish tafelspitz, braised veal served with horseradish and pureed apple. Where it bucks the trend is that it's a non-smoking cafe (Austria won't ban smoking inside cafes until mid-2017). Michaelerplatz 2, 1010 Vienna. See www.cafegriensteidl.at
DER MANN
Start the day like a local with an eye-pokingly strong black coffee and a kipferl, slathered with butter and marmalade. The forefather of the croissant, the classic Viennese breakfast pastry's crescent shape was a victory statement against one of the many Turkish incursions over the capital. (In 1683, the Turks were also said to have been ousted from their siege of Vienna with such haste, they their coffee pots on their camp stoves, thus creating another Viennese tradition). Vienna's streets are lined with good-smelling bakeries including Der Mann, which has been whipping up Viennese classics since 1860, including the dark and delicious sachertorte, a layered chocolate sponge cake separated with apricot jam. See dermann.at
FINKH
Vienna's inner-city sixth and seventh districts are at the vanguard of nouveau Austrian cuisine. The traditional beisl – the Viennese family diners once found on every street corner – was under threat of extinction, but many have been rescued by the younger tribes. An old warehouse that once supplied the Naschmarkt, Finkh is an industrial-chic restaurant heralding the revival of the beisl to appeal to Vienna's youthful population. The classic veal cutlet, Weiner schnitzel, sits alongside the beef goulash, apple strudel, as well as seasonal dishes. Less stodge, more style, the fresh, clean flavours should be accessorised with a wine spritzer using the Austrian red wine, Zweigelt. Esterhazygasse 12, 1060. See finkh.at
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