At least one thing has stayed the same in New Zealand's capital, writes Steve Meacham.
A summer evening in Wellington and I'm enjoying - if that's the word - a remarkable jog along the harbourfront. It's remarkable for several reasons: the views across the bay on one side, the towering hills that dominate New Zealand's capital city on the other and the contented smiles on the faces of my fellow runners.
But chiefly it's remarkable because I feel as if I am being blown backwards - and no one else seems bothered. I've heard of "windy Wellington", of course, but all day people have been looking at me aghast. "Windy?" a taxi driver says when I comment on the weather. "This isn't windy." So why are all the flags flapping so wildly? "Oh, this is just a slight breeze."
In the evening I visit one of the upmarket bars on the rejuvenated Queens Wharf. The bar is full of round-the-world yachtsmen, people who love a stiff breeze and what are they doing? Sheltering from the wind. Yet the outdoor tables are crowded with Wellingtonians who seem oblivious to the fact they're drinking in a gale.
Still, it's reassuring to know that at least one of the cliches about Wellington is true. Because a lot of the others - that Wellington is "boring", "bureaucratic" and "blinkered" - no longer hold water.
The truth is that although Australians tend to rank Wellington behind Auckland, Christchurch or even Queenstown as a New Zealand destination, the capital is a cosmopolitan, cultured and picturesque city just 3 1/2 hours from Sydney. Not only does it have enough attractions for those looking for a busy weekend break, it is a gateway to some of New Zealand's most beautiful scenery, including the vineyards of Wairarapa and Marlborough on either side of Cook Strait.
The Peter Jackson effect has had an impact, too. Locals refer to their town as "Wellywood", partly in jest and partly in pride, because of the movie boom that has contributed so much to the local economy since the success of The Lord of the Rings and King Kong. People have become blase about bumping into such stars as Jack Black, Adrien Brody and Naomi Watts, not to mention Anthony Hopkins, who was in town to shoot The World's Fastest Indian. And every taxi driver will point out the locations for the movies. The influx of film crews have helped accelerate Wellington's emergence as an international city.
So what to see? Where to go? Here's a simple guide:
Cafes and restaurants
You won't have been long in Wellington before someone tells you the city has more restaurants and cafes per head of population than Manhattan. It's a proud claim for a city that likes to think it is something of a cultural centre. You'll see cafes everywhere, many smart and chic, including Caffe L'affare on College Street and Toast on The Terrace.
Some still trade on their Lord of the Rings associations. The Chocolate Fish Cafe, at Scorching Bay, was one place you would have spotted movie stars enjoying a latte between shoots. Brody was a regular at Nikau Gallery Cafe in Civic Square.
As for more substantial fare, seafood, of course, is a local specialty.
I can recommend the upmarket Shed 5, a former woolstore built in 1888 and one of the oldest wharf stores in Lambton Harbour.
Otherwise, head for Courtenay Place, the centre of Wellington's night-life. You'll find a wide variety of different cuisines, notably Indian, Malaysian, Indonesian, Thai, Tex-Mex and Lebanese. Hummingbird, apparently, is regarded as one of the best restaurants in New Zealand.
Walks
Wellington is a hilly city and its downtown area is confined to a compact corridor between the harbour and the steep-rising Tinakori Hills.
That makes it easy to stroll between the highlights and you'll quickly get used to the odd street configuration, which reveals the historic battle between the shoreline and the sea.
Lambton Quay was a snaking seafront street full of wharves until an earthquake added a few hectares of foreshore. Certainly, you'll want to walk the harbour promenade that stretches from Customhouse Quay, past Frank Kitts Park and the massive bulk of Te Papa to Oriental Parade.
Harbour cruises
The Dominion Post Ferry takes passengers across the harbour from Queens Wharf to Eastbourne, home of Sir Ian McKellen during the shooting of Lord of the Rings.
Views
No visit to Wellington is complete without a trip in the cable car, an institution since 1902. My advice is to take the $1.60 fare to the top (the city terminus is in an arcade off Lambton Quay), then saunter down on foot, stopping at the Skyline Cafe, the Carter Observatory and the Botanic Garden. The view is breathtaking, but wear stout shoes - the descent is steep.
The best view of the city is from the summit of Mount Victoria, which divides Wellington in two. There are many ways to reach the top: by foot, by car, by bus and even by mountain bike. Take the trip early in your visit: it gives you an overview of the city's sometimes confusing geography.
Museums
The pride of New Zealand is Te Papa, the national museum that opened in 1998 on reclaimed wharf land. It's a monolithic construction on a prime piece of waterfront that is referred to as "Our Place". But one can't help wondering what a more visionary artist - a New Zealand version of Joern Utzon - could have done with the site. Still, if Te Papa looks unfriendly from the outside, it works magnificently on the inside. Even if you can spare only an hour, you should explore its treasures - particularly the collection of Maori and Pacific Island art and culture and the explanation of European migration.
Also worth visiting is the city's Museum of City and Sea, near Queens Wharf. You get to understand the impact the Wahine tragedy had on the city in 1968 when the inter-island ferry sank in sight of the city.
Shopping
Keen shoppers head for the Lambton Quarter, to the city's prestige department store, Kirkcaldie & Stains, and the boutique designer stores of the Old Bank Arcade and Chambers.
The Beehive
Just as Sydney has the Opera House and Canberra has Parliament House, so Wellington has the Beehive - a piece of architecture that has come to symbolise the city. Of course, the Beehive - home to the executive offices of the national parliament - has had many detractors since it opened in 1980. It was designed in 1969 by Sir Basil Spence (famous for his Coventry Cathedral) and critics dismiss it as a piece of 1960s functionalism. But it is distinctive and you can't help feeling Wellingtonians have come, grudgingly, to admire it.
Sport
Despite the wind, Wellingtonians love the outdoors. In-line skating is a passion and you can hire gear along the harbourfront. Windsurfing, canoeing and kayaking are also popular ways to exercise. Equipment can be hired near Queens Wharf. Fishing trips are easy to organise.
Pubs and bars
Much of the night-life revolves around Wellington's pubs. My favourite is Shed 22, the Wellington Brewing Company near Te Papa. It has a small viewing gallery where you can see the boutique beers being brewed. Others prefer The Malthouse, Bar Bodega, The Loaded Hog or One Red Dog - lively spots close to the action.
More stylish options include Red Square on Blair Street and Pravda in Lambton Quay. There is also Vivo Enoteca Cucina, an Italian wine bar on Edward Street and the Matterhorn, in Cuba Mall, is something of a Wellington institution.
Further information: Wellington Visitor Centre, 0011 64 4 802 4860 or www.wellingtonnz.com.
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