Sunday lunch: Brandy Creek, Drouin East

WHEN Rick Stockdale and Marie McDonald bought their 2.5-hectare property at Drouin East in the mid-1990s, they planned to convert it into a B&B. Perched on the side of a hill, it had blissful views across farmlands to the Baw Baw ranges.

They planted a few grapevines for effect — but their project never got off the ground. Instead, they bought almost 2 more hectares and became vignerons, planting tempranillo and pinot gris grapes.

Tempranillo seemed to suggest Spanish-style tapas so they began offering small dishes to accompany their wines. Today, their two-page tapas menu draws locals as well as appreciative diners from Melbourne, which is within an easy 75-minute drive.

Initially, Marie did the cooking but soon persuaded an Argentinian chef, Jose Castro, to join the team. They now specialise in Brazilian churrasco or barbecues, traditional Spanish paella and tapas. We are shown to a table under a market umbrella on "the lawn". It's a gorgeous autumn day and some 130 others have the same country escape notion — and are mostly seated under a covered pergola dripping with grapes.

There are 30-plus offerings, from provincial-style garlic bread ($5) with roasted garlic cloves to salt-grilled whole Australian prawns ($14.50), tender grilled calamari ($10), tasty meat croquettes with dijon mustard ($10), beer and saffron-battered barramundi ($11), warm pink lamb salad ($16) and (pictured) honey-roasted butternut pumpkin ($8).

Two tips: arrive early and save room for dessert — perhaps saffron-poached pear on mille-feuille with sweet cream ($11).

Reviewed by Tricia Welsh, who was hosted by Destination Gippsland.

Brandy Creek Wines and View Cafe, 570 Buln Buln Road, Drouin East, 5625 4498. Open Thursday-Saturday for breakfast, lunch and dinner from 10am until late; Sunday 10am-5pm. See brandycreekwines.com.au. Staying there: nearby options are Peartree Cottage, peartreecottage.com.au; Ripplebrook Cottages, ripplebrookcottages.com.au; and Springbank Bed & Breakfast, springbankbnb.com.au.