Sunday lunch: Dispensary Enoteca

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This was published 12 years ago

Sunday lunch: Dispensary Enoteca

Good things in small packages ... Dispensary Enoteca.

Good things in small packages ... Dispensary Enoteca.

BENDIGO'S lanes are alive and kicking and The Dispensary Enoteca is proof of this. Its home on Chancery Lane, just off Pall Mall, is like a transplanted slice of Melbourne and the Enoteca would give any big-city restaurant a run for its money.

Though surprisingly small (there's seating for 24 inside), the Enoteca packs in a lot, with high shelves full of wine, cookbooks and goodies. The menu is unexpectedly sophisticated, considering the casual feel of the restaurant and laneway tables.

Owner Tim Baxter had a real vision when he set up about two years ago in an old chemist shop and it has certainly paid off. It's deceptively quiet when we drop in but, as soon as our family of four orders, the place fills up with a cosmopolitan crowd.

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Despite the hundreds of beers, spirits and wines on the impressive drinks list, we keep it simple with a local bottle of Bress chardonnay 2008 ($38). We start by sharing some broad-bean falafels ($13.50). My wild barramundi with Moreton Bay bug ($28.90) is expertly chargrilled, lightly cooked through with velvety bug meat in the shell. For those who like their comfort food, the orecchiette with house-made pork and fennel sausage, caramelised onion and chilli ($24.50) is beautifully balanced. The children order the three Egyptian cheese pastries with tabouli, labne and pine nut couscous ($24.90), a tasty casual dish.

Inspired by the nostalgia for retro desserts with a spin, we share a smashed Anzac biscuit with guava granita ($12.50), which is at once crunchy and refreshing. Coffees ($3.50) are very good here, as is the chai latte ($4.50).

The Enoteca is perfect for homesick Melburnians or lucky locals who can enjoy good food and drinks without leaving home.

Reviewed by Mary O'Brien, who was a guest of Tourism Victoria.

The Dispensary Enoteca, 9 Chancery Lane, off Pall Mall, Bendigo, 5444 5885. Open: Mon 11am-4pm, Tue-Fri 11am-late, Sat 8am-late, Sun 8am-4pm. To stay: Bishopscourt B&B, see bishopscourt.com.au; Lynnevale Estate, see lynnevale.com.au; Balgownie House, see balgownieestate.com.au.

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