Sunday Lunch: Stillwater at Crittenden

THIRTY years ago when Garry and Margaret Crittenden offered simple antipasto platters to encourage people to linger longer while sampling their wines, little did they know the trend they were setting.

As one of the first vignerons on the now wine-rich Mornington Peninsula, they were not only viticultural pioneers but also paved the way for local produce to sing alongside the region's wines.

Today, with winery-restaurants more popular than picnics on the beach, Stillwater is one of the best on the peninsula. Leased to husband and wife Jacqui (front of house) and Zac Poulier (chef), it prides itself on sourcing as much free-range and regional produce as possible to match the Crittenden wines — plus an extended wine list that includes some interesting Italian and French wines.

Zac was personal chef to Russell Crowe for a number of years. He picked up on the tantalising flavours of Middle Eastern food in Morocco when catering for Crowe during the filming of Gladiator and then absorbed the spices of Mexico during the filming of Master and Commander: the Far Side of the World. He has also worked in Greece, the Cayman Islands and was executive sous chef at the Harvey Nichols cafe and the Oxo Tower in London.

But five years ago, the Pouliers decided to call Australia home again and injected their energies into this light-filled restaurant.

We order warm sourdough bread rolls with locally made Geppetto olive oil and home-made dukkah and check out the menu. On Sundays, there's a set price with a choice of two courses for $55 and three for $65. It's hard to go past the home-made terrine or twice-cooked pork belly with black pudding and apple and fennel salad for starters — perfect with a Crittenden pinot noir ($11, $48 a bottle).

Zac's 150-day grain-fed Angus steak is now a signature, along with his grilled duck breast.

Sunny Ridge strawberries drizzled with vincotto and peninsula honey and cardamom-scented yoghurt pannacotta desserts are tempting but we decide to share the outstanding vanilla creme brulee.

Reviewed by Tricia Welsh

Stillwater at Crittenden, 25 Harrisons Road, Dromana, 5981 9555. Open daily noon to 3.30pm, Friday-Saturday from 6pm. See stillwateratcrittenden.com.au. To stay: nearby options include Lakeside Villas at Crittenden Estate (lakesidevillas.com.au), Woodman Estate (woodmanestate.com) and Istania (istania.com).