Sunday lunch: The Rocks, Mornington

LAUNCHES depart on fishing expeditions, togged-up would-be Diver Dans duck and dive near the pier as yachts bob and seagulls call. This is the Mornington marina in summer, as seen from the seafood restaurant The Rocks, on the first floor of the Mornington Yacht Club.

We are lucky to secure a table in the more formal carpeted area by sliding windows that allow for sea breezes and maritime views without the buzz of the more casual outside covered wooden deck.

The mostly seafood menu does have a few offerings for vegetarians and carnivores but why would you when dining in such a beach location? Having said that, my husband can't resist the firm, fresh figs offered with imported bresaola, baby rocket, grissini and drizzled with balsamic, while I can't see past the barbecued Queenscliff calamari cooked in a pan with chorizo, bay mussels, olives and with a thick slice of bread to mop up the luscious tomato saffron sauce. Nor can I go past a local summery dry rosé´ from Port Phillip Estate ($9 a glass, $40 a bottle).

My husband opts for the house-special fish and door stopper-sized chips, which comes with a green salad. I fancy more flavours of the sea and order the hearty seafood mix (sic) grill that comprises a fillet of Atlantic salmon and bay trout, chompy prawns, marron, mussels, pippis and calamari, along with a Stonier chardonnay ($9.50 a glass, $48 a bottle).

Because it has become such a classic, we share a decadent, house-made golden Gaytime - caramel ice-cream coated in chocolate, honeycomb and coffee crunch.

If they weren't restumping the Mornington jetty, we could walk it off and perhaps buy more bay mussels to take home, which are sold straight from the fishing boat on weekends.

Reviewed by Tricia Welsh, who was hosted by Tourism Victoria.

The Rocks, Mornington Yacht Club, 1 Schnapper Point Drive, Mornington, 5973 5599. Open daily, 8am until late (closed on Sunday nights in winter). See therocksmornington.com.au. Melway 104 D9. To stay: nearby options include Briarswood B&B (briarswood.com.au); Mornington Bed and Breakfast (morningtonbandb.com.au); Lemontree Cottage (lemontreecottage.com).