Suva, Fiji, travel guide and things to do: Nine highlights

THE ONE HOTEL

There's no finer colonial hotel in all the Pacific. Built in 1914, The Grand Pacific Hotel looks out across Suva's harbour. Built just opposite Fiji's parliament building, this is where prime ministers stay, and royalty too. In fact, Queen Elizabeth has stayed here four times and you can stay in the suite she prefers, with its wide verandah looking out across Albert Park. See grandpacifichotel.com.fj

THE ONE RESTAURANT

Run by one of Fiji's best regarded chefs and housed in the old Governor's building in the middle of Suva, here you'll find some of the country's best experimental food. Chef Lance Seeto uses traditional Fijian and Fijian-Indian dishes and adds his own modern twist to them. Come and eat with the who's who of Suva. See kanufiji.com

THE ONE PARK

Take a 10 minute taxi ride out of Suva and hike among the rainforest at national heritage park, Colo-I-Suva Forest Park. There are two waterfalls to cool off in and seven kilometres of hiking tracks where you can see 14 different bird species. It's higher than Suva, so it's a good place to cool off – especially in the chilly waters of Waisila Falls. See visitfiji.com

THE ONE MUSEUM

Check out the most important collection of Fijian artefacts at the Fiji Museum, including archaeological collections dating back almost 4000 years, from evacuations organised by the museum. The centerpiece is a 13-metre-long double-hulled traditional canoe (drua), Ratu Finau. You can also see the rudder from the HMS Bounty, the ship involved in that most famous of mutinies. See fiji.travel

THE ONE MARKET

Suva, Fiji - Mar 24, 2017: View of people selling local produce at the grocery stores in Suva Market in Fiji xxSuva suva fiji One & Only ; text by Craig Tansley
cr: iStock (reuse permitted, no syndication) 

Photo: iStock

This is Fiji's most important market. The Suva Municipal Market is the beating heart of the city and is found right in its centre. It's noisy and festive, and you'll find every tropical fruit or vegetable anyone's ever grown in the Pacific. Buy a fresh pineapple juice, and take home some kava roots to impress your friends. They're open till 6pm. Be warned: don't bargain, the price is the price.

THE ONE FLOATING RESTAURANT

It actually is… the one… floating restaurant. Once Suva Harbour was home to a fleet of floating restaurants, now Tikos Seafood Restaurant is it. But you won't find fresher seafood in Fiji. Come aboard in time for a sunset over the bay, you'll sway with the wash of boats coming past as you sample local treats like fresh mud crab in coconut cream. The menu depends on what was caught that day. See experiencesuva.com

THE ONE TOUR

See the best of Suva on a day tour. Take a walking tour of the Fijian parliament, where debate is held in an open chamber, watched over by guards in traditional outfits. Then walk round the the English-style Thurston Gardens where Suva comes for craft markets and music festivals and to spend weekends and check out Suva's busy harbour and much more all in a day. See kayservices.org

THE ONE CAFE

Taste Fiji's best coffee and some of the country's most innovative delicacies at Bulaccino. Most ingredients come straight from the owner's organic farm – check out gluten-free breadfruit flour and South Pacific superfood, Nglai nuts, and drink gourmet coffee made from beans harvested in Vanuatu. Be sure to try kava-infused coffee and Niuccino, coffee made with local coconut milk. See bulaccino.com

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THE ONE GARDEN

Built on the site of the old town of Suva which was burned to the ground in 1843, the people of Suva go to Thurston Gardens to enjoy their city. Wander along its avenues through some of the South Pacific's most exotic endemic species, from critically endangered Fijian palms to floating lily gardens and food gardens, all showcasing Fiji's rich plant biodiversity. See suvacity.org

ONE MORE THING

Suva is one of the most cosmopolitan centres in the South Pacific. Home to almost a third of the population of Fiji, this is where you'll best observe Fiji's unique Melanesian-Indian fused culture up close. Wander streets of curry houses and sari shops, watch Bollywood movies at the local cinema and check out the striking Hindu temples where you can watch fire-walking festivals (at the Mariamma Temple in July and August).

The writer was a guest of Fiji Tourism.