Sweetness and light

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This was published 13 years ago

Sweetness and light

Patricia Maunder discovers the bounties of the Western Port Bay side of the Mornington Peninsula.

Cook Street, Flinders, epitomises the unhurried pace of the Mornington Peninsula's eastern side. Scattered along this wide main street are inviting cafes and shops, with homewares, gifts and fashion.

The magnificent lavender hedge outside La Petanque Living sets the scene for its French-inspired wares, while sweet-smelling bunches of roses for sale at Former Glory make pretty companions to the antiques and vintage reproductions.

It seems wrong to eat Mornington Peninsula Chocolates' jewel-like dainties - until I bite into them. The strawberry-and-cream flavoured one is especially delicious (see mpchocolates.com.au).

Antique shops abound on the peninsula's eastern side but Tyabb Packing House Antiques is the biggest. It's easy to get lost in this big shed of mostly Victorian-era treasures. There are also excellent book- and movie-memorabilia sections and an area that will make art deco aficionados sigh with delight (14 Mornington-Tyabb Road, Tyabb, see tyabbpackinghouseantiques.com.au).

Discover the region's maritime heritage at Cape Schanck's lighthouse, which has been guiding sailors every night since 1859. The interior's polished-wood panelling is a highlight but nothing tops the monumental crystal lens. Tours of the lighthouse and museum are $15 (end of Cape Schanck Road, see parkweb.vic.gov.au).

Mornington Peninsula National Park has splendid bushwalks. The sounds and sights of the sea are your companions along the track that hugs Bushrangers Bay, until you are upon it: a sandy beach with rumbling waves, basalt rock formations and rock pools. With basic fitness and comfortable shoes, the return walk from Cape Schanck lighthouse carpark is an easy two hours.

Nature lovers should also visit Moonlit Sanctuary, ideally for the night tour ($27) when the nocturnal animals come out. Daytime admission and tour is $25, or $13.80 admission only (550 Tyabb-Tooradin Road, Pearcedale, see pearcedale -conservation-park.com.au).

Cape Schanck Golf Resort is one of several golf courses in the area but for public access to quality facilities and spectacular vistas, this one is hard to beat. Many of the undulating greens overlook the sea; the 14th hole's view out to Bass Strait would fit right in at an expensive private course but anyone can play nine holes here for $31 (members), or 18 for $46 (see racv.com.au/resorts).

Among the handful of markets is Boneo's on the third Saturday of each month, where fresh local produce is a highlight (corner Boneo and Limestone roads, Boneo, 8am-noon).

The region's wineries are among the best places to eat. A few do dinner, including Veraison Restaurant at Bluestone Lane (269 Myers Road, 5989 7081, see veraisonrestaurant.com.au) and Salix at Willow Creek (166 Balnarring Road, 5989 7448, see willow-creek.com.au). These Merricks North vineyards serve up local seasonal fare with flair and tranquil views across the vines.

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If you only want to sample and buy wine, cellar doors include Stonier Estate, a top option for chardonnay and pinot noir (2 Thompsons Lane, Merricks, 5989 8300, see stoniers.com.au). Just outside their gate is Merricks General Store, a favourite with foodies seeking gourmet meals, produce and wine (3460 Frankston-Flinders Road, 5989 8088, see mgwinestore.com.au).

Somers General Store has also turned an old shop into a stylish epicurean destination. Simple, delicious meals (who knew porridge could taste so good) amid airy vintage decor and ocean views, plus provisions both gourmet and handy (2 The Boulevard, Somers, 5983 2070, see somersgeneralstore.com).

There are a few cafes along Flinders' main street that unite vintage charm and contemporary style but for refreshment into the night, try Flinders Hotel, a modern take on the town's easy-living attitude (corner Cook and Wood streets, 5989 0201, see flindershotel.com.au).

In an unlikely spot down the road from Balnarring's shops but Ciao Bella turns out some of the finest Italian thin-crust pizza around. It's best enjoyed on the deck beside the veggie patch with a glass of something good (2998 Frankston-Flinders Road, 5931 3098; see ciaobella pizza.com.au).

Visit the Mornington Peninsula Visitor Information Centre in Dromana, or see visitmorningtonpeninsula.org.

Patricia Maunder travelled courtesy of Tourism Victoria.

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