This was published 6 years ago
Cruising around Tahiti islands on board Windstar's four-masted Wind Spirit
From the air: Wind Spirit.
"Tahiti looks nice." Remember the TV ad for Cussons Imperial Leather soap starring a family lounging in bubble baths on their private jet? The dad says to the pilot, "Simon, Tahiti", and off they go to discover paradise on earth.
Arriving at Papeete late at night, after a long day's flying and hanging around at Auckland airport for four hours is not quite as glamorous but any traces of jet lag are slept off in our massive suite at Le Meridien Tahiti. It is always a little disconcerting to arrive at a new destination in the dark, but the view from our balcony next morning reveals terraced pools covered with water lilies, thatched overwater bungalows of travel-brochure fame and gently swaying palm trees.
Although we've read that Papeete, the capital of French Polynesia, has a good market, we're keen to board our ship and decide to do souvenir shopping when we're back on Tahiti. The ship is Windstar's four-masted Wind Spirit, an elegant, gleaming white vessel that makes your heart skip when you see it for the first time.
The island of Moorea in French Polynesia.
Boarding is a breeze – there are only 129 other passengers on this sailing so no queuing – and we meet most of them and the ship's officers at Captain Krasimir's reception on the first evening. It doesn't take long to explore Wind Spirit inside and out; expansive teak decks, traditional brass fittings and polished wooden panelling add to the shipshape ambience. The cabins are identical, apart from the Owner's Cabin – at 17.5 square metres they're not huge but they're chic and cleverly designed to make use of all the available space. If you buy a drinks package, the bar-fridge is restocked daily.
Wind Spirit slips out of Papeete at midnight, by which time my husband and I have bonded with our new cruising soulmates over cocktails at the pool bar and dinner at AmphorA, the attractive main dining room. At sunrise the ship is anchored off Moorea, a heart-shaped island surrounded by a wide, shallow lagoon – its soaring volcanic mountains and contrasting sapphire and turquoise waters make it everything you imagine a romantic South Seas island to be. It is said to be the inspiration for James Michener's mythical island Bali Hai – no wonder it is a favourite destination for honeymooners.
Talking of honeymooners, there are 10 couples celebrating their recent weddings onboard. They range in age from mid-20s to mid-40s and mostly hail from America, although there are passengers from 13 different countries. Jeffrey Jack, cruise director extraordinaire, tells me it's almost a shame that cruises in this beautiful region are marketed so heavily towards couples – "I can't think of anyone who wouldn't fall in love with it."
The pool deck on Wind Spirit. Credit: Roger Paperno
The ship is so comfortable and relaxing that you hardly want to leave it but shore excursions include hiking and cycling around the islands (there are bicycles on board), visits to pearl farms and traditional villages, scuba-diving, snorkelling, jet-skiing and kayaking. The onboard marina is stocked with equipment for watersports and floating mats are attached to the platform for on-water lolling on and swimming around.
Sailaway on Windstar's motor-sailing ships is a special event. The sails are unfurled to the sound of Vangelis' stirring music from 1492: Conquest of Paradise, and as we sail out of Moorea's Opunohu Bay the sun sets in a seductive, lingering display of fiery colours, and whales obligingly surface within photographing distance.
Although the sails aren't used on our cruise other than for decorative purposes, I am told they are completely functional when winds are favourable. You can visit the navigational bridge to discuss this and other nautical matters with the captain; stargazers are also invited to the bridge at night for informal Q&A sessions with the captain and officers.
The Wind Spirit sets sail.
At first light in Taha'a, several crew members decamp to Mahaea, a private motu (island) to set up spa treatments and yoga on the beach, a full bar and a superb barbecue lunch. All the watersports kit is ferried over before passengers board Zodiacs for the quick trip to the motu, where we spend several hours doing nothing very much – we're fully adjusted to tropical island time.
By the time we arrive at Bora Bora, the sky is overcast and threatening rain. We set off from the sleepy town of Vaitape on a small boat and head out to the reef for a memorable snorkelling adventure. On the way to the first "coral garden" our guide stops and points out a group of magnificent manta rays gliding beneath us. A few minutes later we're standing in the water hand-feeding stingrays, which the guide says have been coming here for 30 years.
I have a moment of anxiety – didn't Steve Irwin die while diving with stingrays? – but these friendly, rubbery creatures must have learned over the years not to attack their primary food source. Reef sharks swim past so close you could touch them and the water teems with colourful tropical fish. Note to self: buy a proper underwater camera, the cheapie I bought at the last minute was useless.
The AmphorA restaurant on Wind Spirit.
You can't go to Bora Bora and not visit Bloody Mary's. This rather touristy, sand-floored bar-restaurant has a star-studded history – since it was established by a Polish baron in 1979 it has attracted hundreds of famous actors, music legends and sporting greats. You can read a list of them on the wall of fame at the entrance. Bloody Mary's does an excellent seafood smorgasbord in the evenings and burgers, salads and sandwiches at lunchtime. Check out the tiki carvings in the tropical gardens and make a point of visiting the bathrooms – they are the last word in outdoor design.
The highlight of our second day in Bora Bora is a fabulous al fresco dinner on Moto Tapu, followed by a spectacular fire-dancing performance. The planning that goes into these events is impressive and until 3 o'clock it is touch-and-go because of the rain. As Jeffrey Jack says, it is not an option to stage a fire dance on board the ship.
We spend the last day of our cruise on a small-boat tour around Huahine Island. Our guide Maruia is larger than life with a decidedly salty sense of humour. She has our little group dancing, laughing and learning how to weave palm baskets; for lunch she makes poisson cru (a traditional marinated raw fish dish), which we eat at tables anchored in the sea.
Palm trees on the island of Moorea, Tahiti. Credit: iStock
As we sail back to the ship, Maruia and her crew of three serenade us with island songs. Perhaps they have done it hundreds of times for visitors like us, but those pure, soulful voices tug at our heartstrings. You don't need to be on your honeymoon to love these islands and their people – just a confirmed romantic.
FIVE MORE THINGS TO DO IN TAHITI
SHOP FOR PEARLS
Tahiti's famous "black" pearls come in a range of colours, sizes and shapes and most are produced in the Taumotu and Gambier Islands. They are sold at pearl farms and in showrooms in Tahiti, Bora Bora and Moorea; shop around and ask for a certificate of authenticity.
SEE MODERN ART
L'Atelier at Le Meridien Tahiti hosts exhibitions of contemporary works by local and international artists. As well as seeing paintings, sculptures, photography and more, you can meet the artists and join workshops. See lemeridientahiti.com
READ
Get into South Seas mode with these classic novels: Mutiny on the Bounty by Charles Nordhoff and James Norman Hall; Tales of the South Pacific, by James Michener; and The Moon and Sixpence, by W. Somerset Maugham.
LEARN TO SCUBA DIVE
Wind Spirit operates a program for first-time or uncertified scuba divers at The Aquarium in Moorea. This warm, shallow lagoon is an ideal place to learn and equipment is provided.
VISIT A MARAE
Head inland to see the Taputapuatea Marae on Raiatea, the biggest sacred site in French Polynesia. It dates back to at least AD1000 and, like the other maraes in the region, was an important ceremonial centre.
TRIP NOTES
MORE
FLY
Qantas flies daily to Auckland from Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne, and partner airline Air Tahiti Nui operates onward to Papeete on select days. See airtahitinui.com
CRUISE
Windstar's Wind Spirit sails seven-day round-trip cruises from Papeete to the Society Islands, plus 10-day round-trip cruises from Papeete that take in the Tuamotu Islands, year-round. Fares start from $3335 for a seven-day cruise and $5515 for a 10-day cruise. Phone Windstar's Australian representative Travel the World on 1300 918 411.
Sally Macmillan travelled as a guest of Windstar and Qantas/Air Tahiti Nui
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