This was published 7 years ago
Dark Mofo, Tasmania's winter festival: A walk on the dark side
By Paul Chai
The Bacchae.Credit: Pia Johnson
A forest suddenly growing in a hotel lobby, a pagan ritual with shots of beetroot and bull's blood and raw deer's heart, male dancers dressed in elk horns and little else. The 2015 version of the Dark Mofo Festival, from The Museum of Old and New Art (MoNA), meant that last winter in Tasmania was pretty hot.
The Dark Mofo events in Hobart – and for the first time extended to include Cradle Mountain and the surrounds – drew 276,000 visitors last June and the event has put the chilly island firmly on the winter travel map.
Last year was the first year that the event expanded well outside the walls of the Winter Feast in Salamanca and it took the festival atmosphere from the old Mercury Building to Macquarie Point, Botanical Gardens, Cradle Mountain and the length of the Derwent River.
Weather #4.Credit: Rosemary Laing
On Cradle Mountain, the two-night Wild At Heart feast was curated by Unconscious Collective and David Patman, and featured an indoor camping night at Cradle Mountain Hotel where the lobby was converted into a pop-up forest bar with taxidermied foxes and a log cabin serving warm negronis out of wooden cups. Melbourne artist Ash Keating had an exhibition that reflected the changing light of the local forest that took over eight rooms of the hotel.
The following night guests headed over to Peppers Cradle Mountain Lodge for a progressive dinner around various spaces in the lodge. The feast was created by British food artists Bompas and Parr and Tassie chef Ross O'Meara who hunted wild animals especially for the event.
While back in the capital plans for a 117-metre high Art Tower were unveiled for 2017 and Dark Park in Macquarie Point played host to the Fire Organ of harmonically tuned flame-throwers.
The Funeral Party.Credit: Remi Chauvin
This year things will be equally tumultuous with the overarching theme of a "Storm".
"There are a number of initiatives that we are very excited about this year, the central one being the collaboration with the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery [TMAG]," says Dark Mofo creative director Leigh Carmichael. "Deeply Tasmanian themes and ideas inspired directly by the exhibition Tempest are running right through the entire Dark Mofo experience. It's our belief that Tasmania cannot achieve its winter tourism potential without TMAG, so we are very pleased to partner with them on this upcoming exhibition."
Carmichael points to other highlights include an expanded Dark Park, lower entry fees to the Winter Feast, and a major exhibition named Asylum, to be held at Willow Court by internationally acclaimed artist Mike Parr.
Cult of Fire.Credit: Mona and Dark Mofo 2015
More importantly Dark Mofo has made people really think about Tasmania as a place to travel to in the colder months, for a full list of festival events go to darkmofo.net.au.
Dark Mofo for 2016 runs between June 10 and 21. See www.darkmofo.net.au.Tickets can to events can purchased online at www.shop.mona.net.au
TRIP NOTES
The Nude Solstice Swim.Credit: Mona/Rosie Hastie
MORE INFORMATION
Mona's southern facade viewed from Little Frying Pan Island, south of the museum.Credit: Remi Chauvin
GETTING THERE
Virgin Australia, Jetstar and Qantas or QantasLink fly direct to Launceston and Hobart from Sydney and Melbourne, while Tigerair flies from Melbourne to Hobart.
STAYING THERE
Experience the wilderness at Peppers Cradle Mountain Lodge, from $199 for a Pencil Pine cabin, 4038 Cradle Mountain Road, Cradle Mountain, www.cradlemountainlodge.com.au; or Cradle Mountain Hotel, 3718 Cradle Mountain Road, www.cradlemountainhotel.com.au, which has rooms from $149 over the winter. In Hobart try The Old Woolstore Apartment Hotel, 1 Macquarie Street, Hobart, doubles from $279, www.oldwoolstore.com.au.
Paul Chai was a guest of Tourism Tasmania.
FIVE WINTRY TASSIE ADVENTURES
HUNTING FOR TRUFFLES
Search for the culinary world's most prized ingredient, the Perigord truffle, at Cradle Country Farm in the north-west of the island. Head out on a truffle hunt with the aid of a trusty canine friend (no truffle pigs here) and then celebrate your success with a special truffle dining event. See www.cradlecountrycottages.com.au
SET OFF ON A WINTER WALK
All through the chilly months the Tasmanian Walking Company run hardcore walks around the Cradle Mountain Huts. This eight-day itinerary is for experienced walkers who can cope with elements that a Tassie winter can throw at them; snow, strong winds but also some of the stunning scenery. See www.cradlehuts.com.au/winter-walks
GO WEST AND RIDE THE RAILS
Explore the West Coast Wilderness Railway, an old mining railway taking you through some of the most spectacular countryside in the Apple Isle. See www.wcwr.com.au
HEAD TO MONA
Dark Mofo may be just for winter, but the Museum of Old and New Art in Hobart is for keeps. See the first major solo exhibition of Australian artist Cameron Robbins (until 29 August). See www.mona.net.au
GRAZE THE TRAIL
The Cradle to Coast Tasting Trail has you enjoying salmon, raspberries, chocolate, cheeses and wine as you travel through this region. See www.cradletocoasttastingtrail.com.au
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