Tea Rooms of Yarck, Alexandra review: Fine food and shelter

Jane Faulkner discovers a restored church a stone's throw from a long lunch.

Tell friends you're heading to Yarck for the weekend and they'll either be incredibly jealous, knowing an Italian feast is on the cards, or have no idea such a place exists. It does. Mostly this blink-and-you'll-miss-it town is a part of an extended farming community just outside Yea in north-east Victoria but for the past four years there's also been a gastronomic drawcard.

On weekends, city folk especially flock to this town for a seat at the much-lauded Tea Rooms of Yarck - recently awarded best country restaurant in the The Age Good Food Guide. Except for the distinctly Australian landscape of gum trees and too much native roadkill, it's easy to imagine you're in a noisy trattoria reminiscent of those dotted around Italy's countryside. No coincidence, really, as this is Sardinian-born Pietro Porcu's place (the other restaurant he co-owns is Da Noi in South Yarra). Tea Rooms is special, though. It is unencumbered by city demands, so no need to rush. Dining here is leisurely, relaxed, satisfying and occasionally boozy, so a place to sleep nearby is advised.

And that is the problem. A designated driver is essential, even if you manage to find accommodation in Yea or elsewhere. So the owners of the Tea Room bought a property across the road comprising two small identical weatherboard buildings, a former church and its hall. Hence its accommodation moniker, the Churches.

Opened just two months ago, each is similar in configuration, self-contained with an open plan and caters for couples or the lone traveller. Both have been renovated with a modern sensibility so they are uncluttered, functional and comfortable.

The option of staying two nights is perfect to make the most of what the trattoria has to offer, starting with sensational thin-crust pizza and a glass of chianti for Friday dinner.

On my arrival late that afternoon, my digs are already warm thanks to the double-sided faux-log gas fire - while in warmer weather, the welcome would be swirling ceiling fans and airconditioning. There's a long table with a pew for seating and a small sitting area in front of the fire.

The ensemble bed is firm and comfortable with all the promise of a good night's sleep. If you are a light sleeper, the only downside is the traffic, even if it is infrequent. The Churches is right on the Maroondah Highway so it can be a bit noisy; take earplugs. While there's a separate, neat bathroom with basics from soap to hairdryer, sitting adjacent is a deep, claw-footed bath. It's in full view of the bed, next to the open fire, so you do have to be rather fond of or used to your companion.

There's a radio-DVD player but bring some music as the few options are so-so. There is also a television, which didn't pick up any channels, although it plays DVDs. Again, BYO. One quibble: being an avid reader, stronger lighting would be welcomed.