Rivers are a pleasure as they burble through the countryside, but there's something special about rivers when they flow through cities. It's the presence of rivers, after all, that gave birth to many great cities, feeding their transport and trade, providing drinking and washing water and – more lately – much needed recreational space.
Cities are also the perfect navigational pointer for travellers, inviting us to float downstream, stroll their riverbanks, and admire urban vistas and reflections. Practically every city has its river, though some are remarkably ignored, others cluttered with roads, some abandoned to neglect and rusting warehouses. Here, though, are some destinations where river and city provide the perfect combination.
DOURO RIVER, PORTO, PORTUGAL
THE CITY Porto's jaunty old town clings to a rocky gorge above the mouth of the Douro, and crams in churches, guildhalls and baroque chapels opulent with pink-and-gold decoration. Old ladies wrestle with washing in back streets and chirp over tomatoes in busy markets, or water geraniums in blue-tiled patios where husbands doze and paint peels. Down at the riverfront, the young gossip in cafes in the newer part of town, which has got its groove back in recent years.
DOWN BY THE RIVER Across an Eiffel-designed iron bridge, Vila Nova de Gaia is noted for wine lodges and is the boarding point for river cruises through the vineyards and gorges of northern Portugal.
CRUISE IT Evergreen Tours' eight-day "Secrets of the Douro River" cruises sails round trip from Porto. See evergreentours.com.
MORE visitporto.travel.
See: Why the Douro is the world's most beautiful river
VOLGA RIVER, YAROSLAVL, RUSSIA
THE CITY Sitting on a bluff above the meeting of the Volga and Kotorosi rivers some 150 kilometres north-east of Moscow, Yaroslavl is one of Russia's oldest and most elegant provincial cities, whose former trading wealth is demonstrated by the 170 churches looming on street corners. Its chief attractions are the 16th-century Church of Elijah the Prophet, covered in glorious icons and blue-green frescoes; and Yaroslavl's always-bustling covered market, busy with babushkas selling cheeses, pickles and sausages.
DOWN BY THE RIVER This is a regular port call on river cruises between Moscow and St Petersburg. The city's cathedral terraces in particular have sweeping river views.
CRUISE IT Abercrombie & Kent's 12-day "Waterways of the Czars" itinerary sails between Moscow and St Petersburg via Yaroslavl. See abercrombiekent.com.au.
MORE visitrussia.org.uk.
DANUBE RIVER, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY
THE CITY This urban river provides a paradox: busy roads line its banks, blocking river access and leaving few peaceful places to walk. Yet the Hungarian capital still manages one of the world's most fabulous river-scapes, best viewed from above in hilly Buda. From here the city unfolds like the set of a light opera, all neo-Gothic turrets, spires and battlemented hillsides, knitted together across the Danube by elegant iron bridges guarded by stone lions.
DOWN BY RIVER There are great views from Buda's park benches and the terraces of St Stephen's Cathedral and former royal palace. Below the palace, newly restored garden terraces make for a scenic wander.
CRUISE IT Scenic's eight-day "Iconic Danube" cruise sails between Passau and Budapest. See scenictours.com.au.
MORE budapest.com.
MISSISSIPPI RIVER, NEW ORLEANS, US
THE CITY A rich blend of cultures makes this city fascinating: French and Spanish architecture in the lovely Garden District, African voodoo beliefs, Caribbean cuisine, and contemporary American good times along Bourbon Street, the city's notorious party strip that gives this the most lively nightlife of any river port. The town's jazz heritage alone makes it worth a visit. Music oozes from busker-filled streets, and blues bars will soon have your toes tapping.
DOWN BY THE RIVER The historic parts of town lie along the muddy, steamy Mississippi, where container and cruise ships alike sail off into the American heartland.
CRUISE IT American Cruise Lines' 22-day "Complete Mississippi" cruise travels between New Orleans and St Paul. See americancruiselines.com.
See also: Travelling the US on board river royalty
GANGES RIVER, VARANASI, INDIA
THE CITY This ancient city of riverside temples and narrow alleyways dense with workshops, stores and teahouses provides perhaps the world's best people-watching opportunity as religious devotees visit to meditate – and die – by the sacred Ganges. The distinctly unspiritual shopping is also fantastic: Varanasi is known for its gold-thread silk, musical instruments, sandalwood and marble figurines.
DOWN BY THE RIVER Take to a boat on the Ganges at Dasashwamadh Ghat to view the great curve of temples and marvellous to-ing and fro-ing of water traffic. Bodies are cremated, sadhus chant and women in bright saris pack the water-lapped steps of innumerable ghats.
CRUISE IT Assam-Bengal Navigation Company's eight-day "City of Light" cruise runs from Patna to Varanasi. See assambengalnavigation.com.
MORE up-tourism.com.
GARONNE RIVER, BORDEAUX, FRANCE
THE CITY It's a big call, but Bordeaux might be the most beautiful riverside town in Europe beyond its capital cities, and certainly offers the most gorgeous of moorings if you're on a river cruise. The whole city provides abundant French elegance, from sedate parks to cafe-filled squares, saint-decorated churches to medieval districts such as St Michel and Chatrons. A highlight is Place de la Bourse, a grand square fronting the river and splashed by fountains.
DOWN BY THE RIVER The centre of town is lined by kilometres of flower-studded promenades, overlooked by sumptuous 18th-century facades that gradually give way to more contemporary architecture.
CRUISE IT Viking River Cruises' eight-day "Chateaux, Rivers and Wine" cruise sails round trip from Bordeaux. See vikingcruises.com.au.
See also: Why Bordeaux is the wine capital of the world
RHINE RIVER, MAINZ, GERMANY
THE CITY Mainz is a delight to explore on foot: its narrow alleys are dotted with fountains and murals and its cathedral features wonderful Romanesque stonework. The surrounding modern town is great too for shops, restaurants and wine bars where you can sample the region's white wines. The highlight is the Gutenberg Museum, devoted to the invention of the printing press and featuring a working press and superb copies of illustrated Bibles and other material printed on parchment.
DOWN BY THE RIVER The city's leafy riverside promenades have fine views across to the tributary Main River, which swells the Rhine's waters.
CRUISE IT APT's 11-day "Enchanting Rhine" cruise sails from Basel to Paris via Mainz. See aptouring.com.au
MORE touristik-mainz.de
MAIN RIVER, FRANKFURT, GERMANY
THE CITY Talking of the Main, few modern cities have a more attractive river setting than Frankfurt, a lately much improved, cosmopolitan destination noted for dining, nightclubs and excellent museums. The old town sits back from the river, but the recently developed cultural precinct sits right on the Main's south bank, unveiling a succession of museums with fabulous contemporary architecture and contents that range from ancient statues to Impressionist paintings and movie memorabilia.
DOWN BY THE RIVER Riverside Sachsenhausen district features popular summer taverns where you can tuck into local favourites such as boiled beef in green sauce, accompanied by apple cider.
CRUISE IT Avalon Waterways' eight-day "Christmas in the Heart of Germany" cruise runs between Frankfurt and Prague. See avalonwaterways.com.au.
MORE frankfurt-tourismus.de.
NILE RIVER, ASWAN, EGYPT
THE CITY Aswan can be as raucous and hot as any Egyptian city, though you might relish its street markets, filled with salted fish, carpets and cotton. The city shines along the river, however, which has tranquillity, cooling breezes and fine promenades. The Nile narrows here, making Aswan the final stop for cruises, and gurgles through huge red boulders and sand islands that make for lovely exploration by felucca (traditional sailboat).
DOWN BY THE RIVER Upstream, the ancient ruins of Philae stand on a river island where herons strut, offering picturesque reflections of hieroglyphic-painted columns. Volcanic outcrops dot water that glints like a blue jewel in the desert.
CRUISE IT Sanctuary Retreats' three-day Nile River cruise runs between Aswan and Luxor. See sanctuaryretreats.com.
MORE egypt.travel.
CUMBERLAND RIVER, NASHVILLE, US
THE CITY Several gentle bends of the Cumberland River defined Nashville's creation and expansion, such as riverside Germantown, settled by 19th-century immigrants and jammed with historic buildings now being restored. On the other side of the river, once rundown but now newly hip East Nashville is making a name for restaurants and boutiques. In fact, this is a boomtown river city, with a reputation not just for country (and more lately rock) music but an emerging southern food scene.
DOWN BY THE RIVER From Riverfront Park a greenway leads along the Cumberland, providing fine views on occasion, though occasionally veering away from the riverside.
CRUISE IT American Queen Steamboat Company's nine-day "Music of America" cruise sails from Nashville to Memphis. See americanqueensteamboatcompany.com.
MORE visitmusiccity.com.
See also: Video: 36 hours in Nashville
VLTAVA RIVER, PRAGUE, CZECH REPUBLIC
THE CITY The Vltava divides the Czech capital's old town in two: twisted Gothic spires and medieval alleys on one side, baroque, pastel-hued avenues and hilltop castle on the other. Fourteenth-century Charles Bridge links the two, lined by statues of saints. From the middle of the river, views on either side are a fairy-tale fantasy, accompanied by the serenades of bridge-haunting buskers.
DOWN BY THE RIVER A magnificent view over the river unfolds from castle terraces on the hillside above. To get even higher, squeeze your way up the adjacent cathedral tower and peer past gargoyles at a thousand years of history below.
CRUISE IT Amras Cruises' 10-day "Fascinating Danube & Prague" itinerary runs between Prague and Budapest. See amrascruises.com.au.
MORE prague.eu.
ST LAWRENCE RIVER, QUEBEC CITY, CANADA
THE CITY Quebec City has oodles of history and charm: inspect mighty fortifications, old churches and pretty squares; Rue du Tresor is colourful with street-vendor paintings. The waterside lower town has cafes serving mussels with frites, a farmers' market and the pedestrian Rue du Petit-Champlain, the oldest commercial street in North America.
DOWN BY THE RIVER Linger on Dufferin Terrace at sunset. Seagulls perched on its lampposts know it's the best view in town: you'll be able to spot river ships over a tumble of chimneypots and wide sweep of river, clamped between the Appalachian foothills and mighty Laurentian Mountains.
CRUISE IT Viking Ocean Cruises' 13-day "Eastern Seaboard Explorer" sails between Montreal and New York via Quebec City. See vikingcruises.com.au.
MORE quebecregion.com.
RHONE AND SAONE RIVERS, LYON, FRANCE
THE CITY Wedged between the confluence of two rivers, Lyon isn't just the gastronomic capital of France but a lovely city that encourages loitering in its distinctive neighbourhoods, green spaces, food markets and cafe-filled squares. The city is capped by a basilica and Roman ruins, while below lie magnificent Gothic- and Renaissance-era buildings, covered passageways and several top museums.
DOWN BY THE RIVER The Presqu'Ile or "Almost Island" formed by its rivers provides a grand 19th-century quarter of interesting shopping and good restaurants, plus a startling new district of cutting-edge architecture in lurid colours; the new Musee des Confluences is excellent.
CRUISE IT Uniworld's eight-day "Burgundy & Provence" cruise runs between Avignon and Lyon. See uniworldcruises.com.au.
MORE lyon-france.com.
FUN ACTIVITIES TO BANK ON
You don't have to take a river cruise or walk promenades to appreciate great urban rivers. Here are five surprising ways to get active on some of the world's most attractive urban rivers.
SURFING IN MUNICH
Right in Munich's downtown English Garden, a continuous and very chilly wave of water rolls down the Eisbach Channel off the Isar River. Don a wetsuit and get ready to ride, but only if you're an experienced surfer, since rocks, limited space and a strong current are all challenges. See muenchen.de.
KAYAKING IN NEW YORK
At Pier 26 on the Hudson River you can borrow a free kayak for a quick paddle, or (if you're a competent kayaker) join a weekend eight-kilometre guided river trip. You'll get great views of the cityscape at a different angle from the harbour, and enjoy the river, impressively cleaned up over recent years. See downtownboathouse.org.
FLOATING THROUGH BASEL
This lovely Swiss city provides splendid panoramas of its gabled old town from bridges, but you can get a more unusual vantage point by joining locals in a summer float down the river right through the city centre. Beware of currents and bridge pylons, and inform yourself of exit points. See basel.com.
RAFTING IN FLORENCE
From the Arno River you can see monumental Florence float by on this cultural tour with a difference – you'll pass under the famous Ponte Vecchio and by Uffizi Gallery. But you'll also discover details of local river life in days gone by, including old laundry and fishing stations and a watermill system. See firenzerafting.it.
SUNBATHING IN PARIS
Few would argue that Paris offers one of the world's best river-scapes but, when sightseeing palls, get ready to hit the temporary beaches that line three kilometres of the Seine River over summer, complete with potted palms, parasols and deckchairs. Where else can you lie on a beach and get a view of a Gothic cathedral? See paris.fr.
See also: Photos: Paris' fake beaches open on the River Seine
FIVE RIVERSIDE TOWNS WITH CHARACTER
ARLES, RHONE RIVER, FRANCE
An impressive Roman amphitheatre (still used for bullfights and operas) gives Arles a solid fame to claim; more abstract are the cafes and streetscapes painted by Van Gogh, who lived and cut off his ear here. Butter-yellow buildings, cafes under awnings and fruit markets bring colour to the Spanish-influenced old town, which demands a day of idle wandering. Retirees play petanques under the plane trees by the river. See arlestourisme.com, or uniworldcruises.com.au for cruises.
ASTORIA, COLUMBIA RIVER, US
Founded in 1811 as an Oregon fur-trading post, Astoria sits near the mouth of the mighty Columbia River, here as wide as a lake. Kilometres of riverside promenades are designed for walking and cycling; a waterfront brewery offers more sedate pleasures. Newfound hipness has revitalised and renovated the town, which bursts with cafes and historic store fronts below a damp, lush hillside where ornate, singled houses nestle in foxglove-filled gardens. See travelastoria.com, or americanqueensteamboatcompany.com for cruises.
KREMS, DANUBE RIVER, AUSTRIA
This well-preserved, crenelated town sits just back from the Danube, but spills its surrounding vineyards down to the water. It has the requisite European old-town churches, gargoyles, gateways and off-kilter houses, but a very happy lived-in air. University students congregate in bars, Landstrasse is busy with shoppers, and cafes tempt patrons with cream cakes. Just along the river, Durnstein village has a mad baroque chapel and romantic, hilltop castle ruins. See krems.info, or scenictours.com.au for cruises.
CAI BE, MEKONG RIVER, VIETNAM
Cai Be in the Mekong Delta mightn't have specific sights, but it provides a wonderfully refreshing look at small-town Vietnam away from the country's foreigner-filled beach resorts and raucous cities. Boats piled with fish and fruit provide a floating marketplace, French colonial relics moulder, and locals go about their business. Back streets are lined with shops selling sweets, potted bonsai, dismembered computers, rice noodles or mahogany furniture. See vietnamtourism.com, or travelmarvel.com.au for cruises.
WURZBURG, MAIN RIVER, GERMANY
A vine-clad river spanned by a medieval bridge, parks, statues of saints, a hilltop fort, streets lined by chestnut trees, lounging university students: this city has everything to make you happy. The crown it all, as the former seat of a powerful prince-bishopric, it has a whopping palace considered one of Europe's great baroque masterpieces, and an extravagance of frescoes and gold leaf. See wuerzburg.de, or avalonwaterways.com for cruises.
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