The Biltmore, Santa Barbara, review: An ideal place to relax

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This was published 9 years ago

The Biltmore, Santa Barbara, review: An ideal place to relax

A relaxed vibe makes this the perfect place to chill out in the sun, writes Andrew Taylor.

By Andrew Taylor
Beachside Biltmore but the sea is only for the hardy to swim in.

Beachside Biltmore but the sea is only for the hardy to swim in.

THE LOCATION

Hollywood has long had a love affair with the Californian coast and Santa Barbara, two hours north of Los Angeles, epitomises why The Golden State inspires such devotion.

The city is a far cry from LA's scruffiness withmanicured streets lined with Spanish mission architecture, set against a backdrop of the Santa Ynez Mountains.

The Bella Vista restaurant lives up to its name.

The Bella Vista restaurant lives up to its name.

A large student population, fine culinary offerings and laid-back Californian vibe make this part of the American Riviera and an attractive destination to recover from the trans-Pacific flight, even if some dismiss it as being only for the newly-wed and nearly dead.

Situated between the Pacific Ocean and the train line to LA, The Biltmore Santa Barbara occupies prime real estate on Butterfly Beach. The brisk one-hour walk to downtown may be too far for some, although taxis are plentiful and bicycles can be rented.

THE SPACE

The rooms are not completely soundproof, with the odd childish yelp and sounds of bickering couples seeping through the walls.

Andrew Taylor

The Biltmore is part of the Four Seasons chain but its Spanish colonial-style buildings set among beautifully landscaped gardens makes it easy to believe you're the patrón of the hacienda rather than a jetlagged guest.

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For the celebrity obsessed, the wedding finale of the US The Bachelor was filmed at the hotel earlier this year. More illustrious guests including John and Jackie Kennedy have also graced the hotel.

Built in 1927, the hotel is owned by Ty Warner, a former actor who made his millions from beanie babies.

The Biltmore spa is a great spot to relax.

The Biltmore spa is a great spot to relax.

Winding pathways lead to low-lying buildings and the 12 single-storey cottages that comprise the 207 guest rooms and suites, many of which have ocean views.

But California's stretch of the Pacific Ocean may not flatter people who choose to wear budgie smugglers. The water is cold and a weather phenomenon known as June Gloom, where fog rolls over the mountains like a scene from Wuthering Heights to create chilly mornings, means ocean swimming is best left to the brave.

Guests in Superior and Deluxe rooms can pay a daily fee of $231 to use the Coral Casino beach and cabana club, an attractive Art Deco pile on the beach, with a 50-metre heated pool, gym, cafes and air of exclusivity.

The Biltmore's immaculate gardens are a joy to stroll around.

The Biltmore's immaculate gardens are a joy to stroll around.

COMFORT

A 4pm check-in is rather inconvenient, but the front-desk staff suggest the banana lounges and a paddle at the Coral Club and soon find a room ready for us.

The spacious Superior rooms are attractively furnished with a king-sized bed, plump pillows and duvets and French windows opening on to a balcony overlooking the garden. The Spanish-tiled bathroom is luxurious, does not steam up like the jungles of Borneo and is stocked with L'Occitane pamper products.

The housekeepers visit twice a day and given the wages paid in the US, tips should be left for them and others such as the bellman and concierge.

Oddly, not all rooms are equipped with facilities to make coffee and tea, although this is changing and early risers will find a spread of breakfast nibbles and caffeine in the lobby.

The rooms are not completely soundproof, with the odd childish yelp and sounds of bickering couples seeping through the walls. The steady stream of trains charging past the back of the property may also be heard by the keen-eared.

THE HIGHLIGHTS

There cannot be too many hotels that offer guests the opportunity to sharpen their beach volleyball skills with a two-time Olympic gold medallist. The Biltmore will also pack a picnic lunch for guests to break bread with Todd Rogers after battling him on the net.

The Biltmore excels in fine food and outdoor activities – there are jogging tracks around the hotel grounds and along the beach to the iconic Stearns Wharf.

A less strenuous option is to swan around the Coral Casino beach and cabana club, working on your tan or through the beverage list of its eateries Tydes and the Coral Cafe and Bar.

Fringed with kentia palms and tree ferns, the resort jungle pool has bar service, whirlpools and music piped into the water to break the boredom of swimming laps.

Of course, all this relaxing can be highly strenuous and the hotel's spa is on hand with a long list of treatments including the Vineyard Harvest and Grape de Vine inspired by the region's wine country.

Presided over by executive chef Alessandro Cartumini, The Biltmore's Bella Vista restaurant dishes up organic, Italian-inspired California coastal cuisine with views of the beach and ocean that more than live up to its name.

Wait staff are warm and knowledgeable and the atmosphere relaxed despite its fine dining. Fellow diners aren't afraid of striking up a conversation, ogling your food and becoming fast friends. And not too many restaurants offer diners whale-watching and frolicking dolphins as an entree.

GOING OUT

Santa Barbara rewards sunlovers, with its surf breaks, sailing, tranquil beaches, plentiful parks and broad tree-lined boulevards. The Mission Santa Barbara with its twin bell towers is one of the city's finest pieces of architecture, but the city is rich in museums and historic buildings.

The Santa Barbara region is a rich wine region with more than 175 wineries and a range of wine tasting rooms in downtown.

Santa Barbara's cinematic past is also worth discovering with films as diverse as Seabiscuit, Scarface and Sideways shot on location.

THE VERDICT

The Biltmore has the reassuring guarantee of quality of a top-end hotel brand, but offers guests a more memorable experience. The staff are warm and competent (the latter quality not always a feature of US hospitality); the property luxurious without being pretentious.

GETTING THERE

From Los Angeles International Airport, take a shuttle bus to Santa Barbara, and catch a taxi to the hotel. It is also possible to fly to Santa Barbara Municipal Airport or take the Amtrak Pacific Surfliner train.

ESSENTIALS

Four Seasons Resort The Biltmore Santa Barbara 1260 Channel Drive Santa Barbara California US. Superior rooms start at $456 a night during low season (November to February). See fourseasons.com/santabarbara.

WRITER RATING: 4.5

The writer was a guest of The Biltmore Santa Barbara and Visit California.

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