The Blue Mountains, NSW, travel guide and things to do: Nine must-do highlights

Hikers and leisurely strollers are spoilt for choice with the Prince Henry Cliff Walk, which covers 7 kilometres and delivers the trifecta of sights – sandstone formations, waterfalls and magnificent views. Although the entire trail can take up to four hours, walkers can drop in and out anywhere along the way. It follows the cliff line from Scenic World at Katoomba, travels east to Echo Point and Leura Cascades and finishes at Gordon Falls. Along the way are 20 lookouts and a couple of picnic grounds. Hardy types might like to tackle the 998-step Giant Stairway, which branches off at Echo Point and descends into the valley. See nationalparks.nsw.gov.au

THE ONE RESTAURANT

One of just a handful of Good Food Guide hatted restaurants in the mountains, Darley's mixes the old-world charm of its heritage location with superb food. Part of Lilianfels Resort and Spa, the restaurant occupies a century-old homestead built by former NSW Chief Justice, Sir Frederick Darley. Views from the verandah take in the sculptured gardens and diners feast on five or seven-course degustations (there's a vegan option too) in beautiful rooms furnished with antiques, marble fireplaces and ornate chandeliers. It's historic but far from stuffy; arrive early for a walk around the gardens and have a drink in the adjoining library bar. Window seats should be reserved in advance, and yes, it's a pricey night out. See darleysrestaurant.com.au

THE ONE TEAROOM

You'll get more than a hot drink when you book a table at Bygone Beautys Treasured Teapot Museum and Tearooms. Purveyors of porcelain will be in heaven viewing this Leura establishment's collection of 5500 teapots, accrued by owner Maurice Cooper and former co-owner Ronald Hooper. It all began in 1974 when Hooper stumbled across a 19th century geisha girl tea-set and embarked on a crockery crusade. Following renovations to the 1917 building, the adjoining museum was added to the tearooms. Devonshire Tea (tea and scones with jam and cream) and two luxurious high-teas, served by a waiter in top hat and tails, are on offer. Loose leaf teas in decorative caddies are also for sale. See bygonebeautys.com.au/

THE ONE GATSBY EXPERIENCE

"Everything old is new again" is a bit of a mountains' mantra. Vintage shops abound, 19th and early-20th century buildings are cherished and once a year Charleston dancers throng to the Roaring 20s festival. For a taste of Jay Gatsby's lifestyle for a few hours or a day, take a spin along the cliff-top roads with Blue Mountains Vintage Cadillacs. Co-owner Donald Millar will pick you up in one of his three LaSalle Cadillacs. His blue Landau Cabriolet with a fold-down rear roof provides plenty of room for a picnic basket, while the red 1929 Phaeton Convertible makes a statement parked outside the Hydro Majestic. The hotel will provide picnic hampers and passengers should feel free to dress up! See bluemountainsvintagecadillacs.com.au

THE ONE ART STREET

Katoomba is said to have the highest concentration of artists in New South Wales. Many of their works are featured in galleries along Katoomba Street. Start at the Blue Mountains Cultural Centre, which houses an art gallery, the World Heritage "Into the Blue" exhibition and a wonderful library opening onto a courtyard with escarpment views. Afterwards wander downhill to Gallery One88 to browse two levels of artworks and have a coffee before popping in next door to Rex-Livingston Art +Objects studio and Platform Gallery, Australia's first feminist gallery. See bluemountainsculturalcentre.com.au galleryone88finearts.com

THE ONE HISTORIC BUILDING

Motorists tend to whoosh past the village of Woodford on their journey to the Upper Mountains. But it's well worth taking a photo of the Woodford Academy, the oldest surviving complex of colonial buildings in the region. Built between 1832-34 as an inn, the buildings had various functions and owners over the decades. What began as the Woodman Inn, later became a private residence with its purchase in 1868 by Sydney merchant Alfred Fairfax. In 1907 distinguished scholar John McManamey established the Woodford Academy, a school specialising in the classics for boys from reputable families including Tom Sulman of the famous Sulman Art Prize family. The Academy is currently closed, although the other mountains' National Trust property - Norman Lindsay's Gallery at Faulconbridge - re-opened in early July. See nationaltrust.org.au

ONE MORE THING

Bushfires swept through the Bilpin area in December and torrential rains followed soon after. A drive along the Darling Causeway and Bells Line of Road brings the fierceness of the summer bushfires to reality, even though new growth has begun. While the much-loved Tutti Frutti café in Bilpin was destroyed, Bilpin Fruit Bowl (home of legendary apple pies) escaped the blaze and the Blue Mountains Botanic Gardens Mt Tomah was only slightly singed. Visitors can picnic in the gardens (the onsite restaurant is currently closed) and later head down to the new Hillbilly Cider shed to enjoy a paddle of four ciders, including the popular Sweet Julie, a drop made from apples of the same name. See hillbillycider.com.au/ bluemountainsbotanicgarden.com.au/ bilpinfruitbowl.com.au/

Caroline Gladstone travelled courtesy of the Escarpment Group, Blue Mountains Vintage Cadillacs and GalleryOne88.