Life and style ... dropping a line at Williamstown.Credit: Jason South
A mere 13 kilometres south-west of Melbourne's inner city, Williamstown is more than a metropolitan suburb. The maritime ambience, heritage-rich Nelson Place, distinct bayside outlook that incorporates the city skyline, plus a strong sense of community, is a refreshing change of perspective and pace.
Buffeted by water on three sides that encompass Hobsons, Port Phillip and Altona bays, Williamstown complements its fascinating naval past with its cosmopolitan present.
History
Originally named William's Town during the 1830s and '40s after King William IV, it subsequently became known as Williamstown.
Historically, it is regarded as the site of several landmarks. This incorporates Melbourne's first port, pier (where Gem Pier now stands), morgue, lighthouse, observatory and railway workshops, plus the first telegraph signal in the southern hemisphere. The establishment of the Victorian Navy in the mid 1800s was a first for the nation. It was the forerunner to the Royal Australian Navy.
The Williamstown railway station is the oldest in Victoria and retains its ornate 1859 facade.
In its day, Williamstown Racecourse was considered one of Australia's finest. Phar Lap won the Underwood Stakes there in 1931. However, all that remain today are some steps from the grandstand and a palm tree.
Hobsons Bay Coastal Trail
For daytime pursuits, the Hobsons Bay Coastal Trail is 24 kilometres of easygoing path that hugs the scenic foreshore. It takes in staggering bay views, piers, heritage buildings, beaches, lakes and wetlands. Suitable for walkers, runners and bike riders, it stretches from Stony Creek under the West Gate Bridge to Skeleton Creek, Altona.
Podium Bike Hub, which is run by Olympic rowers Matthew Long, Christian Ryan and Drew Ginn, has bike hire seven days a week at 18 Ferguson Street. It costs about $35 a bike for a day (phone 9397 2599).
If you're travelling by bike from the inner city, the rather novel West Gate Punt service operates on weekends and public holidays between Spotswood Jetty and Fishermans Bend Jetty, Port Melbourne. A one-way trip costs $5 a person and return is $7 (see westgatepunt.com).
Attractions
Melbourne Seaplanes at Gem Pier offers a range of flights, including its highly visual 15-minute Melbourne City Skyline service. It takes in astonishing bird's-eye views of Hobsons Bay, Williamstown and surrounding bayside beaches, plus the prominent city landmarks (phone 9547 4454 or see seaplane.com.au).
Sail around the bay on The Enterprize, a tops'l schooner that is a remarkable replica of a ship that brought the first settlers to Melbourne in 1835. Voyages range from one-hour journeys over the bay to overnighters (phone 9397 3477; see enterprize.org.au).
Continuing with the nostalgic, seafaring theme, HMAS Castlemaine, docked at Gem Pier, is a 186-foot (56.6-metre) living museum.
The refurbished World War II minesweeping vessel is the only one of its kind to remain afloat. It is open from noon-5pm on weekends, with entry $6 for adults and $3 children (see hmascastlemaine.com).
One of the easiest ways to get to know Williamstown is on foot with one or all three of the self-guided historic walks. Suburb maps are available from the Hobsons Bay Visitor Centre at Commonwealth Reserve.
Meanwhile, for those with a spirited fascination, the new Lantern Tours are conducted by candlelight in the backstreets of Williamstown. They run on selected Friday and Saturday evenings from 7.30 (see lanternghosttours.com).
Williamstown is peppered with nautical memorabilia, of which rare maritime relic the Timeball Tower, at Point Gellibrand Coastal Heritage Park, is a standout.
This solid bluestone tower started out as a lighthouse, then aided ships with navigation from 1861 until 1926 by dropping a ball down its shaft at 1pm each day. It still performs this ritual, with the help of a computer.
Events
Williamstown Craft Market (third Sunday of the month): amid the avenue of elm trees and neat green lawn of Commonwealth Reserve, this lively market has stalls laden with handmade and home-grown items. Open from 10am till 4pm (see williamstowncraftmarket.com.au).
Williamstown Festival: held last weekend, the popular festival celebrates the essence of "Willy" with an impressive array of events and activities (see williamstownfestival.com.au).
Art in Public Places (until April 18): for six weeks, Williamstown makes the most of unique gallery spaces. Cafes, shops and various businesses exhibit local artists' work, which is for sale (see artinpublicplaces.com.au).
Williamstown Literary Festival (April 26-May 2): a community-run event that attracts some rather big-name guest speakers in literature and writing. The diverse program is presented over one week. Its patron is former Victorian premier Joan Kirner (see willylitfest.org.au).
Quirky
Amid the authentic relics of Williamstown is the message tree sailors once used, plus the well-preserved Wilkinson Memorial Drinking Fountain, donated by Reverend Wilkinson in 1875 to "keep the pavement dry".
Two Armstrong cannons remain pointing out to bay at The Strand. Despite a possible Russian attack, they have never being fired.
Where to eat
Williamstown has about 90 eateries, which serve a gamut of cuisine. Almost half are at the historic and architecturally rich Nelson Place precinct.
For simplistic pleasures, buy fresh mussels straight off the boat at Gem Pier on a Sunday from 10.30am. Prawns and oysters are also available (see seabounty.com.au).
At Breizoz French Creperies, owner Jean-Marie Blanchot creates traditional Brittany-style crepes (sweet) and galettes (savoury) with buckwheat flour suitable for those who are gluten-intolerant (139 Nelson Place, phone 9397 2300).
Virtually on the steps of Gem Pier, Pelicans Landing, at 1 Syme Street, offers jaw-dropping waterfront views with an extensive modern-cum-steakhouse menu imbued with Mediterranean flavours (phone 9397 0155).
Morning Star Hotel, at 3 Electra Street, is an elfin pub that has a comfortably casual ambience complemented by modern yet down-to-earth Australian cuisine (phone 9397 6082).
Meanwhile, substantial all-day breakfasts amid retro chic is the signature at Pludo, at 98 Ferguson Street (phone 9397 2591).
Where to stay
Captain's Retreat, at 2 Ferguson Street, is a tastefully refurbished two-storey bed and breakfast with five comfortable, airy suites.
Built as a cottage in 1862, it has its own story to tell. Rates range from $155 a night (phone 9397 0352, see captainsretreat.com.au).
Modern comfort in one- or two-bedroom apartments that take advantage of outstanding water frontage can be found at Quest Williamstown, which is at 1 Syme Street (phone 9393 5300, see questwilliamstown.com.au).
Getting there
Williamstown is about a 15-minute drive from Melbourne's city centre via the West Gate Bridge.
Trains between Flinders Street and Williamstown stations depart regularly (see metlinkmelbourne.com.au). It's a five-minute walk from Williamstown station to Nelson Place.
A highly scenic and traditional mode of transport is the take a 50-minute ferry ride from Southgate to Gem Pier with Melbourne River Cruises (see melbcruises.com.au) or Williamstown Bay and River Cruises (see bayandrivercruises.com.au). The latter runs a 20-minute ferry between St Kilda and Williamstown on weekends during the warmer months.
More information
For the Hobsons Bay Visitor Information Centre, phone 9932 4310 or see visithobsonsbay.com.au.
Award-winning children's book writer Andy Griffiths has lived in Williamstown for about the past eight years. Growing up in the eastern suburbs and, "in a past life", working as a secondary school English teacher and a writer, Griffiths has subsequently been on the move. It was the birth of his first child that prompted his move from St Kilda.
"Williamstown is like the family version of St Kilda, where you can roam fairly freely," he says. "What attracted me to it very strongly was that I had a stint as a secondary school teacher in Ballarat and Mildura and developed a torn love of city and country towns. Williamstown offers a wonderful compromise. It feels like Mildura and Ballarat crunched together. It still retains a country town ambience."
In fact, Williamstown reminds Griffiths of a lot of places, especially Salamanca Place in Hobart. "I've always thought it's not that different, as you always have that sense of history around you," he says.
Since moving to Williamstown, Griffiths and his family have moved within the suburb but have found "that it's the kind of place that is very hard to remove yourself from". He says he finds that interesting as it is the first time he has experienced it.
An ardent runner, Griffiths believes Williamstown has the best running track. "It stretches almost to Newport and you can run past the bay, the Timeball Tower and the marine reserve," he says. "You can even ride to Altona. I love that run. It's never a struggle to get up of a morning and run along there, especially with the bay outlook and the sunrise.
"I feel like I'm living miles from anywhere but I'm not even 20 minutes' drive from the city. I love it. It's like a sleepy hollow."
Sign up for the Traveller Deals newsletter
Get exclusive travel deals delivered straight to your inbox. Sign up now.