This was published 5 years ago
Ayana Komodo Resort review, Flores: Sleeping on Indonesia's island of dragons and of active volcanoes
By Paul Chai
THE LOCATION
Set on the Indonesian island of Flores, this region is the land of dragons and of active volcanoes rising out of the sea. Flying into Labuan Bajo – the gateway to Komodo National Park – you soar over seemingly uninhabited islands, where rivers catch the sunlight and look like seams of silver. The plane flies past the constantly grumbling Mount Agung, whose crater cups a white haze that reminds you of its volatile potential. Komodo is just a short hour's hop from Bali, but it is a different kind of wild weekend away. Flores itself is new to five-star tourism and the nearby town is a simple fishing village worth a stroll, the sea is peppered with low-slung fishing boats and there are local ports that sell local lobster for a steal.
A short boat ride away you have the main attraction, the fearsome komodo dragons.
THE SPACE
The resort's plein-air main lobby is soaring and bright with a bar to the left made with a single (and giant) piece of local wood. There is a resort shop off to the right and the central desks backed by a simple geometric design will check you in.
The trick here is that the hotel itself is below your feet, clinging to the sheer rock walls that protect Waecicu Beach, the hotel's main stretch of sand. That check-in geometry is repeated in the angular balconies that cover the facade of the hotel; deliberately designed to look like the scaly skin of a komodo dragon – a thoughtful touch.
There are angles in the main pool too, which overlooks the beach and is home to the all-day dining restaurant, Rinca. From the beach a sinuous jetty stretches out to the pier and the alfresco Naga (Dragon) Bar perfect for a sunset drink.
For an alternative sundowner, next to the lobby is UNIQUE rooftop bar, a clubby space with couches for groups to chat.
THE ROOM
A light, bright room in earth tones that play off the bright blue view of the waters and islands of Komodo, and nice touches like the hanging bedside lanterns (though the switch is tricky to find!). The curved glass gives the bathroom an aquarium-like feel and means the view is never far away. My standard room is 43 square metres and has the requisite mod cons such as Wi-Fi, aircon and flatscreen TV. Ayana's main clientele are Japanese so your room's toilet does everything but make you breakfast.
THE FOOD
The must-do, toes-in-the-sand meal here is a seafood barbecue from Kisik Seafood Bar & Grill. The name comes from sister property Ayana Bali's clifftop restaurant but here in Komodo you will have a table right on Waecicu Beach and be eating lobster caught just beyond the pier that is silhouetted by the sunset.
Rinca is the all-day dining spot that has an Indonesian buffet on offer for guests. Hon ZEN is the inhouse Japanese restaurant and MESA bar – the long wooden lobby bar – offers some casual snacking options.
STEPPING OUT
From dragon sculptures in the lobby to the scale-like hotel design, you are only here to see one thing: the komodo dragon, a two-metre long, 120-kilogram throwback to the dinosaurs. Take the hotel's boat to Rinca island for the easiest viewing where you moor next to monkeys fossicking in the sand for food and enter the island under some mini-Jurassic Park gates – followed by a ranger armed only with a pronged stick to keep you safe. This a national park but the dragons are not stupid, so you might find them stacked up on each other near the ranger's kitchen, but don't get complacent. On our visit a ranger had been bitten just the previous week. In nesting season you might see them coiled around their eggs (waiting to eat their young, the charmers).
The snorkelling in Komodo is well worth a look, you can go trekking on nearby Padar Island or explore Rangko Cave.
Explore it all on the Ayana's pride and joy, the Lako dia, a 54-metre sailing ship moored off the jetty. Visit her for drinks or reserve a cabin for a voyage around the islands.
THE VERDICT
There is nothing like this resort in this part of Indonesia and it makes a luxe base for dipping your toe into the Komodo wilderness. Chasing dragons by day, ordering champagne and lobster by night. It's a little bit country and a little bit rock'n'roll.
THE DETAILS
Pantai Waecicu, Labuan Bajo, Komodo; 62 385 2441000. Doubles from $US223 per night; ayana.com.
HIGHLIGHT
Eating fresh barbecued seafood plucked just metres from where you are now sitting.
LOWLIGHT
The immediate snorkelling off the beach is not that exciting, but the hotel runs plenty of boats to more interesting reefs not far away.
Paul Chai was a guest of Ayana Komodo Resort.
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