The Picnic at Hanging Rock mansion, Martindale Hall, Clare Valley: Still creepy after all these years

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The Picnic at Hanging Rock mansion, Martindale Hall, Clare Valley: Still creepy after all these years

By Jane Richards
Martindale Hall at Montaro, in South Australia's Clare Valley, played the role of the school in the 1975 Australian film classic Picnic at Hanging Rock.

Martindale Hall at Montaro, in South Australia's Clare Valley, played the role of the school in the 1975 Australian film classic Picnic at Hanging Rock.Credit: Isaac Forman/ SATC

It's 2011 and a visitor to historic Martindale Hall at Mintaro, in South Australia's Clare Valley, is having trouble keeping tabs on her young son who keeps disappearing into a room on the first floor.

Eventually she coaxes him out but he's annoyed at having to leave his friend.

"What friend?" And here is where the story - conveniently printed out and placed on a mantelpiece in the room in question - sends a shiver up visitor spines.

Helen Morse in the 1975 film.

Helen Morse in the 1975 film.

The boy insists he's been playing with a girl with long curly hair who "looks like an angel". No such child is found. But a boy with long hair - as was the fashion - did spend an inordinate amount of time in that room more than 116 years ago. Valentine Mortlock, one of the six children of grazier and politician William Tennant Mortlock and his wife, Rosye Tennant, is said to have suffered some sort of illness or disability. While he was much loved, his life seems a sad one. He apparently ventured out of his room so little that even some of the Hall's live-in maids did not know he existed. As proof, visitors are shown grooves in the floor at the doorway to his room – remnants of a gate used to keep poor Valentine, who died at just eight years of age, inside.

The tale of the apparent ghostly reappearance of Valentine, so-called because he was born on Valentine's Day, is just one of many stories that lure visitors from the area's vineyards, about two hours' north of Adelaide, to this intriguing Georgian-style 1879 mansion, recognised by many as the set for the school that housed those ill-fated girls in the 1975 Australian film classic Picnic at Hanging Rock.

First there is the sheer scale of the 32-room mansion that sits plonked on the South Australian landscape like a lost and puzzled member of the English aristocracy. In its heyday Martindale Hall boasted a polo ground, stables, a cricket pitch (where the English XI were said to have once played), a racecourse, servants' quarters for 14 staff, and that other aristocratic must-have – a boating lake.

Valentine's father bought the Hall and its grounds in 1891 from the man who built it, wealthy pastoralist Edmund Bowman Jnr, heir to Martindale Station. He was forced to sell his prized creation partly due to drought and a collapse in wool prices, but mainly because he over-extended himself in a frenzied pursuit to replicate the lifestyles he saw around him when he was a student in Cambridge. Armed with a big inheritance and even bigger ambitions, Bowman hired 60 tradesman, many of whom were brought out from England, to spend almost a year building his home out of local sandstone, complete with seven-room cellar, and decorating it with carved marble fireplaces (scrubbed with cow dung to keep them sparkling) a special boudoir for visiting mistresses, and exquisite furnishings, including an enormous billiard table he imported from England that can still be seen in the library. It was so big that it was put in situ before a wall was added.

Valentine's brother, Jack, born in 1894, inherited Martindale Hall when his parents died, after being the only one left standing following the deaths of his five brothers and sisters. He travelled widely and visitors to Martindale Hall can enjoy the fruits of his wanderings: rare ceramics, tribal masks, photographs, stuffed animals, wallpapers, paintings and even a suit or armour, or lose themselves in the hedge maze outside.

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Hanging Rock fans can also visit "Miranda's" room with its creepy doll collection, which was featured in the movie, or the instantly recognisable staircase where a mesmerizing Rachel Roberts terrorised her charges without uttering a word.

Jack Mortlock died in 1948 aged just 55, only 15 months after marrying his housekeeper. He left the property to the University of Adelaide and in 1986 the university bequeathed the hall with 18 hectares to the South Australian Government and it is now open to visitors.

But Martindale Hall is not the only quirk of history and landscape in the Clare Valley, best known for its much lauded Riesling Trail, the more than 50 cellar doors between the towns of Auburn and Clare along a 40-kilometre corridor.

Drive half an hour west to Lochiel and you'll rub your eyes when Bumbunga Lake comes into view. The salt lake, a favourite of Instagrammers, changes from bubble-gum pink, to white, to ice blue, depending on the time of year. No matter what the conditions, this strange body of water plays with light, perspective - and with your mind, particularly when "Lochie" comes into view. This Loch Ness monster sculpture was installed in the lake in March, 2021, as part of a tourism project by the local council, replacing a smaller one further north that was put there as a joke by a local mechanic years ago.

And back in the township of Clare, stop at Pioneer Park to see the memorial tree where the ill-fated Burke and Wills rested before continuing their perilous journey into the interior. It was not to be their only visit. On December 8-9, 1862, townsfolk lined the streets to welcome a solemn cavalcade of camels, horses and their riders on their way to Melbourne via Adelaide with some precious cargo,

They were carrying the bleached bones of the doomed explorers that had finally been retrieved from Coopers Creek, following their deaths the previous year.

THE DETAILS

DRIVE

The Clare Valley is a two-hour drive north of Adelaide.

VISIT

Martindale Hall is open 10am-4pm Wednesdays to Mondays. 1 Min Man Road, Mintaro, Clare Valley, SA. Phone 0417 838 897. Adults $15, children: $8 See www.martindalehall-mintaro.com.au/

The Clare Valley Riesling Trail is suitable for walkers, mountain and touring bikes, and wheelchairs. Bike hire available. Wineries includeKnappstein, Mitchell, Claymore, Stone Bridge. See rieslingtrail.com.au

WINE & DINE

For great food and a rooftop bar, Seed Bistro Clare, 268 Main North Road. See seedclarevalley.com

For excellent Italian, Ragu & Co, 308b Main North Road. See raguandco.com.au

Wineries in Clare include Jim Barry jimbarry.com, Shut the Gate shutthegate.withwine.com and the memorably named Mad Bastard Wines madbastard.com.au

Jane Richards travelled at her own expense.

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