This was published 7 years ago
Jackalope, Mornington Peninsula, review: Gobsmacking new hotel is downright sexy
THE PLACE
Jackalope, Mornington Peninsula, Victoria
THE LOCATION
Merricks North, an hour out of Melbourne, home to weekender farms for the city well-to-do, as well as genuine producers and locals who've been on the peninsula for generations. With Red Hill one way and Balnarring the other, this is the regional sweet spot for signature rolling hills, pine tree windbreaks, towering old gum trees and world-famous vineyards.
THE SPACE
It's the Mornington Peninsula, but not as you know it. Forget the whitewashed tones and cashmere blankets you might expect of a maritime winegrowing and holiday area. This is black. And gold. And downright sexy. And, well, kind of gobsmacking.
Owner Louis Li, with Carr Design Group, Fabio Ongarato Design and Melbourne furniture makers Zuster, set out to deliberately create juxtaposition: something "surreal" in the classic country environment. With Li describing it as an expression of himself, the property has an overall theme of "alchemy".
The black ("the most humble of colours," says Li) collection of structures centre around a small working winery, a historic homestead, a 30-metre heated infinity pool and hot tub, and a spectacular 360-degree rolling vineyard view.
Big fireplaces, reflective surfaces and warm white vaulted ceilings play counterpoint to all the black and should brighten and cosy things up in winter.
Interiors and exteriors are laden with big and small details, many of them dazzling, from the massive jackalope sculpture in the equally big entrance piazza, to the little statements of attention to detail, such as the beautiful black pencils on the desks.
No expense has been spared. And it shows.
It could be ostentatious folly but it pulls up cleverly just short of that. It's undeniably intriguing.
THE ROOM
Once you adjust to the disco hallways – all black and dark, lit with neon strips – the 46-room accommodation is a mixed bag. The standard rooms are understated and calm with streamlined bronze or silver and black interiors, while the two premium "lairs" are – wow – black marble, gold curtains, gold carpets, black furnishings and cabinetry, an indoor-outdoor gas jet fireplace and a giant Japanese stone tub all fronted by a huge terrace.
But even more wow, that view, across the property's own vineyards, dam and neighbouring bush. And the sunset, with birds and butterflies flitting across it. Despite the jaw-dropping quality and individual statements of each piece of furniture, you can't help but crack a Willow Creek Vineyard pinot noir (the home label), pull up a banana lounge and gaze out at all that nature.
THE FOOD
Even if the decor doesn't float your boat, get here just for this. Executive chef Guy Stanaway (formerly of Aman) has set some splendid offerings both in the casual winery and cellar door restaurant Rare Hare, where sharing plates laden with fresh local produce are the go, and the "refined" dining, Doot Doot Doot, offering degustation featuring clever combinations of technique, texture, presentation and ingredients. These are visionary dishes that would be at home in some of our most lauded restaurants. The veal sweetbreads with abalone, shitake and walnut accompanied by a 2014 Domaine Delesvaux 'Passerille' chenin blanc was sublime. (The eight-course degustation is $125 without matched wine, $210 with.)
The 10,000-lightbulb ceiling installation is something to behold.
The hotel's bar, Flaggerdoot, is a kooky, fun space with more statement furniture and surrealist decorations, a bright blue mini-pool table and a great drinks list.
STEPPING OUT
Wineries abound in this part of the world. There are beautiful beaches nearby. And the little town of Merricks is home to the Merricks General Wine Store, a great French-inspired bistro and cellar door for local wines.
THE VERDICT
A few features represent design over practicality – such as hard-to-find black power points on black walls, confusing lighting controls and matte black surfaces which show finger marks and footprints all too readily. (I also lost my black room key card on the all-black surfaces.) There are big concepts at play, but if the experience isn't enjoyable, no one will care about those. Bottom line? It's fun, theatrical and really quite fabulous.
ESSENTIALS
Rates start at $650 a night and include a la carte breakfast, in-room mini bar, wine on arrival and Wi-Fi. See jackalopehotels.com
HIGHLIGHT
General manager Tracy Atherton has curated the most amazing staff, coming from far and wide and with serious credentials to join Jackalope. They are the real ornaments here.
LOWLIGHT
Sure, something new for Australia has been created, but some things about Australia won't be denied, like flies. There are no fly screens on large sliding balcony doors (and oh, the flies). Along the same fresh air theme, the in-room air-conditioning does not turn off and the large windows in Rare Hare don't open – a shame for a casual eatery on the edge of a vineyard.
Julietta Jameson was a guest of Jackalope Hotels.
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