Raffles Hotel Le Royal, review, Phnom Penh: Charm of a bygone era

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This was published 8 years ago

Raffles Hotel Le Royal, review, Phnom Penh: Charm of a bygone era

By Julie Miller
Updated
The grand entrance to the Raffles Hotel Le Royal, in Phnom Penh.

The grand entrance to the Raffles Hotel Le Royal, in Phnom Penh.

THE LOCATION

Phnom Penh is growing up – literally. Several skyscrapers glitter through the tropical haze amid cranes and scaffolding. But one dignified dowager continues her reign, a timeless fixture in a rapidly changing landscape. Raffles Hotel Le Royal has been a Phnom Penh institution since 1929, a stately Indochine palace that has hosted luminaries such as Jackie Kennedy, Somerset Maugham, Charlie Chaplin, Angelina Jolie and Barack Obama. The last bastion for foreign journalists covering the Cambodian civil war during the 1970s, it survived the Khmer Rouge by being draped in Red Cross flags and declared a neutral zone. A sympathetic restoration in 1997 saw the hotel return to prominence, with rebranding as a Raffles cementing its status as a South-East Asian icon.

THE SPACE

Lobby at Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Phnom Penh.

Lobby at Raffles Hotel Le Royal, Phnom Penh.

From its sweeping driveway and red carpet entrance, overseen by bellmen​ dressed in traditional Khmer garb, to its grand lobby graced with chandeliers, billowing curtains, candles and plush leather lounges, Le Royal reeks of understated elegance. Sashay down the creaking teak staircase, marvelling at the tasteful black-and-white tiles and original antique furnishings, before languishing poolside beneath blooming frangipani, in an irresistible city oasis. There are 175 rooms and suites in the hotel, with original Art Deco Landmark rooms and "personality suites" named after famous guests the most coveted.

THE ROOM

Le Royal's impeccable service begins at the airport, with transfers in a black BMW 5 Series limousine. After personalised lobby check-in and a refreshing welcome drink, I am escorted to my Landmark room in the original front wing. Unfortunately, it is without a balcony, and is a little dark, with dim lighting throughout. The bed is high and regal, however, and I love the lavish period touches: pleated lampshades, silk robes, writing desk, claw-foot tub and etched windows. Raffles' signature bathroom amenities, a daily refreshed supply of fresh fruit and a newspaper delivered each morning add to the ambience.

Balcony Pool view from the State Room.

Balcony Pool view from the State Room.Credit: John McDermott

Luxury can be an odd thing; when I'm informed I have a private butler on call, I'm a little thrown. I opt for the simplest of requests: fresh coffee hand-delivered to my bedside after a wake-up call. That sort of spoiling I can handle! As atmospheric and comfortable as my room is, I'm reminded of the hotel's vintage by the rattle of noisy plumbing – yes, my neighbour is running a bath. It's all part of the charm – history uncompromised.

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THE FOOD

No visit to Phnom Penh is complete without cocktails at the Elephant Bar, a colonial icon resplendent with wicker chairs, a grand piano, snooker table and whimsical murals of pachyderms. I order a Femme Fatale, named in honour of Jacqueline Kennedy who imbibed the sweet mix of champagne, cognac and strawberry liqueur during her visit in the 1960s. Restaurant Le Royal offers fine French and Khmer dining in a posh setting; while breakfast is served in the airy Cafe Monivong, offering a wondrous buffet of Asian and western favourites as well as an a la carte menu.

STEPPING OUT

Phnom Penh is one of the planet's most vibrant cities, congested and crazy but also inspiring and infectious. Head to the waterfront to view the madness from the rooftop bar of the FCC; then wander the side-streets off Sisowath Quay to observe an economy on the rise, with cool boutiques, bars and restaurants.

THE VERDICT

Raffles Le Royal is a timeless refuge, an enduring symbol of the golden age of travel. It's a lovely combination of luxury and unpretentiousness, and an indulgence that doesn't disappoint.

ESSENTIALS

Rooms at Raffles Hotel Le Royal start at $320, with Landmark rooms from $370 including daily breakfast.

See raffles.com/phnom-penh/.

HIGHLIGHT

Coffee delivered to my bedside after a wake-up call.

LOWLIGHT

I left behind my swimsuit and it was never returned to me.

The writer was a guest of Raffles Hotel Le Royal.

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