The toughest way to see paradise

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This was published 10 years ago

The toughest way to see paradise

By Craig Platt
A boat filled with bikini-clad WAGs (wives and girlfriends of the competitors) performs cheer-leading duties.

A boat filled with bikini-clad WAGs (wives and girlfriends of the competitors) performs cheer-leading duties.Credit: Craig Platt

It may be one of the most beautiful places on Earth, but this is no pleasure cruise. In fact it must be one of the toughest ways to see the spectacular scenery of a Pacific paradise.

Teams from all over the Pacific converged on Tahiti late last week to take part in the Tahiti Nui Va'a – a gruelling, 166-kilometre, biennial canoe race that circumnavigates the entire island.

The race, which is divided into three legs (one per day), attracts as many as 700 competitors, who paddle the six-man outrigger canoes around the island, all seeking a piece of the $40,000 in prize money up for grabs.

The course passes by some spectacular reef breaks.

The course passes by some spectacular reef breaks.Credit: Craig Platt

While many of the teams are from French Polynesia, there are teams that have come from Hawaii and as far away as New Zealand to take part (though there is no Australian team among the 43 competing).

Each team has 12 paddlers, allowing for a full crew to swap out in the middle of the race, in the open ocean. This process is performed with the speed and precision of a formula 1 pit crew, as the six team members in the canoe hang up their paddles and, in formation, jump out of the canoe into the ocean, while the new crew leap up from the water, where they have been dropped by a motorised support boat, and take up paddling.

Their endurance and strength is extraordinary – the pace is relentless and the canoes cut through the water and waves like floating knives. There is no time to enjoy the scenery – indeed, the rowers barely look anywhere but directly in front, ensuring all six crew in the canoe are in perfect sync with their strokes.

The canoes are dwarfed by Tahiti's spectacular landscape.

The canoes are dwarfed by Tahiti's spectacular landscape.Credit: Craig Platt

Beginning shortly after dawn, the event attracts a huge flotilla of boats that accompany the canoes along the route – team members, officials, safety crew, boats filled with WAGs (wives and girlfriends) and general fans. The site of this flotilla is almost more impressive than the race itself, as dozens of speedboats, luxury motorised yachts and even jetskis follow the action in a scene reminiscent of Waterworld.

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The race takes place regardless of the weather, leaving the competitors facing heavy rains and even heavier seas throughout the event. Day two, from Vairo to Matira on Tahiti Iti (the smaller peninsula of Tahiti), sees the roughest weather, with both competitors – and spectators – regularly copping a face full of sea water for their trouble. It's also the shortest leg and just 46 kilometres, compared with a 70 kilometres stretch on day one.

As the race circles the whole island, it is an opportunity to see some of the spectacular landscapes of the volcanic island normally unseen by tourists. The canoes are dwarfed by the volcanic rock formations jutting up at sheer angles from the Pacific, and clouds hang low in the sky with the occasional full rainbow appearing, stretching out from the land to the ocean. The canoes pass around lagoons with spectacular reef breaks, including one of the world's most famous surf spots - Teahupo'o.

The Shell Va'a team leads the race the whole way, but consider the stages can take as long as five hours to complete, the finishes are relatively close, with only a few minutes between first and second during the final stage on Saturday morning (Sunday morning Australia time). Hundreds of Tahitians turn out to watch the winner cross the line and prepared for a celebratory party and some well-earned rest for the competitors.

The writer travelled as guest of Tahiti Tourism.

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