Old Parliament House.Credit: Australian Capital Tourism
It's time to embrace your national capital, writes James Rose.
Now that we know the election date, one might be tempted to run as far from the national capital as possible, leave the country perhaps, don't establish eye contact on the way out and stay away until it's all over, sending a postal vote with a stamp from some comparatively calm and sensible location, such as Cairo. But there is a more courageous strategy: make it an excuse for a holiday. In Canberra. Embrace the process. Who'd have thought it?
First, a no-brainer. Head up the hill to Parliament House, which is hard to miss in the landscape it dominates, both physically and spiritually. Public access is fairly generous and although Parliament doesn't sit during an election campaign, you can wander about and catch clutches of earnest-looking suited types flustering by, loaded with folders and intent, carrying the weight of the nation.
The front entrance is a nice symbol of Australia: a massive, rather lifeless space, largely empty, with security on push-bikes.
The relative low-key aspect of Australian political life is enhanced at Old Parliament House, just down the hill. Here you can step into the the office of the last prime minster to use this house, Bob Hawke, and note - as did one shocked American president - how his back was clearly visible from the street as he worked.
If you stand on the steps outside and look back towards the building, you can recall perhaps the most significant moment in Australian political history. We all know it was here that Gough Whitlam gave his famous "Well may they say ..." speech in 1975. But that's not it. The real "moment" was the appearance of Norman Gunston at his side. Australian culture right there.
Old Parliament House is now the site of the Museum of Australian Democracy, which seems an unfortunate name as it sounds like democracy here is something to be noted only in its remembrance, like the dinosaurs.
Speaking of dinosaurs, where's Clive Palmer going to be? Well, you could do worse than check out the National Dinosaur Museum, where the big fella might be scoping the range of possibilities for his proposed Sunshine Coast theme park in between photo ops.
Where else might you see some of the heavy hitters of Australian politics? The Greens tend to get trapped around the inner courtyards at Parliament House. When they escape they may be found at the Tidbinbilla Sanctuary - 45 minutes outside Canberra - searching out rarities such as platypus and useful policies. Used to chilled political wilderness, they might also be comfortable in the alpine wilds of the Namadgi National Park, about an hour to the south-west.
Tony Abbott might be seen out at Stromlo Forest Park's world- class facilities, humming about on his mountain bike, budgie-smuggler bum bobbing, or running a cross-country circuit to get in training for being chased out of town if he ever wins.
If you hang around 5 Adelaide Avenue, the address of the PM's Canberra residence, The Lodge, you might see K. Rudd sweep in or out. But Adelaide Avenue is a busy highway - does the PM have to turn up the telly at peak hour like the rest of us? - so stopping for a visit isn't exactly welcomed.
As such, checking out last year's taxpayer-funded renos might be out but do a drive past, perhaps, and see if the movers' trucks are in for a scoop on the election results.
Election sightings in the wild may increase in the evening hours. Best to wait until close of business for pollies and policy wonks - i.e. about 9pm - and hang about at a few bars noted for bigwig-spotting.
One such watering hole, Charlie Black, comes equipped with a host who, if the mood is right, will offer jewels of gossip while adeptly keeping mum on the best bits. It's a casual brasserie and cidery, with open sides and loads of outdoor seating. Tables are close enough to eavesdrop, but the sight of a phone might quieten voices and dull body language. The margaritas would win any vote.
Another, The Kennedy Room, is a more upmarket, wine-bar-style establishment. High ceilings, woody tones and soft lighting seem designed for machiavellian strategising. Bartenders here are more discreet and, in comparison with the more old-school Charlie Black, this is definitely a new-age-style bar, seemingly aware of the power of social media.
A third, the National Press Club, tends to be favoured by journos hiding from editors and deadlines or perhaps from the speechifying in the dining room downstairs, which can go on a bit. Many heavy hitters will be appearing here in the coming weeks, so chances of a sighting or an inside story are good. So is getting a good local wine and a decent meal.
Getting out of town has its rewards at election time. A pleasant 15-minute drive down the King's Highway is Queanbeyan. This is the largest centre in the famous Eden-Monaro seat, which has effectively predicted the government since 1972 by voting for the winning party every time. Election coverage will certainly feature it. Lobbing into one of three pubs or numerous cafes and restaurants in Monaro Street may produce an early election tip before even the keenest psephologist is prepared to call it.
To finish the Canberra election tour, go back to Old Parliament House and look outwards this time. You'll see a smouldering fire, an Aboriginal flag and a ragtag of tents and caravans. For 40 years the Tent Embassy has stood here, a constant presence in the Australian democratic landscape. Dominating the symbol-laden view from the old house to the War Memorial, it provides a moment of election reflection - on democracy and its winners and losers.
As another government prepares to take shape, it is a good place to consider the past - and the future.
The writer travelled to Canberra as a guest of ACT Tourism.
WHERE THE POLLIES STAY
Politicians often share rented or owned self-contained apartments in Canberra if they've been around for long enough. Newbies chose self-contained apartments, which are plentiful in Canberra. Here's a selection — you never know who you'll meet in the lift.
THE DIPLOMAT
Older-style boutique hotel that also has serviced apartment options. Nestled near the parliamentary circle. Think staffers and electorate officers. diplomathotel.com.au.
OXLEY COURT APARTMENTS
Near Parliament House, and you can walk to Kingston and Manuka shops and eateries. Policy advisers may head here. oxleycourt.com.au.
PINNACLE APARTMENTS
A little more upmarket, Pinnacle is perfect for quiet campaign strategy meetings. pinnacleapartments.com.au.
KINGSTON COURT SERVICED APARTMENTS
Set in a nice, leafy street, the Kingston has a tennis court, useful for ministers trying to belt each other about. kingstonterrace.com.au.
HOTEL REALM
Upmarket, executive style for cabinet members and deep-pocketed party funders. Has a fancy Atrium option.
TRIP NOTES
GETTING THERE
Qantas and Virgin fly to Canberra daily from Sydney. There are also daily coach and CountryLink train options. Canberra is about 3½ hours' drive from Sydney. The scenic route via the Princes Highway is a nice option.
DOING THERE
Parliament House,
Museum of Australian Democracy,
Tidbinbilla, tidbinbilla.com.au.
Namadgi, australianalps.environment.gov.au/parks/namadgi.html.
Stromlo, stromloforestpark.com.au.
EATING THERE
Charlie Black, charlieblack.com.au.
The Kennedy Room, thekennedyroom.com.
National Press Club, npc.org.au.
MORE INFORMATION
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