This was published 1 year ago
Thredbo in winter, travel guide and things to do: Nine highlights
By Jim Darby
Former alpine shelter Kareela Hutte puts on an excellent lunch.
THE ONE SUNRISE
Deep in the Snowy Mountains and about five and a half hours' drive from Sydney or six and a half from Melbourne, Thredbo claims Australia's highest point reached by a ski lift — Karels T-bar at 2037 metres (Kosciuszko is 2228 metres). On Tuesday mornings, when it's still dark, skiers and snowboarders can meet near Thredbo's Valley Terminal, hop inside a warm snow cat and make a surprisingly quick trip up to the top of Karels to admire the sunrise. Then there's a hot breakfast at Eagles Nest and the final treat — first tracks on a freshly-groomed Supertrail. Cost is $149. See thredbo.com.au
THE ONE SKIING TIP
Thredbo's upper slopes are exposed and windy; that's why they still use surface lifts (T-bars, not chairlifts) up high for access. If you like riding quality snow, then put on a neck warmer and goggles and make the wind your friend. Wind-blown powder snow is a Thredbo trademark — you'll find it up on the Bluff or over on Antons and Sponars T-bars. It'll be on the sides of gullies and sometimes open faces — once you find it on terrain with a particular aspect, look for that aspect wherever you go and thank the wind for fresh tracks every run. Sublime fun.
THE ONE MORNING COFFEE
You can get good coffee at the Avalanche Cafe anytime from about 8.30am, but it's worth waiting for the coffee crowd to settle — explore the mountain for a couple of hours and then, rather than ordering from the mothership downstairs, get the coffee from the Avalanche kiosk on the same level as the Kosciuszko Express Chairlift. Pull up a chair or sink into a sun lounge and watch the people go by — if this were a cruise liner, you'd be on the promenade deck.
THE ONE BACKCOUNTRY ADVENTURE
There's an enormous amount of terrain inside Thredbo's boundaries, but if you'd like to push those boundaries, sign up for a backcountry tour — they're run at many ability levels, all the way from introductory courses to itineraries for advanced adventurers or those who want to learn avalanche skills. Terrain accessed will depend on weather and snow cover, but it's an extraordinary environment whichever direction you head. Cost is $199 to $309 depending on the tour and its duration. See thredbo.com.au
THE ONE SNOWSHOE WANDER
You don't have to have skis or a snowboard to get out among the Australian alps. This three-hour ramble on snowshoes includes a chairlift ride and a guided exploration of the alpine environment, its heritage and its fauna and flora. See thredbo.com.au
THE ONE LUNCH
Kareela Hutte, up high above the snowline, started life in the 1950s as a club lodge for the Ski Tourers' Association — a bunch of enthusiasts with a network of huts through the mountains who skied hard and most likely partied hard afterwards. It has long been a restaurant, but still carries that ambience of alpine shelter. The food is excellent and so is the drinks list - not least the shots of Wildbrumby schnapps for an afternoon warm-up. Kareela also occasionally opens for dinner and a Saturday night viewing of the flare run and fireworks. See thredbo.com.au
THE ONE APRES SESSION
You'll find the young and the restless heaving to the disco beat at the Alpine Bar, which doubles as the courtyard of the Thredbo Alpine Hotel. It's a big space, made even bigger when they filled in the seldom-used swimming pool in one corner. Big name DJs make their way here, like Stace Cadet and members of Peking Duk. For something a little more intimate, try the Apres Bar at The Denman.
THE ONE DINNER
Cascades, attached to the Thredbo Alpine Hotel is good and so is Candlelight Lodge, especially for the fun of a fondue, but the Terrace Restaurant at The Denman stands out for the room, the service and the food — oysters in from the coast at their wintry best, tender meat and tasty pasta. And you can just about guarantee host Ed Denman will drop by to make sure everything is OK. See thedenman.com.au
THE ONE LIGHT SHOW
Thredbo's geography has many advantages — with the village on one side of the valley, a river in the middle and the ski slopes soaring up on the other side. That makes for a stunning light show on Saturday nights when skiers and boarders snake their way down the mountain, lanterns in hand for a flare run. The fireworks follow — loud and spectacular as the light bounces off that snow-white background. It starts at 6pm; watch from the terrace near the pizzeria or anywhere higher.
ONE MORE THING
If you're coming to Thredbo from the Jindabyne side, then make a stop at Wildbrumby, the creation of Brad and Monika Spalding (there's a Thredbo connection here — Brad once ran the snowsports school at the resort). It's a distillery specialising in schnapps but the vodka and gin aren't bad either. There's a cafe onsite, with a mountain bent in the menu and it's also a sprawling sculpture park — pre-order a picnic hamper and have it in the grounds or down by the Thredbo River. See wildbrumby.com
The writer was a guest of Thredbo.
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