Camping out at a former shipyard is more comfortable than you might imagine, writes Harriet Upjohn.
A SEAGULL eyes me warily from its vantage point on a rusty railing as I launch myself down Cockatoo Island's old northern slipway for an early morning dip. As I lie on my back in the water, serenaded by squawking gulls and the clanking of chains on a ghostly, long-defunct crane, I smile as I imagine what my friend Donald, who did his apprenticeship here, would make of this scene. He would think me off my trolley.
As for camping on the island, wild horses couldn't drag Donald to stay in the place he once thought of as Sydney's Alcatraz due to the long, cold night shifts he endured here. But for those who don't have memories of hard yakka in what was once Australia's biggest shipyard, camping on Cockatoo is an urban experience not to be missed.
A step-up ... glamping on Cockatoo Island.
And I'm not talking any old camping. Being a bit of a princess when it comes to sleeping under canvas, I am relieved to find that as well as BYO and rent-a-tent options, there's also a "glamping" package whereby all home comforts are provided. We arrive to find a spacious khaki tent earmarked for us in a prime waterfront spot. Inside is a double bed made up with crisp white linen and pillows, plus cushions, towels, two sun lounges, a bedside table and lantern. I love the fact that there's no lugging of bedding involved, not to mention any ridiculous faffing about with guy-ropes and tent pegs.
We have always enjoyed exploring Cockatoo and have made the short ferry trip here many times with our kids. It's great to be able to roam the World Heritage-listed site and wander through long, dark tunnels and cavernous buildings, many of which appear to have been left just as they were when workers downed tools for the last time in 1992. There's a powerful atmosphere here - testament, perhaps, to its gruesome convict past - and to be staying overnight on an island that was off-limits to the public for 100 years is a big thrill.
As the afternoon gives way to dusk and ferries cart the day-trippers away, Cockatoo comes into its own. We take a final spin around the island before settling into our waterfront spot to watch life go by.
Island bar on Cockatoo Island.
Strange noises abound as the buildings, rusting machinery and cranes creak and groan in the breeze and the plaintive cries of territorial plovers guarding their nests echo along the shoreline. Given Cockatoo's past, and the fact that it's the only harbour island where you can stay the night, there's a special buzz being here as darkness falls.
Although it's a quiet Sunday night, we're not the only people staying in the campsite.
Having been told by island staff that celebrity campers are not uncommon and "you never know who your glamping neighbours are", I ponder the possibility of bumping into Cate Blanchett or Russell Crowe in the shower block and decide that would be kind of weird.
The Island Bar, which is open for drinks, lunch and dinner during the summer, has further enhanced the Cockatoo camping experience because it means you don't have to bother bringing your own food. Having not realised this, we've arrived with half the contents of our fridge. Given a choice between the off-smelling chicken fillets and soggy lettuce we've brought from home and the mouth-watering selection of antipasto dishes, salads and pizzas on the Island Bar menu, I know which I'd rather be having.
Not to worry, though. Despite its lack of culinary credentials, we have fun cooking our dinner. It's a balmy summer night and we crack open a bottle of white and shoot the breeze as we watch our chicken gently burning on the barbecue.
A bit further along the waterfront is an undercover dining area with sinks and a fridge but as it's such a lovely night we decide that a picnic at the water's edge, although less comfortable, is the go. So we spread our charred feast out on some wooden steps leading down to the water near our tent and gaze at the passing parade of boats on the Parramatta River and the lights going on in the Hunters Hill mansions on the far shore.
After washing up, it's time for a shower, teeth and bed. Memories of festering communal campsite bathrooms loom as I head towards the modern industrial-style shower and toilet block.
I am relieved, however, to find a row of clean and spacious, well-designed cubicles constructed from timber and corrugated iron with a sweeping raised roof that allows a breeze to flow through. And, thank heavens, no sign of Cate or Russ as I emerge in my jim-jams looking distinctly unglamorous.
The next morning we're woken early by the sound of peak-hour ferries. We hadn't anticipated how noisy the water traffic would be and kick ourselves for not bringing earplugs. A bit more sleep would have been nice but a dip in the slipway soon wakes us up. Afterwards we have a leisurely breakfast at the Canteen, a kiosk near the ferry wharf.
By mid-morning it's time to wrench ourselves away from Cockatoo and head back to the mainland a few minutes' ferry ride away.
The first thing I plan to do when I get home is call Donald and tell him I've just slept at his old shipyard. I can't wait to hear his reaction, although I expect it will be unrepeatable.
The writer was a guest of the Sydney Harbour Federation Trust, which manages Cockatoo Island.
Trip notes
Where Cockatoo Island, Sydney Harbour, cockatooisland.gov.au.
Getting there Parramatta or Balmain/Woolwich ferry from Circular Quay or other stops on these routes.
How much Glamping from $135 a night. Includes two-man tent, sun lounges, linen and toiletries. Camping packages from $85 include tent, mattresses, chairs and lantern but no bedlinen. BYO tent option from $45.
Perfect for Couples or friends who want all the fun of camping without the hard work.
Don't forget Sunscreen, swimmers, insect repellent, earplugs (so you don't get woken by early morning ferries), money for food and drink in the Island Bar and kiosk.
Shame about Forgetting to take earplugs.
Kudos The only harbour island where you can stay overnight.
Take the kids Perhaps not for glamping but definitely for standard camping package.
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