Budapest, Hungary, things to do: Travel tips from an expert expat

Budapest-born Sofia Hum arrived in Melbourne as a five-year-old with her parents, political refugees escaping communist Hungary. They arrived with one suitcase and no English. "It was intense culture shock," she says. While still a student, the [now] Australian-Hungarian citizen visited Budapest and fell in love with the city. After completing her degrees in Sydney and Brisbane, Sofia returned to Budapest where she works as a primary school teacher.

SEE

Head up to the castle district where you can check out the interior of the Matyas Church and stare out at the city from the Fishermen's Bastian. If you're into art, head to the National Gallery, whereas history buffs can check out The Budapest History Museum or even the Museum of Military History. My favourite is the Hospital in the Rock Museum, just behind the castle. The area under the castle was used not only as a bomb shelter throughout the various wars, but also as a hospital. It was run by the Red Cross and was considered neutral territory, so Russian soldiers were treated alongside Hungarians. See sziklakorhaz.eu

DO

Walk around Margaret Island in the middle of the Danube and head to the ruins of the convent that housed King Geza IV's daughter, born in 1242 and buried on the island just 27 years later. If you're up for a longer route, walk from Margaret Bridge all the way to Freedom Bridge along the river, taking in the parliament, the castle and Gellert Hill. You will end up at Nagycsarnok (the Great Market), where you can find quality souvenirs and Hungarian food upstairs. See budapestmarkethall.com

EAT

No one can leave Hungary without trying a langos - fried bread with various toppings. The classic is garlic, sour cream and cheese. The best langos is highly contested, but the Retro Langos bar across from the Arany Janos metro stop is always full. To go full native, head to the Lehel Market in the 13th district to the langos stand in the middle (not the one at the front) where ladies have been making langos for generations. Beer is recommended as an accompaniment: I always have a Dreher, the best Hungarian beer.

DRINK