Defiant look: Wolf dogs are independent and shy.
One visit to this sanctuary, and you'll discover these animals are no ordinary domestic pets.
Zeus skulks behind a row of trees, about 30 metres from where I stand. The wolf dog's thick black coat stands out against a blanket of snow on the ground, while in the distance are the picturesque snow-capped mountains of Canada's Rockies.
I'm being stalked by Zeus, the alpha male of the pack, Kuna, the alpha female, and a third member of the pack, 10-month-old Arctic wolf dog Nova. I'm visiting the Yamnuska Wolfdog Sanctuary in Alberta, at the home of Georgina De Caigny, a woman who is dedicating her life to rescuing wolf dogs.
Zeus (right) is the alpha male of the pack.
De Caigny has left me alone in a fenced compound with the pack, while she welcomes other visitors at the front door of her home.
Being a dog lover, I'm not frightened of wolf dogs but I have just learnt these animals, which are part wolf and part dog, are not like ordinary domestic dogs.
Within a few minutes of De Caigny leaving the fenced area, the three high-ranking pack members have come out of hiding from behind trees to join two low-content wolf dogs, Nikki and Charlie. Nikki and Charlie have approached me timidly for the treats I have offered.
When I lock eyes with Zeus, I'm startled by the intensity of the pack leader's gaze. It's a defiant look that tells me there's little chance that Zeus will be as friendly.
There's a growing problem in North America, where wolf dogs are being bred and sold as pets.
Most wolf dogs are not suited to life as domestic pets and owners soon realise they can pose significant behavioural challenges. They can dig, jump or chew their way out of conventional fencing with ease. They are much more independent than dogs and are predominantly shy. They need a lot of exercise, exhibit pack behaviour and hate being left alone.
Sadly, this results in a large population of unwanted animals that end up chained in backyards or abandoned.
The International Fund for Animal Welfare estimates that there are about 300,000 wolf dogs and 1500 pure wolves living in captivity in North America.
"I like to compare them more to cats than dogs," says De Caigny. "Wolf dogs only do what they want to do, while dogs are domesticated to respond to humans."
De Caigny started the visitor program to raise awareness of the plight of wolf dogs. Visitors are admitted to the sanctuary for 30-minute visits that include a talk about wolf dogs, a chance to ask questions and an opportunity to get close to the animals.
Low-content wolf dogs - those with more dog than wolf genes - are less concerned about their position in the hierarchy.
"What attracted me to high-content wolf dogs is their ability to communicate and interact with you," says De Caigny. "These guys are so intellectual.
"They have strong personalities and you can't push them around."
De Caigny has an especially strong bond with Kuna and has learnt to communicate effectively with the wolf dog. Not surprisingly, Kuna sleeps on De Caigny's bed each night. Her bond with Kuna has enabled her to train the other wolf dogs as well.
"If there's something that Kuna wants, she will figure out a way to communicate with me, but sometimes she gets destructive in her attempt to tell me what she wants," says De Caigny.
"Teaching them appropriate human interaction is possible, but it takes a lot of work."
The writer was a guest of Tourism Alberta and the Canadian Tourism Corporation.
FIVE OTHER SURPRISING ANIMAL SANCTUARIES
MOHOLOHOLO REHABILITATION CENTRE, SOUTH AFRICA
Moholoholo offers opportunities for visitors to volunteer to help save injured African animals, such as lions, leopards and wild dogs. The centre also has a successful serval breeding project and has bred and released over 160 servals into areas where they have previously been wiped out. See moholoholo.co.za.
THE DONKEY SANCTUARY, UK
Founded in 1969, this organisation supports projects in 27 countries. The aim of the charity is to help sick, unwanted and hardworking donkeys and the people who rely on them. Slade Farm at Sidmouth has 500 donkeys in need of cuddles. See thedonkeysanctuary.org.uk.
NOAH'S ARK, GEORGIA, US
Home to rescued animals it cares for more than 1000 exotic wildlife and domestic animals, from white Bengal tigers to South American macaws. The centre is run on donations and is open to the public. It offers behind-the-scenes tours and camping safaris. See noahs-ark.org.
FREE THE BEARS, CAMBODIA
A rescue centre specialising in sun bears and Asiatic black bears saved from illegal poaching and trading, this sanctuary is located at the Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre, 40 kilometres from the capital Phnom Penh. It also has 1000 birds, mammals, reptiles and other animals. See freethebears.org.au.
FREEDOM HILL SANCTUARY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA
This sanctuary provides a safe haven for farm animals that have been rescued from abuse, exploitation or neglect. The small sanctuary promotes, educates and encourages compassionate cruelty-free living. See freedomhill.com.au.
TRIP NOTES
GETTING THERE
Air Canada has flights from Sydney to Vancouver with connections to Calgary, phone 1300 655 767, see aircanada.com. Transfer to Yamnuska Wolfdog Sanctuary (1.5 hours) with SunDog Transportation and Tours. See www.banfftours.com.
SEE + DO
Yamnuska Wolfdog Sanctuary, Exshaw, Alberta, is open from Thursday to Monday. Visits are available at 10.30am, noon, 2pm and 3.30pm. A 45-minute visit costs $C39 ($39). See yamnuskawolfdogsanctuary.com
MORE INFORMATION
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