This was published 1 year ago
Hotel review: Finns at Old Bar on the New South Wales coast - Beach house meets boutique hotel at the sleepy coastal retreat
By Julie Miller
Formerly a guesthouse, Finns blurs the lines between luxury beach house and boutique hotel.
CHECK-IN
My car is a time machine; and while Old Bar is less than a four-hour drive from Sydney, I've been transported back 40 years, to a simpler era when family holidays were all about sand, salt and sea. Strolls along a deserted beach. Body surfing in unpatrolled waves. Ice cream treats, and fending off voracious seagulls hellbent on fish and chips. While real estate prices may have boomed on the so-called Barrington Coast – an idyllic 191 kilometres stretching from Port Stephens to Crowdy Bay in lower mid-north NSW – nature still reigns on this spectacularly beautiful shoreline, largely due to several national parks restricting coastal development. And with a population of just over 6000 and one-road access from the highway, Old Bar retains a retro surfer charm, exemplified during the October long weekend beach festival when the town is inundated by VW Kombi enthusiasts. Finns at Old Bar is conveniently positioned on the main road, 150 metres from the beach and 200 metres from the shops – everything within walking and pram-pushing distance. The two-storey complex also overlooks a shady park where locals gather each morning for a coffee and chat at the town's coolest cafe, Buyi, perching on upturned milk crates under the shade of spreading gum trees.
THE LOOK
Formerly a guesthouse, Finns blurs the lines between luxury beach house and boutique hotel, its configuration flexible according to group size. On weekends, the seven-roomed property is usually rented out as an expansive holiday house accommodating up to 18 guests; while mid-week, the three one-bedroom studios, a two-bedroom suite and an upstairs self-contained two-bedroom apartment tend to be booked separately, with the services of a hotel conveniently located halfway between Sydney and Byron Bay. Extensively renovated during the lockdowns of 2020, the breezy, coastal chic decor reflects the location, as well as the surfing lifestyle of owners Kate and Vincent Primel, who also run the local Saltwater Surf School. Bespoke Nusa Indah surfboards designed by a family friend make statement wall decorations; while a full rack of surfboards is available for guests to use for free. The icing on the cake is the recent addition of a backyard magnesium plunge pool, heated to 27 degrees and surrounded by lush Balinese-style gardens.
THE ROOM
We're staying upstairs in the two-bedroom Finns Apartment – spacious and light-filled with an open-plan Smartstone kitchen, a large dining space, and a comfortable loungeroom replete with wall-mounted TV (with streaming services) and a woodburning heater for the occasional cold evening. An inviting front deck provides an al fresco entertainment space with a barbecue, outdoor dining setting and a lacey hammock; while a smaller back veranda provides access to a communal laundry and the swimming pool downstairs. The apartment sleeps six: the primary bedroom has a queen bed, plus a nook big enough for a portable cot should a baby be part of the guest equation; while the second bedroom has a double bed and another two singles tucked into a sunroom extension. There's only one bathroom, however (accessed via the primary as well as the hallway) – so be prepared to be patient during post-swim showers. In keeping with the homely feel of the property, the apartment is scattered with magazines and beachy coffee table books, consumed from the secluded comfort of a hanging egg chair.
FOOD + DRINK
While dining options mid-week are a little limited in Old Bar, you can grab a takeaway from the highly-regarded Sai Thai, feast on fish and chips or tacos at the beachside Blow Fish cafe, or pick up supplies from the supermarket for a barbecue on the front deck of Finns Apartment. On weekends, Flow Bar is a popular hang for cocktails and live music; while the Old Bar Tav does a reasonable parmi (albeit somewhat of a drive from the main strip). Further afield, Forster is abuzz with lively cafes and restaurants; while the chef from acclaimed Mediterranean restaurant Isola Riva located within the Cape Hawke Surf Club can be booked for a privately-catered dinner back home at Finns. We were also treated to a much-appreciated welcome cheese platter by owner Kate, who admits she likes to add little surprises for guests who stay more than two nights.
OUT + ABOUT
Old Bar beach warrants at least two visits a day; and when you're not swimming, beachcombing, sunbathing or building sandcastles, there's a terrific beachfront park for the kids to play in. Book a surfing lesson with Saltwater Surf School, with a choice of waves from Seal Rocks to Crowdy Head; while families will love the protected lagoon and rock pools at Wallabi Point just south of Old Bar. For landlubber exercise, hike the Headland Walking Track of Saltwater National Park, meandering through rainforest to a viewing platform to watch for migratory humpback whales that pass by from March to November. Further afield, take a scenic drive via Wingham in the Barrington Coast hinterland to admire Ellenborough Falls, the tallest single-drop waterfalls in NSW.
THE VERDICT
Finns at Old Bar offers big city comforts and a touch of sophistication in a sleepy community still very much stuck in the good old days. For a classic beach family getaway, it's a balm for the soul.
ESSENTIALS
Accommodation at Finns starts from $185 midweek for a studio apartment; while Finns Apartment is $385 a night (no minimum stay). You can also rent the whole property from $1250 a night midweek (minimum two-night stay) and $1500 on weekends (Friday and Saturday. 25 Old Bar Rd, Old Bar. Phone: 0421 180 821. See finnsatoldbar.com.au
HIGHLIGHT
The new backyard plunge pool at Finns is a welcome addition. We also love the daily housekeeping service – an unexpected bonus to an apartment stay.
LOWLIGHT
While bookings are easier to secure mid-week, most local restaurants are closed from Monday to Wednesday – so be prepared to dine in on those nights.
OUR RATING
★★★★
Julie Miller was a guest of Finns at Old Bar.
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