London’s abandoned underground tunnels are red-hot right now

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London’s abandoned underground tunnels are red-hot right now

By Steve McKenna

We’re caught up in the flow of people hurrying through Charing Cross underground station when Tommy, in his high-vis jacket, beckons us over to a metal door. “Come this way,” he says, doing a head count to ensure there are no stragglers.

Entering the doorway, we’re faced with a scene that looks familiar yet unusual. Escalators plunge down towards the platforms, like they do at Tube stations across London. But they’re empty and switched off. It feels eerily quiet and the hairs on the back of my neck stiffen. Then Tommy says to follow him and his colleague, Emily, down the sleeping steps.

Exploring abandoned sections of London’s Underground.

Exploring abandoned sections of London’s Underground.

The thriller screenwriter in me would love to tell you that this duo are leading us into peril (from which we’ll stage a daring escape), but they’re actually friendly guides for the London Transport Museum, whose immersive Hidden London tours invite you into secretive subterranean spaces usually out of bounds to the public.

We’re on the Charing Cross: Access All Areas tour, a 75-minute trawl through an abandoned part of the station that has become a red-hot filming location, with scores of movies and TV shows, from Spooks and Skyfall to Killing Eve and The Bourne Ultimatum, shot down here.

We walk along silent corridors and a pair of old platforms, where the terrazzo flooring, garishly green tiled walls, posters and signage have a surreal bygone quality. We’re told production crews often make tweaks, adding fake ads or replacing signs to pretend this is another station, or indeed another network (it doubled as the New York subway in the Marvel flick Morbius). It costs about $5000 an hour to hire this space out.

Skyfall was the biggest production,” says Tommy. “They were here for five months. There were 450 cast, crew, extras. They ended up using about 10 minutes of footage in the film.” We pause by a TV screen and watch a montage of clips. There’s Daniel Craig, as James Bond, chasing Javier Bardem’s Skyfall villain, Raoul Silva. At one point, 007 whooshes down past the (moving) escalators.

Matt Smith as Milo in a scene from Morbius.

Matt Smith as Milo in a scene from Morbius.Credit: Sony Pictures

“If you have a Hollywood budget we can turn them on,” says Emily. The bit where Bond leaps onto a moving Tube train was not shot here. Though the tracks are still live, dangerous stunts aren’t permitted for health and safety reasons.

We continue, discovering other tunnels behind other metal doors, including one that Craig dashed through in Skyfall. Emitting a metallic, musty scent, cluttered with nuts, bolts, pillars and railings, it takes us under Trafalgar Square. “It’s the nicest way to cross it,” says Emily. “No tourists or pigeons here.”

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In my imaginary screenplay, we’d escape by climbing up that shaft. But we conclude today’s tour the sensible way, taking the stairs out through the station and reemerging into the London daylight, our appetites whetted for future underground adventures.

We’re told other stations, such as Aldwych (Strand), Holborn, Moorgate, Baker Street, Clapham South and more, all have their own concealed passages, compelling histories and guides to show you around.

Daniel Craig as James Bond, underground in Skyfall.

Daniel Craig as James Bond, underground in Skyfall.Credit: United Artists

THE DETAILS

FLY
Emirates flies to London from Sydney and Melbourne via Dubai. See emirates.com

TOUR
The Charing Cross: Access All Areas tour runs about seven times a week for £45 ($87) or £42 for concessions. Children under 14 are not permitted, and 14 to 16-year-olds must be accompanied by an adult. To book this and other Hidden London tours, see ltmuseum.co.uk

The writer travelled as a guest of Visit Britain, see visitbritain.com

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