Kinchega National Park
Just one kilometre north of Menindee, on the Broken Hill Rd, there is a signposted left turn to Kinchega National Park which extends westwards from the Darling River, encompassing all of Lake Cawndilla and the southern half of Lake Menindee. The 44 000-ha park was created in 1967 from land that was previously a part of Kinchega station. It includes river red gum forests, black soil flood plains along the Darling River where kangaroos and emu flocks are frequently seen, the varied and colourful vegetation of the red sandhills and sand plains, and a series of tall lunettes (crescent-shaped dunes) on the eastern side of the lakes created by a combination of westerly winds and waves. These lunettes have proven a treasure trove of information about past environmental conditions and archaeological material, including remnants of Aboriginal culture (scarred trees where bark was stripped for canoes or shelter, middens, hearths, stone implements and mineralised bones) and extinct animals (giant kangaroos and wombats and Tasmanian tigers).
The large, saucer-shaped depressions of the overflow lakes are home to a variety of waterbirds including pelicans, spoonbills, egrets, cormorants and swans. The best time to see the wildlife is at dawn or dusk, not only because they venture out at these times but because the colours of the outback are quite remarkable.
The park contains several remnants from the pastoral days. By 1881, Kinchega covered one million acres and had 143 000 sheep. It was regularly visited by paddle steamers run by Samuel McCaughey (see entry on Leeton). Steam engines were being used to irrigate the paddocks as early as 1875 and the station prospered as a sheep run shepherded almost entirely by Aborigines. Kinchega was also one of the first properties to experiment with bores, striking water at 250 feet in 1879.
Kinchega woolshed is still standing. Here, six million sheep were shorn over the course of a century. At its peak in the 1880s it had stands for 26 blade shearers. The remains of the homestead and cemetery are nearby, as well as an old water regulator and trough used to furnish the homestead with water. The homestead, built of locally kilned bricks, probably in the 1850s, was used as an overseer's house and stockmen's quarters from 1872 to the 1940s.
The cemetery may contain the crew of the paddlesteamer Providence . In 1872 they apparently left Menindee in an intoxicated state and forgot to refill the boiler which blew up and killed them. It can still be seen where it was dragged from the water. Other sites of interest are the Cawndilla Channel and Menindee Lakes Lookout.
The park has 35 camping areas with limited facilities. Caravans can be accommodated but there are no powered sites. Bookings can also be made to stay at the old shearer's quarters. Morton Boolka picnic area is especially good for bird-watching and the woolshed picnic area has fresh water. There are numerous self-guided walks and, for a more comprehensive overview, the Lake Drive and the River Drive. The Homestead Loop is a shorter journey through the park's European historical remnants. There are guided tours in the school holidays and the park is ideal for photographers. For enquiries about bookings, fees and information pamphlets see the park's (or the town's) visitor's centre, or phone (08) 8088 5933.
Lake Pamamaroo and Main Weir
The lake system has become a tourist attraction and recreational facility for the people of Broken Hill and Menindee. 8 km north of Menindee on the Broken Hill Rd there is a signposted right turn to Lake Pamamaroo and the Main Weir. There are recreational facilities at both sites. A plaque on a tree, at the weir, indicates the location of the Burke and Wills campsite.
Copi Hollow
About 13 km north of Menindee on the Broken Hil Rd, just before you cross the interconnecting channel between Lake Menindee and Pamamaroo Lake, there is a signposted right turn on an all-weather road which leads to Copi Hollow: an artificially constructed body of water developed for speed boats, sailing, swimming and waterskiing. The inland speed championships are held here each year in mid-May. There is a well-shaded shoreline park with picnic facilities, amenities block and a caravan park.
To get there follow the Broken Hill Rd out of Menindee for 13 km then take the signposted right turn just before you cross the interconnecting channel between Lakes Menindee and Pamamaroo.
Sunset Strip
20 km north of Menindee, along the Broken Hill Rd, is a signposted turnoff, on the left, to Sunset Strip which is situated on the northern shore of Lake Menindee. Here we find a rather bizarre manifestation of the Australian quest for a holiday by the sea - a quest driven by the fact that the vast majority of the country's population is located along the coastal fringe. That has not stopped the people of Broken Hill. They gladly drive nearly 100 km to gaze out upon a muddy lake full of dead trees in a rather odd version of a waterfront resort. Instead of the overdone and often tasteless 'luxury villas' of the the coastal resorts there are inexpensive, kit-type holiday homes where corrugated iron is more common than brick. While the well-irrigated gardens are attractive, the exteriors of the houses are awful. If nothing else Sunset Strip certainly affords genuine insight into the priorities of Australians. Note that the water in Menindee Lake can get very cold and wind squalls can also produce dangerous waves.
Fishing in the Lakes
Not surprisingly perhaps Menindee is considered one of the finest freshwater fishing spots in NSW. Murray cod, golden perch, silver perch, European carp, crayfish and catfish are in abundant supply along the Darling and in the lakes.
If you are interested in a fishing or birdwatching trip in the area, phone Geoff Looney on (02) 8091 4437. A more comprehensive tour though the town's history, waterways and other natural sights is on offer from Burke & Wills Hire Boat Expeditions (02) 8091 4383.
History of the Town
Menindee itself has two historic trees - one marked by a survey team in 1882 and one in Yartla St to mark the height of the 1890 floods. At the Maidens Hotel, also in Yartla St, you used to be able to see the arrow Burke and Wills carved in the door post indicating the direction their journey would pursue. For many years the room the two men stayed in was preserved for visitors.
Also of some historic interest is the fact that John Cleary of Menindee started the first motorised postal service in NSW in 1910, although the contract stipulated that his lorry be followed by a coach-and-horses in case it broke down! When this system proved uneconomical he reverted to the horse-and-coach until allowed to use the lorry on its own in 1911.
The Heritage Trail
The visitors' centre can furnish you with a pamphlet which will lead you around the town's heritage trail: 19 sites with informative signposts that connect physical locations with their historic significance. A book is also for sale ($8.50) which provides a more comprehensive account of the sites.
Lastly, remember that many of the local roads are gravel and can be hazardous or impassable after wet weather. Phone (08) 8091 5155 for an up-to-date report on their condition.
Burke and Wills site at Pamamaroo Creek
Here on the Pamamaroo Creek is the site of the base camp of the 1860 Burke and Wills expedition. The expedition party included 15 men, 23 horse, 27 camels and 21 tons of stores. At the time of Burke's arrival in Menindee it was an outpost with no other settlements between here and the vast interior. On 19 October the small party of Burke, Wills, Brahe, King, Gray, McDonagh, Patton and Dost Mahomet, 15 horses and 16 camels left the Pamamaroo camp and headed north. The balance of the expedition party stayed for the next year.
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