Nine must-do highlights of Kandy, Sri Lanka
By Julia D’Orazio
The tooth
Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic.
Kandy is in Sri Lanka’s central province, surrounded by mountains and their tea plantations and host to many sacred Buddhist sites. The Sri Dalada Maligawa stands out in Kandy’s cityscape, its glistening gold rooftop a giveaway of its stature. Commonly referred to as the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, the UNESCO World Heritage site is considered one of the holiest places in the country. Under its golden canopy lies Sri Lanka’s most important Buddhist relic – the left canine tooth of Lord Buddha. Although the remnant is safeguarded behind ornamental doors, it hasn’t stopped thousands of locals and visitors from making the pilgrimage to worship Buddha. The temple is in the ancient Royal Palace of Kandy complex, housing other temples and museums, so allocate at least half a day to explore this revered site with a local guide. See sridaladamaligawa.lk
The dance
On fire with the dance.
Backflips, extravagant costumes, drumbeats, and shell horns – Kandyan dancing is one of the country’s most vivid art forms; both elaborate and gripping, and the dancers – they know how to flex. Watch them twirl and jump and jingle their traditional beads and silverwear, while the presence of real fire adds heat to the highly energised routines. Catch a one-hour Kandyan dance performance at the YMBA Hall from 5pm daily. Book ahead as performances usually sell out. See kandyandancing.com
The garden
Escape from the bustle to the tranquil Royal Botanic Gardens, Peradeniya. Located five kilometres from the city centre, the gardens date back to 1371. Once a pleasure garden for royalty, it wasn’t until 1843 that the exclusive grounds were declared a botanic garden under British rule. Today, they cover 60 hectares, with three sides bordered by the bend of the Mahaweli River. There are over 4000 exotic plants and to save the legwork exploring it all, hop on a buggy to see manicured lawns, pavilions, lookouts, palm avenues and plant houses, with plenty of time to smell the flowers. See botanicgardens.gov.lk
Part of the Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens.Credit: iStock
The temple
Bahirawakanda – also known as the Sri Maha Bodhi Viharaya – is famed for its giant white hilltop statue of Lord Buddha, which towers over 25 metres and can be seen from most vantage points in Kandy. Follow the path to enlightenment; climb the stairs to Buddha’s head for panoramic views of the ancient kingdom. Visit after sundown to avoid the crowds and witness the city lights under a starry sky. See lovesrilanka.org/bahirawakanda-temple
The hotel
Rest like royalty with a stay at the Mahaweli Reach Hotel. The five-star hotel sits along its namesake river’s banks and is surrounded by lush forest. Fusing traditional Kandyan design and colonial architecture, the historic hotel’s 112 rooms and suites boast old-world charm and modern comfort. Prioritise a splash in the hillside residences’ pool and soak up the scenery. See mahaweli.com
The dish
Kandy street food.Credit: iStock
Call it Sri Lanka and South India’s version of falafel – dal vada or dhal vade is a popular snack made from chickpeas, ginger, curry leaves, shallots and red chillies. It is deep-fried and eaten as is – hot or cold – maybe with some chutney added. There are many variations of the golden ball, with different spices added for a desired tang. They’re commonly sold by street food vendors, at sporting games and at rest stops for loose change, usually under a dollar a piece.
The hike
The Pekoe Trail is no walk in the park – it extends 300 kilometres, winding through the Central Highlands and lush tea plantations. If you don’t have the time or stamina to conquer the entire rocky road, stage one (of 22) departs from the Ceylon Tea Museum with the 12.7-kilometre moderately challenging route finishing in the village, Galaha. There are spectacular 360-degree views of Kandy along the ridgeline and you’ll pass one of the locations for Indian Jones: The Temple of Doom en route, so pack the fedora. See thepekoetrailsrilanka.com
The lake
The ancient city’s centrepiece is Kandy Lake or Kiri Muhuda, which translates to “Sea of Milk”. The artificial lake was built in 1807 by King Sri Wickrama Rajasinghe, the last ruler of the Kingdom of Kandy. The calming scene features an island with a pavilion – home for the king’s rumoured harem – shrouded by verdant gardens and soaring palms. Never mind the encircling ring-road commotion – do what the locals do and enjoy a leisurely stroll around the lake.
One more thing…
Sri Lanka offers one of the world’s most scenic train routes, with its 1561-kilometre rail network passing gorges, many tea plantations, rivers, waterfalls and villages. It may be a long and winding road, but the journey is worth it – sit shoulder-to-shoulder in a locomotive and enjoy life in the slow lane.
The writer was a guest of Sri Lanka Tourism Promotion Bureau.
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