Siena, Italy travel guide and things to do: Nine highlights

To fully appreciate the centuries-old rivalry between Siena's 17 contrade (districts), plan your trip around one of the city's two annual Palios (July 2 and August 16). This frenetic bareback horse race around the Piazza del Campo lasts less than two minutes but the honour of winning brings year-long pride to the triumphant district. Even if you don't see the race itself, the event is bookmarked by a frenzy of blessings, masses, processions and pageantry.

THE ONE GELATERIA

Located a cone's throw from the imposing Basilica of San Domenico on the outskirts of the historic centre, Gelateria Il Masgalano has been honing its sorbet sorcery for more than 25 years. Famous for its affable service and use of fresh natural ingredients, its ever-changing roster of flavours ranges from purist pleasers such as pistachio and lemon to more adventurous concoctions like almond cream with bitter orange. There will be a queue but, trust us, it's worth the wait.

THE ONE ATTRACTION

No matter how many Italian churches you've traipsed around, you'll still be utterly spellbound by Siena Cathedral. Built in the 13th century, its distinctive striped marble exterior is decorated with a motley crew of gargoyles and saints. Inside it's even more spectacular – a riot of striped black-and-white marble columns, ornate stone sculptures and 56 intricate mosaic floor panels. Don't miss the colourful frescoes in the Piccolomini Library and the stunning Carrara marble pulpit by Nicola Pisano. See operaduomo.siena.it/en

THE ONE GIFT

Looking for an unusual souvenir? How about an edible medieval memento? Siena is known for its vast range of traditional sweets, many of which date back to the Middle Ages. You'll find the best selection at Nannini, where you can stock up on delicacies including panforte, a chewy, dense cake packed with almonds, spices and candied fruit, and cavallucci, a traditional Christmas biscuit containing candied orange peel and anise. See en.nanninidolciecaffe.com

THE ONE VIEW

Sometimes the best views have to be earned. To reach the striking white travertine balcony on top of the 87-metre Torre del Mangia, you'll need to ascend a claustrophobic spiral staircase of more than 400 stone steps. But it's worth it. The balcony offers captivating views of the Piazza del Campo, the city's medieval jumble of terracotta tiled roofs and the sigh-inducing Tuscan countryside beyond. Top tip: visit the ticket office when it opens to reserve a timeslot at sunset.

THE ONE RESTAURANT

Tucked away in a narrow alleyway between two of the historic centre's main pedestrian thoroughfares, Ristorante Guido is an old-school charmer – a warren of atmospheric brick-vaulted dining rooms lined with photos of its celebrity clientele (everyone from Daniel Craig to Pavarotti). Go for a traditional Tuscan speciality, such as the homemade pappardelle with boar ragu, paired with a local montepulciano. Be sure to leave room for the chef's special tiramisu – it's divine. See www.ristoranteguido.com

THE ONE MUSEUM

Don't be deceived by its modest entrance opposite Siena Cathedral, Santa Maria della Scala is a sprawling seven-floor labyrinth of artistic and archaeological treasures. Highlights include an extraordinary set of 15th-century frescoes depicting its origins as a hospital treating pilgrims and abandoned children, an eerily atmospheric private chapel used by Saint Catherine and an expansive wing of Etruscan and Roman artifacts. See santamariadellascala.com

THE ONE ESPRESSO BAR

Given its location on a busy thoroughfare near Piazza del Campo, you'd be forgiven for dismissing Torrefazione Fiorella as a potential tourist trap. Until, that is, you see the steady stream of locals filing in and out for their daily caffeine fix. The espressos, cappuccinos and hot chocolates are all top notch, as is the diet-derailing range of pastries. Do as the Italians do – drink standing up and don't linger. See caffefiorella.it/en/

ONE MORE THING ...

Need a break from the clamour and crowds of the historic centre? Stroll downhill from Piazza del Campo and you'll discover the lesser-touristed Piazza del Mercato. Lined with several excellent-value alfresco eateries (think €9 pastas), it's a tranquil respite from the tourist crush around the main sites.

Rob McFarland was a guest of Globus' eight-day "Veni, Vidi, Vici" tour of Umbria and Tuscany, which includes three nights in Siena. See globus.com.au