Silo Art Trail, Victoria: Grainlander steam train to an outback art highlight

It's not every day you meet the model for one of the mighty murals painted on former grain silos in western Victoria. It's even less likely when it's a dog. But here I am in tiny Nullawil (population 92) in the Wimmera-Mallee region, and the kelpie who's depicted in enormous size upon the local silo is sitting obediently below it, next to a model of both the silos and a steam train.

If that sounds complicated, get this – there's also a real steam train standing below the silo, and that's how I've arrived here from Melbourne.

The mighty red-and-black locomotive, City of Melbourne, was built in Glasgow in 1951 and is hauling the Grainlander, a collection of heritage carriages named to mark the destination. The art rising above it is part of the Silo Art Trail, and was painted by the artist known as Smug. Depicting a local farmer in checked shirt with his loyal kelpie next to him, the vibrant work makes me smile just to see it.

Nullawil's is the last of several silos I've visited on the Grainlander rail tour run by 707 Operations, a volunteer-run organisation which stages regular train excursions into the Victorian countryside. We boarded on a Friday evening at Melbourne's busy Southern Cross Station, where station staff and commuters alike were delighted to hear that modern structure echo to the whistle of a steam locomotive.

Given the historic nature of the carriages, the sleeping accommodation is an eclectic assortment of options. I've scored a compartment in the fanciest carriage: a sleeper car from the former Southern Aurora, which ran between Melbourne and Sydney from 1962. It's a comfortable space, with two berths which fold down into a lounge. There's also an en suite bathroom with toilet, shower and basin. A supper of wine and cheese gives me a chance to chat with the other passengers, a friendly bunch of people of varied ages and backgrounds.

Dawn is breaking over eucalypts as I breakfast on quiche and croissants, sourced from a Ballarat bakery as we passed through that city overnight. Without a dining car, the Grainlander staff serve finger food for onboard meals in two comfortable lounge cars. A few hours later, lunch is taken at The Juke, a restaurant within the Royal Hotel at the Mallee town of Sea Lake. It's an impressive set menu of pumpkin soup, a chicken brioche roll, a mini-sausage roll and a sticky date muffin.

We leave the rails at this point for a coach tour along the Silo Art Trail, beginning with a side-trip to salty Lake Tyrrell, which gave the nearby town its name. We head south to see five silos through the afternoon, commencing with Sea Lake's own vast mural of a First Nations girl dreaming of the stars. Further silos at Lascelles, Rosebery and Brim feature rural themes, including more depictions of local residents. Finally, at sunset, we're served a glass of sparkling wine as we take in a vivid rendering of Wergaia and Wotjobaluk elders upon the silos at Sheep Hills.

It seems fitting that the day should end at a country pub. Our train is parked for the night at Wycheproof Station, so we dine at the town's Terminus Hotel. As a group we're tired but cheerful and conversation is lively as the chicken parmas, steaks and seafood make their way from the kitchen.