Sparkling wine is just one of the highlights of Champagne, France
By Ellen Connolly
Often overshadowed by the more famous Burgundy and Bordeaux wine regions, this picturesque province 45 minutes from Paris has much to offer, including champagne tastings, cooking classes, a luxury spa and Michelin-star restaurants.
The tasting
In the fields at Moët & Chandon.
Top of anyone’s list should be a tasting at one or two of the large champagne houses, such as Moët & Chandon or Taittinger. Their tours are a fascinating insight into Roman times, taking visitors to an underground network of caves, tunnels and hidden rooms.
If time permits, it’s worth visiting some smaller and lesser-known champagne houses, too, as they offer a more intimate and personable experience. At Leclerc Briant, a leader in biodynamic champagne, learn about its Cuvee Abyss, a champagne that is aged 60 metres under the sea in the Atlantic Ocean for 15 months. The barnacles on the bottle are proof of its extraordinary maturing process. For wine lovers who want to sample champagnes from a variety of local growers, book a tasting at Club Tresors de Champagne. See taittinger.com/en; clubtresorsdechampagne.com/en/
The museum
Inside Pressoria.
Housed in a former winepress, Pressoria explores and celebrates champagne through a unique immersive experience. Visitors can smell, taste, listen, watch and feel their way through champagne’s journey from the vine to the bottle. A monolithic chalk sculpture is a nod to the enormous influence of chalk mining on the region, while the sensory centre invites guests to enjoy the scent of champagne blossoms, which bloom on the vine before the grapes are fully formed. The contemporary-designed museum, which opened in 2021, also boasts beautiful art installations, a virtual wine harvest and a bar and tasting room that overlooks a vineyard. See pressoria.com
The cooking school
School’s in at Au Piano des Chef.
Learn how to recreate classic French fare (like blanquette de veau and Paris-Brest) at Au Piano des Chef. Chef Eric Geoffrey offers private and group cooking classes at his school in Reims. Kids classes are also on offer, thanks to a special child-friendly workbench and miniature stools. Our class began with a visit to a bustling food market in Reims, where we stocked up on ingredients, including white asparagus, organic chicken and an array of local cheeses. Back at the school, it was then time to create a three-course lunch, which was matched with some delightful local champagnes. See aupianodeschefs.com
The wellness spa
Relax in the pool at Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa.
Located within the luxury Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa, this wellness facility commands one of the world’s most picturesque views. Perched above a vineyard, it boasts nine treatment rooms, a yoga studio, a sauna, a hammam, two large pools and a spa. A highlight of the vast spa menu is the custom facials, which are in high demand. Day guests are welcome and have access to all facilities, including a 25-metre heated indoor pool with floor-to-ceiling windows. After your treatment, lie back on one of the chaise longues with a glass of champagne and be mesmerised by the magnificent vista before you. See royalchampagne.com
The restaurant
Cheese selection at La Table Kobus.
You know you’re at a local favourite when the dining room is humming with the sound of French accents. The Michelin-star La Table Kobus in Epernay is an elegant brasserie with a strong focus on sourcing from local farmers. Have Google Translate on hand for the French-only menu and be impressed with sophisticated chicken, steak, lamb and seafood dishes. The cheese plate showcases the best from the region, and the wine list is comprehensive with some great value local wines and champagne. Worth noting: there is no corkage fee during the week, and it’s only $20 on weekends. Reservations are recommended, especially between May and September. See latablekobus.com
The view
Balloon with a view.
For a bird’s-eye view of the UNESCO-listed region of Champagne, Le Ballon d’Epernay (Epernay Balloon) on a clear day is the place to be. The giant balloon is tethered to the ground near Avenue de Champagne and takes passengers 150 metres above the ground. The spectacular 360-degree view is best enjoyed, I think, with a glass of champagne in hand. Reservations are not necessary for the 15-minute ride. Adult tickets are €16 ($26), with a surcharge for champagne and children €9. Go at sunset if possible. See ballon-epernay.com
The sacred gravesite
Abbey of Saint Pierre d’Hautviller, burial site of Dom Perignon.
A trip to this region wouldn’t be complete without paying homage to the father of champagne, Dom Perignon, who famously said: “Come quick. I’m tasting the stars.” The wine-making Benedictine monk, who died in 1715, is buried in a beautiful 12th-century church next to the Abbey of Saint Pierre d’Hautviller. Despite his vast contribution to the world of champagne, there is no grand monument to honour him. Instead, his grave is marked with a simple stone plaque on the church’s floor in front of the altar, which reads: Hic Jacet Dom Petrus Perignon (Here lies Dom Perignon of the Peter). See tourisme-hautvillers.com
The bike ride
A country cycle.
In the picturesque surroundings of Hautvillers are a host of small vineyards, which can be explored on a bicycle tour. Private e-bike tours zigzag through charming cobblestone villages and past vineyards where workers tend to vines and local children wave excitedly. The off-the-beaten-track experience includes a tasting of champagnes from local growers and an opportunity to talk to passionate winemakers. Suitable for all ages, the e-bikes make it easy to tackle the hilly countryside. Plus, all tours stop at a bar or winery for a chance to rehydrate with a champagne tasting. Half and full-day tours are available. See explore-grandest.com
One more thing
Tasting and a biscuit – Au 36.
Don’t leave the region without sampling the region’s famed gastronomic delights, including biscuits de Reims, a pink biscuit traditionally served with champagne. At Au 36, you’ll discover an array of other local culinary gems, including white blood sausage wrapped in puff pastry, Champenois meatloaf, local ham, and raspberry mousse macaroons. Paired with a flight of up to six champagnes, it’s a unique and memorable culinary experience. Afterwards, stock up on speciality foods, artisan jewellery and clothing from local designers at the café’s store across the street. Reserve a table on the sunny terrace to enjoy it most. See au36.net
Ellen Connolly travelled with the assistance of Agence Régionale du Tourisme Grand Est
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