The creators of South Park bought a restaurant and it’s impossible to get in

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The creators of South Park bought a restaurant and it’s impossible to get in

By Liz Bond

Opening in suburban Lakewood, near Denver, in 1974, Casa Bonita was 5202 square metres of Barbie-pink Spanish Mission-style themed restaurant that two generations of Denver’s youngest and most easily influenced adored.

Locals took out-of-town visitors to the “exotic” outlet for Mexican food served cafeteria-style in a “Mexican village” with a more-than-nine-metre indoor waterfall with costumed high divers.

Casa Bonita is celebrating its 50th birthday this week.

Casa Bonita is celebrating its 50th birthday this week.Credit: Getty Images

Back then, Denver Post food critic Barry Morrison summed up the restaurant-cum-fun park thus “Casa Bonita’s forte is definitely atmosphere.” There were food poisoning rumours. Soon it became known as Casa NoEata. The running joke was always eat before.

But Casa Bonita, which turns 50 this week, was about something other than the food. For predominantly suburban white kids it was the unbridled chaos of cave divers, fake gunfights, replica Mexican villages, puppet shows, Black Bart’s Cave and the sopaipillas – a traditional, leavened bread dessert with pour-your-own honey. There was something for everyone – strolling mariachi bands, a puppet theatre and a gorilla with a sheriff in hot pursuit. Irreplaceable, lifelong memories were made.

Then, in 2003, when South Park creators Matt Stone and Trey Parker devoted an entire episode to their favourite spot for birthdays, the world discovered Lakewood’s fabled family restaurant. Stone and Parker’s childhood memories motivated South Park’s Cartman to kidnap Butters and dive into Casa Bonita’s deep pool of make-believe.

By then, the chlorine and honey had turned the carpet into a rock-hard mess – much like the restaurant itself. Reeking of chlorine and crumbling from years of neglect, the pandemic brought the magic to an abrupt end.

South Park and The Book Of Mormon creators Matt Stone (L) and Trey Parker in Melbourne for the opening of The Book of Mormon in 2017.

South Park and The Book Of Mormon creators Matt Stone (L) and Trey Parker in Melbourne for the opening of The Book of Mormon in 2017.Credit: Eddie Jim

But the two local guys armed with Book of Mormon millions and television syndication fortunes came to the rescue. Like nearly every other kid from Denver’s suburbs, Casa Bonita held a special place in Stone and Parker’s hearts. In 2020, the pair took more than a walk down memory lane. They bought the site and took up the challenge to make it just like before, “only better”.

The renovation had all the hallmarks of a modern-day fairytale: local-boys-made-good save a landmark that guaranteed the Mile High City’s Gen X a trip down memory lane. They pledged to “Change Nothing. Improve Everything”. The spend was rumoured to be more than $US40 ($61 million). Stone and Parker said it was more like “infinity dollars”.

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Local powerhouse chef Dana “Loca” Rodriguez was charged with redesigning the menu. She revealed basic salsa, chips and eight main options (and the all-important sopaipillas) for $US39.99 and $US24.99 for kids at dinner. Alcohol and other desserts are extra. Cliffside dining is an additional $US10 a person but promises a great view of the show and table service.

Cliff divers are part of the entertainment inside.

Cliff divers are part of the entertainment inside.Credit: Getty Images

Although I tried to eat at Casa Bonita during a recent Denver visit I, like nearly 100,000 others who signed up for an email list, am still waiting for my golden ticket. Even before it reopened a virtual queue of 15,000 had signed up. While in Denver, I spoke with everyone I could about Casa Bonita. No one had been. Many are waiting patiently for that special email invitation to dine. The restaurant is yet to open seven days a week.

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Reviews from those that have visited are mixed. “This is everything it should have been for the last 20 years,” wrote one visitor. “With the remodel, they kept all of the quirks and charm but enhanced everything....especially the food”.

But another was less impressed, “…the food isn’t that great (tastes mass-produced), but it’s definitely passable – you’re really there for the rest of it anyway”.

At launch, restaurant management announced that servers would receive $US30 (twice their original hourly rate) so there would be no tipping. But the staff insisted tips were necessary because of the reduced hours. They also wanted health care and improved communication with management. You could say there was a Mexican standoff.

A taco salad at Casa Bonita.

A taco salad at Casa Bonita.Credit: Getty Images

Casa Bonita has remained mysterious since its relaunch. Is it a flop, a fantastic re-invention, or is it really keweeeeeel?

The details

Casa Bonita is currently open from Tuesday to Saturday for dinner and Thursday to Sunday for lunch. Diners must book in advance by signing up to an email waiting list. See casabonitadenver.com

The writer travelled as a guest of Colorado Tourism Office and Visit Denver.

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