The must-do highlights of Paris in three days
By Divya Bala
The recipe for a Parisian degustation – discovering the city in a series of small portions – is a recipe most could master: eat, explore, and repeat. In 72 hours, a newcomer to the city can experience its full essence with just a little forward planning.
The following itinerary is not a race against the clock, but rather a celebration of the art of wandering à la Francais, inspired by the French term, ‘flàner’. Indeed, Parisians have perfected the ‘art de vivre’, (the art of living) placing a premium on leisurely and hedonistic pursuits.
To ensure success of this itinerary, come prepared with a reliable map – whether digital or traditional – as well as an umbrella, waterproof shoes or a jacket if the weather seems threatening. Opt for a Navigo pass (Paris’ transport card) for seamless transportation throughout the city and, Allez-y! We’re off.
Saint Germain’s Cafe de Flore is perfect for a blow-out lunch.Credit: iStock
DAY ONE
Morning
Begin where the city itself was born, on the Ile de la Cité, surrounded by the Seine. Start with breakfast at the picturesque Au Vieux Paris d’Arcole. Then walk through the oldest-running bird and flower market in the world, Marché Aux Fleurs et Oiseaux to arrive at the foot of Notre Dame Cathedral. Don’t miss Paris Point Zero, the true centre point of the city, depicted by a discreet star within a circle on the forecourt in front of the Notre Dame (most do miss it).
Head to the tip of the island to Les Vedettes du Pont Neuf, you’ll pass the medieval-looking Conciergerie, a former prison that once housed Marie Antoinette. Walk down from Pont Neuf to Les Vedettes du Pont Neuf to pick up one of Paris’ iconic Bateaux Mouches river boats (pre-booking is necessary). A one-hour cruise will take you up the Seine and face to face with some of the city’s most beautiful monuments including the Louvre, the Musee d’Orsay and the Eiffel Tour as well as some of the most picturesque of the Seine’s 37 bridges, returning you back to where you boarded below Pont Neuf. A sightseeing tour offers an observational toe-dip into the city along with a sense of how the city is laid out.
A cruise along the Seine from Pont Neuf is a great way to get a lay of the land.Credit: Britus
Once back at Pont Neuf, if you fancy a coffee or a fresh juice, head over the bridge to the historic Shakespeare & Co bookshop, Paris’ left bank literary institution (established in 1919) that housed leading writers of the Lost Generation including Ernest Hemingway, F Scott Fitzgerald and Gertrude Stein and browse the handwritten notes left by patrons in the upstairs annex.
Afternoon
Walk up Rue Saint Severin to explore the Latin Quartier. Ensure you look to your left whenever passing a big boulevard for a glimpse of the Pantheon in the distance. Continue along Rue Saint-Andres des Arts to arrive at the heart of the left bank, Saint Germain. Stop around here for a seafood lunch at Huguette, grab a quick sandwich at Smith’s Bakery or a blowout meal at the Cafe de Flore. My personal favourite, neighbourhood bistro Comptoir des Saints-Peres, offers delicious, lighter French fare and people-watching that is just as good. If it’s oyster season, continue west and go to Les Antiquaires. Walk it off with an art injection at the Musee d’Orsay.
Evening
Marvel at the top of the steps at Sacre Coeur before enjoying dinner at Montmartre.Credit: iStock
Take a twilight walk around Luxembourg gardens and have dinner at the historic traditional French bistro, Polidor, established in 1845, a former favourite of poet Arthur Rimbaud and Hemingway that combines warm, intricate and artful original decor with affordable meals and a well-curated wine list. Or, if you’re happy to travel across town, go to the Sacre Coeur, enjoy the expansive view of Paris from the stairs, then wander down to LouLou Montmartre for dinner. Once finished, continue your walk down towards Place de Clichy through one of Paris’ oldest and most beautiful districts, lined in cobblestones.
DAY TWO
Morning
The Centre Pompidou is a must-see for art buffs.Credit: iStock
Begin your day with a flakey, buttery croissant at the Rue Rambuteau outpost of Chez Meunier. The bakery won best croissant in Paris for 2023. Wander towards the Seine, through the historic art neighbourhood of Beaubourg where the Centre Pompidou sits. The facade of the building itself is considered a pinnacle of arts and culture in Europe. If you’re so inclined, you can either spend hours visiting the exhibitions including the 4th floor collections of 20th century masterpieces from the likes of Matisse, Yves Klein and Kandinsky. Or simply explore the lobby and take the plastic tube escalators to the top of the building for some of the most beautiful panoramic views of the city. Next door, the Atelier Brancusi, the former studio of architect Constantin Brancusi is a shorter, but no less enriching experience, if preferred.
Afternoon
Prepare to line up: the city’s best falafel resides at L’As du Falafel.Credit: iStock
Walk over to the nearby Marais district to Miznon for some Israeli street food meets French fare (the boeuf bourguignon pita and the charred cauliflower are a must). Or go next door for the city’s best falafel at L’As du Falafel – but be prepared to wait in line. Should you prefer more classic French fare in a sit-down environment, try Au Petit Fer Au Cheval. The horseshoe-shaped bar features a small terrace area as well as discreet seating behind the bar and a classic, French menu such as steak tartare, fillet mignon or duck confit. Whatever you choose, I recommend a glass of wine with lunch and a tipsy gander through the nearby independent boutiques and the BHV department store.
Evening
Wander across the Bastille monument, down the bustling Rue Faubourg Saint Antoine to traditional restaurant, Chez Paul. A neighbourhood institution, this bistro has been in the same spot since 1900. Today the bistro exudes an atmosphere that is both lively and genuine, serving French comfort food in a warm, glowing rabbit-warren of rooms. Be sure to book ahead. After dinner, walk over to the nearby Septime Cave or Bu. for natural wines in relaxed, road-side settings.
DAY THREE
Morning
Pull up a chair at the fountain at Palais Royal gardens.Credit: iStock
Grab a coffee from Verlet, a roastery that brews its own coffee and offers the most beautiful beans, coffee accessories and confit fruits to take home as gifts. It is Paris’ oldest roastery. Either drink it at the semicircle window upstairs or take it to the nearby Palais Royal gardens to pull up one of the iron chairs and sit by a fountain. I’d suggest taking a newspaper or book if you’re on your own. Walk across Rue de Rivoli to the Tuileries gardens and wander the forecourt of the Louvre. The museum is a must-visit for art enthusiasts. Go to the Le Meurice patisserie by Fredric Grolet for another life-changing croissant. If the weather is good, take some lovely things away to eat it in the Tuileries opposite.
Afternoon
Walk up the Champs Elysee to the Arc de Triomphe. If you do get a chance to go to the top, watch the chaos of the entirely unbridled, lawless traffic below – although you can see this from the road level too. If you fancy, take in an exhibition at the Palais de Tokyo art museum and if not, just take in a glass of wine at its wine bar, Bambini. On the Seine side of the Palais de Tokyo, you can have a breathtaking view of the Eiffel Tower that grows as you move towards it. Fans of Last Tango In Paris or Inception may like to wander across Pont Bir-Hakeim for some cinematic nostalgia and a stunning view of the tower.
Evening
Have a martini at Harry’s Bar before taking in a ballet or opera show (pre-booking is essential) at the palatial Palais Garnier. Then see where the night takes you. Sleep peacefully in the knowledge that you’ve seen some of the most exquisite sights of one of the world’s most beautiful cities.
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