This is one of the Americas’ most deliciously contentious dishes

The dish

Gallo pinto, Costa Rica

Plate up

Prepare yourself – we are heading into dangerous territory. Again. Gallo pinto is the national dish of Costa Rica. But, it’s also the national dish of Nicaragua, and if you ask any resident of either country who invented it… well, you can guess what will happen. But anyway, we will get into the origin story soon. First, let’s talk about the dish itself, possibly the tastiest variant of the rice-and-beans combo found throughout much of the Americas.

To make gallo pinto, red or black beans are cooked on high heat in their own liquid, mashed slightly, and then fried with rice and other ingredients that can include capsicum, coriander, onions, chilli and garlic – and if you’re in Costa Rica, a local seasoning called salsa lizano. This is a classic breakfast dish in Central America, a stomach-filling day-starter.

First serve

Most people agree on the “how” of gallo pinto – that is, how it originated. Rice was introduced to Spain by the Moors; the Spanish, in turn, brought this staple to the Americas with its conquistadors in the 16th century. Beans, meanwhile, had been cultivated in Central America since long before that. By the 18th century, African slaves had been brought to the Americas, and they combined these two cheap, filling ingredients to form a staple dish. Where that dish officially became gallo pinto (meaning “speckled rooster”, after the look of the dish), with coriander and capsicum and the like, is an enduring point of controversy.

Order there

For one of the true classics, call into Soda Tapia in San Jose, Costa Rica (Calle 42, San Francisco, San Jose).