This underrated town offers the best of Queensland
By Andrew Bain
Underwater museums, laneway restaurants and island day trips. This underrated town offers the best of Queensland.
THE ISLAND
Exploring Magnetic Island and the Great Barrier Reef. Credit: Melissa Findley
Just 20 minutes by passenger ferry from Townsville’s Breakwater Terminal, Yunbenun/Magnetic Island is the ultimate in desirable city suburbs. Locals commute across the water to the city, while travellers head in the other direction, making for this island that’s about 80 per cent covered by national park and other reserves. Head to the north-west corner for Maggie’s best beaches, and to Nelly Bay and Horseshoe Bay for its finest restaurants. See thisismagneticisland.com.au
THE HOTEL
Rambutan Townsville.
Though it began life as a glampacking hostel, Rambutan has matured into one of Townsville’s best stays. Spread over three levels, it’s defined by its open-air rooftop pool and bar, which is ringed with cabanas, banquettes and sun loungers. Got the troupe of kids in tow? Deluxe rooms sleep up to six. See rambutantownsville.com.au
THE PARK
As the name on the tin suggests, Jezzine Barracks began life in the late 19th century as a military barracks. Transformed almost a decade ago into coastal parkland, it now features a wooden coastal boardwalk, an amphitheatre, the Army Museum of North Queensland and more than 30 public artworks commemorating the First Nations and military history of the Kissing Point site.
THE LANE
Inspired by Melbourne laneways, City Lane brings together a tight collection of quality eating and drinking venues. Stalwarts Donna Bionda, The Courtyard and Shaw and Co have been sitting among the exposed brickwork since the lane opened in 2014, and there’s now also the likes of a wholefood and espresso cafe and the TapHouse, pouring craft beer from across Australia. See citylane.com.au
THE GALLERY
The Museum of Underwater Art.
Head offshore to find Townsville’s most fascinating art gallery. The Museum of Underwater Art (MOUA) is a burgeoning collection of ocean sculptures spread across two marine sites. Ocean Siren, a statue that changes colour according to live water-temperature data from the Great Barrier Reef, is visible from the waterfront Strand; or sail two hours off the coast to John Brewer Reef to dive or snorkel at Coral Greenhouse, a 158-tonne installation featuring the figures of 20 ‘reef guardians’ slowly transforming into marine ecosystems. Two more installations are in the planning, most likely at Yunbenun/Magnetic Island and Palm Island. See moua.com.au
THE VIEW
There’s little argument about Townsville’s best view, with the isolated, pink-tinged granite monolith of Castle Hill standing sphinx-like at the city centre’s very edge. Drive to its top, or hike the popular Cudtheringa or Goat tracks to the summit lookout, staring out over the city, sea and Yunbenun/Magnetic Island. Sunrise and sunset are prime time on the hill, which doubles as a natural fitness centre for city residents.
THE BREWERY
Lager has replaced letters inside Townsville’s historic post office, with the landmark 1889 building now home to Townsville Brewing Company. The craft brewer produces and pours about 10 beers beneath the post office clocktower, which was dismantled during World War II to avoid detection from Japanese bombers, and rebuilt in 1963. Sample the tropical-style beers in sight of the brewing tanks in the stately bar, or grab a meal in Restaurant 1889. See townsvillebrewery.com
THE CYCLING TOUR
Behind Townsville, a line of mountains rises like a screen between the coast and the outback. Atop these mountains, Paluma Range National Park forms the southernmost section of Queensland’s Wet Tropics World Heritage Area. The range’s tops are surprisingly flat, making an e-bike day trip with NQ Cycle Journeys an appealing way to explore the thick pelt of rainforest. Rides head to the shores of Paluma Dam and pause for walks into waterfalls and the stunning amphitheatre of boulders at the well-hidden Rock Garden. See nqcyclejourneys.com.au
THE WILDLIFE ENCOUNTER
Beyond Paluma, the Queensland landscape undergoes a costume change, with rainforest yielding to sparse, dry bush. Paradoxically, this arid scene contains one of Australia’s great water delights. Once better known for tin mining, Running River is one of the surest places in the country to sight platypus, and nearby Hidden Valley Cabins – which also led the charge as Australia’s first 100 per cent carbon-neutral resort – runs evening tours to view these elusive monotremes. See hiddenvalleycabins.com.au
ONE MORE THING
Townsville’s big-ticket attraction, Reef HQ – the world’s largest living coral reef aquarium – is closed as it undergoes a rebuild. It’s expected to reopen in 2026.
Andrew Bain travelled courtesy of Tourism & Events Queensland.
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