Zurich, Switzerland, travel guide and things to do: Nine highlights

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Zurich, Switzerland, travel guide and things to do: Nine highlights

By Brian Johnston
Zurich is so much more than cute clocks, spires and steeples and lovely walks.

Zurich is so much more than cute clocks, spires and steeples and lovely walks.Credit: iStock

THE ONE WALK

Limmatquai runs along the Limmat River's east bank through central Zurich and ends at the lake. An early morning walk or jog rewards you with fine views of old-town spires and gables reflected in the river, and illuminated in the sun. Then cut across the last bridge and continue down the west shore of Lake Zurich along a string of parks and promenades. See zuerich.com

THE ONE LANDMARK

Zurich's severe Reformation cathedral is scraped to bare essentials. Head across the river instead to the medieval, green-steeple Fraumunster to admire the stunning modern stained glass produced by Marc Chagall when in his 80s. Its glorious ruby and turquoise glow shows the modernist Russian-French artist had lost none of his dazzling talent in old age. See fraumuenster.ch

THE ONE ATTRACTION

Zurich Zoo, one of Europe's best zoos, keeps the whole family entranced with its elephant and ape houses, daily penguin parade, aquarium, open-air aviary and rare creatures such as red pandas, Indian lions and snow leopards. A greenhouse that recreates a Madagascan rainforest showcases lemurs, brightly-coloured frogs and chameleons. The zoo also has playgrounds and a family-friendly restaurant. See zoo.ch

THE ONE MUSEUM

Credit: iStock

The Swiss National Museum, housed in an ornate gingerbread mansion, invites an informative wander through Swiss history, the nation's perceived image and national identity, and its contemporary issues. Its staid but marvellous collection of knick-knackery includes furniture, silverware, doll's houses, antique globes, clocks and much more, with some exhibits created specifically for children. See landesmuseum.ch

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THE ONE NEIGHBOURHOOD

Ever-changing Zurich West was once a decaying industrial area on the wrong side of the tracks but is now a buzzing, multi-ethic and trendy inner-city district. Its former factories house designer hotels, art galleries, chic eateries and eclectic boutiques showcasing Swiss brands such as Erfolg for outre handbags and t-shirts, Freitag for hip bags made from recycled tarpaulin, and Einzigart for furniture. See zuerich.com

THE ONE HOTEL

Located in Zurich West and a convenient walk from the main train station, 25hours Hotel Zurich Langstrasse features quirky industrial design and has a good restaurant and buzzing, neon-lit bar. Guestrooms are large with spacious glass shower cubes and nice touches such as a colouring book and crayons, and a Polaroid camera you can borrow for your retro walk around Zurich. See 25hours-hotels.com

THE ONE RESTAURANT

Haus Hiltl, founded in 1898 as the Abstinence Cafe, has morphed into one of Zurich's hippest eateries without abandoning its vegetarianism and commitment to sustainability and social responsibility. Head either to the buffet or a la carte restaurant and get healthy with eggplant tartare, organic smoked tofu, mushroom stroganoff and tongue-tingling Indian-influenced dishes. DJs spin mood music on weekends as cocktails flow. See hiltl.ch

THE ONE CAFE

Over-the-top Cafe 1842 erupts in baroque effervescence inside a dour 14th-century building. You have a courtyard and several gilded and velvet-draped rooms in which to relax; the best is decorated with frescoes of parrots and palm fronds. The patisseries are just as opulent, and whipped cream is piled into alpine peaks atop hot chocolate. See cafe1842.ch

THE ONE EXCURSION

Credit: iStock

Einsiedeln, an hour south of Zurich, is Switzerland's most prominent pilgrim destination thanks to its Black Madonna, housed in the gigantic abbey's church, which has an interior that is a seemingly un-Swiss riot of eye-popping baroque excess. Hiking trails network the lovely surrounding hills. In winter, the town hosts a wonderful Christmas market. See myswitzerland.com

ONE MORE THING

If you're using Zurich as a starting point to explore surrounding regions then use a Swiss Travel Pass, which offers unlimited travel on trains, lake steamers, postal coaches, urban public transport and some mountain trains, plus admission to more than 500 museums. You'll enjoy efficient, stress-free travel on some of the world's most scenic railways. See swisstravelsystem.com

The writer travelled as a guest of Switzerland Tourism and Swiss Travel System.

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