Former motel in ‘the new Byron’ gets upgrade and celebrity restaurant
The hotel
The Lodge, Bellingen
Check-in
It’s been said in recent times that Bellingen is the new Byron Bay (no idea why everywhere has to be “the new” something, but here we are). Not that it has great beaches or surfing, being situated as it is inland on the river, halfway between Sydney and Brisbane.
Three Blue Ducks team have taken over the restaurant at The Lodge in Bellingen.
But it does have a surprisingly good restaurant scene featuring many escapees from the big smoke, and Three Blue Ducks is the latest to join the party. It has taken over the restaurant at The Lodge, a former motel just a few minutes’ drive up Waterfall Way from the bohemian township.
The look
On a hill surrounded by lush, river-fed pastures and with a view over the valley to the Great Dividing Range, this is a bucolic setting. As you drive in past reception, there’s a mid-sized pool area with hot tub, sun loungers and a bar with pizza oven.
The refreshed pool area has a hot tub, sun loungers, a bar and pizza oven.
The restaurant is behind but for now you’re focused on the wonderful sense of sweet-scented escape, with the verdant landscape barely interrupted by The Lodge’s low-level buildings.
The room
There’s no denying The Lodge’s more humble origins but a clever renovation has created 30 comfortable rooms with wood panelling, nicely styled bedrooms and bathrooms, and coffee machines. There’s a good choice of queen/king rooms, family rooms with bunk beds and two air-conditioned glamping tents with barbecue and fire pit.
The Mountain Retreat has a full-sized kitchen, dining area and lounge plus a lovely terrace overlooking the mountains.
We are staying in the Mountain Retreat, which despite its name is not set apart from the standard rooms but extends out much further and has its own terrace. It has two bedrooms, two bathrooms (one with a bath); a spacious living and dining room with vaulted ceiling, leather sofas and a huge wooden table that would be great for group dinners, plus a fully equipped kitchen and laundry. You can easily imagine wedding parties staying here, with the Mountain Retreat as a private gathering place for guests.
Food + drink
It’s easy to see why this location appealed to the Three Blue Ducks (though the original crew of three has grown to six). Their relaxed style of locally sourced and sustainable cooking works perfectly in these laidback Northern Rivers surrounds – it feels a little like the baby brother to their huge Byron property, The Farm. Asian influences dominate, from dumplings and bao buns to prawn toast and Szechuan pepper squid. Mark La Brooy, one of the Ducks, naturally recommends the Dirty Duck, sticky with lemon, lime and sour plums – it’s excellent. But vegetarians and vegans are also well catered to, and much of the menu is dairy-free too.
The menu features locally sourced and sustainably produced food with Asian influences.
Breakfast, best enjoyed on the terrace (weather permitting), is a welcome break from the usual suspects and includes fried eggs with sriracha and Thai-style sausage or spanner-crab scramble.
Out + about
Bellingen is pretty, with well-preserved buildings and a good selection of shops including the sophisticated Hyde for homewares and clothing from labels such as Bassike. Black Bear Cafe has great local coffee and all day breakfast, or grab some pastries from Hearthfire sourdough bakery. Dinner options include Fiume and Bruno’s, both recommended by the Good Food Guide, while the Bellingen Brewery excels in cocktails and wood-fired pizza.
Dorrigo National Park is a beautiful backdrop to The Lodge.
There is a lovely beach at Sawtell (and a fab bar called Que Sera) but if you’re short on time, head up to Dorrigo National Park for expansive views from the Skywalk or take one of several hiking trails through the rainforest – some lead to spectacular waterfalls.
The verdict
An easy weekend getaway with direct flights from Sydney and Melbourne to Coffs Harbour Airport (half an hour’s drive away), Bellingen is a peaceful and rejuvenating break from the city, while The Lodge offers superior accommodation and food.
Essentials
Superior queen rooms from $275/night. The Mountain View Retreat sleeps up to four adults and two children from $695/night.
1381 Waterfall Way, Bellingen, NSW; (02) 6655 1599; thelodgebellingen.com.au
Our rating out of five
★★★★
The writer stayed as a guest of The Lodge and Three Blue Ducks.
Highlight
The land of milk and honey setting is blissful for a restorative weekend away.
Lowlight
Despite 30 years in Australia, I’m still too uptight for barefoot people in the centre of town.
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