Tumbling Waters retreat, Stanwell Tops review: Dawn steals the show

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This was published 13 years ago

Tumbling Waters retreat, Stanwell Tops review: Dawn steals the show

Good looking ... the view from Tumbling Waters.

Good looking ... the view from Tumbling Waters.

Plush rooms, excellent food and spectacular views can make you feel like a movie star, writes Peter Vincent.

SUNRISE isn't a time that couples serious about their weekend R&R will usually contemplate; not those without children anyway. But that's what time my partner is woken on the first morning of our weekend away. When I say "woken", I mean shoved awake - by me.

My reason was the rare chance to witness a sunrise over the ocean, visible from our bed at Tumbling Waters retreat, perched on the cliff-top high above Stanwell Park, south of Sydney. "Wake up, babe! Wake up! Sun's coming up." She lifts her head briefly but the reply is unprintable.

Anyone watching the sun slowly peek over a vast, glassy sea while wrapped in fresh, plump hotel linen feels like a movie star. The real star at Tumbling Waters, however, is the mesmerising ocean view, framed to the north by the hang-gliding spot atop Bald Hill (at the southern edge of the Royal National Park), to the south by the lush canopy of Mount Mitchell and directly below us by Stanwell Park beach.

Tumbling Waters opened for business in 2002 but has recently been improved by the addition of a restaurant. The site has quite a history. It was a lookout when real estate pioneer Henry Halloran developed Stanwell Tops 80 years ago as a retreat for Sydney escapees.

In the years before current owners, Sonja Keller and Andrew Bergmann, bought the 1.21 hectare property, it fell into disrepair, although the view was still sought after by visitors to the Garden of Peace - a communal meditation centre on the site.

Fast forward, though, and Tumbling Waters is a boutique couples' getaway, with dining and massage services. It's also handy to local pursuits, such as bushwalking and horse riding, and the excellent beaches of Wollongong's northern suburbs are within reach.

It's also little wonder that Tumbling Waters is garnering a reputation as a tranquil and spectacular wedding reception venue, with four suites and a bath-house (with steam room and spa) providing accommodation for a bridal party.

Tumbling Waters offers a terrific four-course "private dining experience" as an optional extra for all guests. Ours was a genuine fine-dining experience lasting three hours. It began with canapes: a thin mushroom broth and a decent slice of duck breast topped with walnut and date relish. The next dish was a perfectly cooked risotto topped with scallops and fennel threads and served with a saffron sauce - the highlight of the meal. The main was lamb with asparagus and a zucchini, pepper and eggplant roulade; a tad subtle for my palate, although light and beautifully presented. Dessert was superb - a selection of handmade chocolates, a chocolate fondant served with chantilly cream, a lemon meringue tart and a triangle of spun sugar. Coffee and port are part of the deal, which at $125 a head is on the pricey side but worth it.

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Our second day is spent exploring the rugged and beautiful coast leading to Wollongong, with a

tasty lunch at the Scarborough Hotel - where bench seats near the cliff edge afford yet another gorgeous ocean view.

Back at Tumbling Waters, we settle in for some serious downtime before heading home. Although our room was as lovely as you'd expect for a newish boutique getaway - with marble floors, neutral decor, walk-in shower , deep bath, soft cotton robes and a handy kitchen - we were surprised there was nowhere to put our clothes. Not all five suites at Tumbling Waters are without an adequate chest of drawers or wardrobe, but ours was.

The writer was a guest of Tumbling Waters and NSW Tourism.

Trip notes

Where

Tumbling Waters, at the end of Stonehaven Road, Stanwell Tops (02) 4294 1666, twr.com.au

Getting there

Take the Princes Highway, continue past Waterfall and take the Stanwell Park exit on to Lawrence Hargrave Drive. Just before the descent to Bald Hill, on your right is Stonehaven Drive.

How much Suites are $575 a night at weekends; $475 Monday to Thursday.

Style statement Modern design with self-contained convenience.

Perfect for Couples.

Don't forget Your towel - there's a pool, a spa and a beach nearby.

A shame about The lack of a wardrobe. Que?

Kudos For a meal that topped off a luxury experience.

Take the kids? No. This retreat is for adults.

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