This was published 5 years ago
Victoria: Things to see and do in King Valley (and surrounds)
Vineyards in King Valley, Victoria.Credit: Catherine Sutherland
I WANT TO DO A SCENIC ROAD TRIP
The savviest of weekend Harley riders and road trip enthusiasts are onto it – the King Valley and surrounds is one of the great Australian country rides or drives. Leaving Melbourne, you could go the Hume Highway and in through Wangaratta. But you can also do a more scenic trip, heading through the Yarra Valley, glorious in itself, and on to Mansfield, a cute, lively community at the foot of the Victorian Alps. Either way takes three and a bit hours but the latter will take you along the spectacular Mansfield-Whitfield Road, with its curves revealing panoramas of eucalypt forest and mountain backdrops. Stop at the classic country pub, the Tolmie Tavern (proud slogan: "Where nothing ever happens") for a beer on the fir tree-flanked deck. See tolmietavern.com.au
I AM KEEN TO SEE WHERE BUSHRANGERS ROAMED
The grandparents of Australia's most notorious folk hero, Ned Kelly, lived in the King Valley. It's also where Harry Power, a prolific hold-up robber, taught a teenage Kelly the ropes. (Kelly country, the area around Glenrowan, is around 50 kilometres away.) In the mid-1800s, Power had a hideout from where he could observe the movement of troopers in the valley. It's within the Powers Lookout State Reserve, between Tolmie and Whitfield. Bump along a gravel road into the bush, until you find a cliff-edge clearing (with loo and picnic tables). Follow the signs to a walking track with a series of steep ladders leading to the most northerly point of a rocky outcrop, from where you get Power's view of the upper King Valley that had him declare, "It's there ye'll see the finest sights in the world ay!" See parkweb.vic.gov.au
I WANT TO HIT THE CELLAR DOORS (AND A DISTILLERY AND A BREWERY TOO)
Dal Zotto, Pizzini, Politini … there's a reason why the local wine makers sound so continental: they are and so are their products. Nowhere else in Australia (perhaps nowhere else in the world outside Italy) will you find such a concentration of Italian varietals in the one place as the King Valley: sangiovese, arneis, barbera, pinot grigio, nebbiolo and of course, prosecco are in high supply here. The King Valley is the latter's originator in Australia. Add in the warm hospitality for which Italians are renowned, and there are no more welcoming cellar doors. Had enough wine? Hurdle Creek Still is a small batch gin distillery near Milawa. And there is no shortage of breweries: King River Brewing right in the valley, the Malt Shed at Wangaratta and Social Bandit at Mansfield. See winesofthekingvalley.com.au ; hurdlecreekstill.com.au ; kingriverbrewing.com.au ; maltshedbrewery.com.au ; socialbandit.com.au
I WANT TO VISIT THE FARM GATES
Howes Creek Farm is a storybook pretty stop. With thoroughly photogenic Berkshire pigs enjoying the mud and sunshine, it's a place both kids and adults love. Owners Jackie and Matt Merchant run a farm gate shop and cafe with homemade, locally sourced produce including their own pork pies, nitrate free bacon and sausages made to Matt's great uncle's recipe – still sold in Harrod's. There are free farm tours every Saturday, breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea is served with local wines and beer, and sausage making, bacon smoking and other cooking classes. For fare of a vegetarian kind, there's the Blue Ox berry farm at Oxley, and King Valley Walnuts has a self-serve stall selling one-kilo bags roadside. Along the Mansfield-Whitfield Road, you might find similarly unmanned stalls selling jams, flowers, eggs, fruit and vegies, an honesty box at the ready. See www.facebook.com/howescreekfarm/ ; milawagourmet.com.au
I WANT TO TIME MY VISIT WITH A LOCAL FESTIVAL
Blame the Italian heritage and the inherent sense of hospitality that goes with it. But the region loves to throw a party, welcoming guests to La Dolce Vita Wine & Food Festival annually in the third weekend of November. In October, the Dal Zotto family hosts the Victorian Salami Festival, featuring a lively three-course alfresco lunch and the crowning of Il Salame Perfetto (The Perfect Salami). And the King Valley is also part of Feast High Country Festival, in its seventh year in 2019, and on in May. See winesofthekingvalley.com.au/events/la-dolce-vita-2019/ ; dalzotto.com.au ; feasthighcountry.com.au
I WANT A LONG LUNCH WITH VIEWS
Handsome corrugated iron kiln houses dot the landscape here, remnants of the tobacco drying days. There's one in the paddock out back of the Dal Zotto cellar door alongside shady trees and a deck with uninterrupted countryside views, perfect for lingering over the Trattoria's menu of pizza and classic cuisine. Pop a bottle of prosecco and say hi to brothers Michael and Christian Dal Zotto, who bought the winery from their parents in 2017. Chrismont offers a more formal setting in an elevated position affording a view to rival Harry Power's. The architecturally designed, award-winning property is sleek, contemporary and light-filled, with an open fire. They serve Chrismont, La Zona and Riserva wines accompanying delicious Italian food. See dalzotto.com.au ; chrismont.com.au
I'M A CHEESE-FIEND, WHERE SHOULD I GO?
If you love smelly artisan Australian cheese, you can thank David and Anne Brown. In 1988, they founded the Milawa Cheese Company in an old butter factory and began developing cheeses of European pungency and flavour when no one else in the country was. A must-stop for cheese lovers? More like a pilgrimage. And for the faithful, the Browns supply a fab set-up, where you can taste their 17 varieties that are handmade using local milks. See milawacheese.com.au
I WILL NEED TO WORK OFF ALL THE CHEESE. WHERE CAN I GET ACTIVE?
The King Valley's pretty back roads and byways lend themselves perfectly to bike riding, whether ambling along between wineries, or donning the lycra and stretching out. Opportunities for horse riding, fishing and hiking abound and serene Lake William Hovell is a great place for canoeing and bushwalking. On weekdays you might have the lake, formed by a dam across the King River, all to yourself. See visitkingvalley.com.au/the-great-outdoors
I'LL WANT A GOOD COFFEE. WHERE ARE THE BEST SPOTS?
You can get a fantastic cross section of local foods at the Mansfield Produce Store, with its browsable shelves burgeoning with interesting wines, baked goods and more. It's also a place that prides itself on coffee. Home baked cakes make it a great stop for morning tea. Nearby, the Mansfield Coffee Merchant roasts its own beans and serves a number of single origins alongside a great breakfast menu. The beautifully fitted out cafe in what was a motorbike shop features a huge, roaring fire, a cosy option on brisk autumn days. See theproducestore.com.au ; mansfieldcoffeemerchant.com.au
I'VE GOT THE CARAVAN IN TOW. WHERE DO I PUT IT?
Gentle Annie Caravan & Camping Reserve spans both sides of the King River, connected by the Gentle Annie Bridge, and is loved for the immediate access to the river. With both powered lots for the caravan and spots for tents, the picturesque, award-winning, 60-year-old reserve even welcomes dogs. Those looking for an easy walk back to the van for a post-long-lunch nap might choose the Valley View Caravan Park, which is across the road from Dal Zotto and a short walk down the road from the legendary gastropub, the Mountain View Hotel. It's got a camp kitchen and a kids' playground. See gentleanniecaravanpark.com.au ; valleyviewcaravanpark.com.au ; mvhotel.com.au
I WANT THE FACTS
POPULATION
1800 (4800 in Mansfield and 28,000 for Wangaratta)
LOCATION
The King Valley is in north-east Victoria. It's about 280 kilometres from Melbourne and 460 kilometres from Canberra. It stretches from the Alpine National Park, due north to the Rural City of Wangaratta.
CLIMATE
The area gets warm to hot summers, mild, sunny autumn days with cooler nights, becoming chilly towards June. June to September sees snow on the peaks and often cold, crisp days and nights. October through to December finds stunning spring days.
HERITAGE
Italian immigrants came to the King Valley after World War II, attracted by work on the Snowy hydro and tobacco farms. When demand for tobacco dried up, the Mediterranean farmers, noting the conditions were right for grape growing, decided to stay and establish vineyards, mostly supplying to the mighty Brown Brothers. In time, they began to make their own wines. The result is this enclave of superstar independents specialising in Italian and cool climate varietals.
TOUR
A number of operators provide food and wine tours in the region, either by car, bus or bicycle. Many are based in Milawa and Oxley. If you're having a tipple and no one wants to be the designated driver (the police are serious about drink-driving in the valley), King Valley Winery Tours offer a range of services including day trips exploring up to a dozen wineries. See kingvalleywinerytours.com.au
COOK
Katrina Pizzini runs the famous A Tavola cooking school with a calendar of hands-on classes running throughout the year. See pizzini.com.au
STAY
A number of wineries offer on-site cottage accommodation, including Politini Wines and Pizzini. Lusso KV is a converted – and seriously extended – kiln house in the heart of Whitfield. A full kitchen, barbecue deck and sleeping for eight make it a great base for groups of friends keen to explore the valley. See politiniwines.com.au ; lussokv.com.au
MORE
Julietta Jameson visited the King Valley as a guest of Tourism North East and Lusso KV.
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